stan
stan GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/14/08 6:24 a.m.

If I use PB Blaster on exhaust bolts and nuts, is there any chance of a problem when the exhaust gets used again? Or should I try to clean the exhaust before using it?

thanks, Stan

John Brown
John Brown GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
10/14/08 6:30 a.m.

Not really, I do not recall PB being exceptionally unstable. the propellant is the really combustable part. To verify do a match test in a fire bucket (spray PB Blaster in bucket with lid, throw match, if it goes BOOM put lid on ;) )

jrw1621
jrw1621 Reader
10/14/08 6:47 a.m.

I expect no issue with fire or flame but there may be some lingering smell when the area heats up again. The smell will be sort term and only last a day or few days.

SoloSonett
SoloSonett Reader
10/14/08 7:41 a.m.

PB is the ONLY penetrant to use ... if it doesn't work ( rare, but here in the Rust Belt.. it happens) then use a blue wrench !

IMHO, I used it on Saab Sonett exhaust bolts, 30 years old. Spray em, tap em with a light hammer, repeat a couple days... and then removed them with a standard wrench!

And then re-used the same nuts and studs for years!

oldopelguy
oldopelguy HalfDork
10/14/08 8:23 a.m.

Kroil works as much better than PB as PB is better than WD-40. Best stuff I've found yet.

stan
stan GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/14/08 8:48 a.m.
SoloSonett wrote: PB is the ONLY penetrant to use ... if it doesn't work ( rare, but here in the Rust Belt.. it happens) then use a blue wrench ! IMHO, I used it on Saab Sonett exhaust bolts, 30 years old. Spray em, tap em with a light hammer, repeat a couple days... and then removed them with a standard wrench! And then re-used the same nuts and studs for years!

I agree 100%. I just took off the exhaust on my '86 CRX. And the worst nuts/bolts I can find are always on the exhaust...

Stan

Osterkraut
Osterkraut Reader
10/14/08 9:30 a.m.
SoloSonett wrote: PB is the ONLY penetrant to use ... if it doesn't work ( rare, but here in the Rust Belt.. it happens) then use a blue wrench ! IMHO, I used it on Saab Sonett exhaust bolts, 30 years old. Spray em, tap em with a light hammer, repeat a couple days... and then removed them with a standard wrench! And then re-used the same nuts and studs for years!

This comes out before the blue wrench (it's a bit pricey).

noisycricket
noisycricket New Reader
10/14/08 12:43 p.m.

Torch off the bolts, replace with new.

Exhaust bolts that come off with a little penetrating oil, you guys are funny!

I don't know if it's available to the public, but I was a PB Believer until I started using Kimball Midwest's penetrating oil. It's awesome. And it smells like cherries!

stan
stan GRM+ Memberand Dork
10/14/08 12:51 p.m.

So what's the best?

Kimball's, PB or Kroil?

donalson
donalson SuperDork
10/14/08 1:00 p.m.

i don't work on northern cars... just stuff sitting near the ocean...

start a regular PB blast session a few days before you'll be working on the car (or at least the night before) realy helps in my experience... thankfuly like i mentioned that hasn't involved road salted cars

CarKid1989
CarKid1989 Reader
10/14/08 7:53 p.m.

I love kimbal midwest penetrating lube. Everytime i buy a new car i use a can of that stuff instantly on every visible nut/ bolt. Finished one can on the escort and starting my second.

EVERYTHING comes apart!

Carson
Carson Reader
10/14/08 9:08 p.m.
oldopelguy wrote: Kroil works as much better than PB as PB is better than WD-40. Best stuff I've found yet.

+1 Yessir.

Carson
Carson Reader
10/14/08 9:14 p.m.

Also, Kroil the Oil that Creeps, smells like factories. I'm only 22 but I imagine Kroil is what the 1950s smelled like. It is an instantly recognizable and 100% not environmentally friendly.

foxtrapper
foxtrapper SuperDork
10/15/08 5:06 a.m.

The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil .............. Average load .. Price per fluid ounce

None ............................. 516 pounds ......$0.00

WD-40 .......................... 238 pounds ..... $0.25

PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds ..... $0.35

Liquid Wrench........... ... 127 pounds ..... $0.21

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ..... $0.75

ATF-Acetone 50/05 mix.. 53 pounds ..... $0.10

John Brown
John Brown GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
10/15/08 6:08 a.m.
donalson wrote: i don't work on northern cars... just stuff sitting near the ocean... start a regular PB blast session a few days before you'll be working on the car (or at least the night before) realy helps in my experience... thankfuly like i mentioned that hasn't involved road salted cars

LIAR!!!! You did the brakes on a northern van this year...

Jax2A
Jax2A HalfDork
10/15/08 6:51 a.m.
stan wrote: So what's the best? Kimball's, PB or Kroil?

Never used Kimball's, but I thought PB was great until I tried Kroil. Kroil is fantastic stuff.

Jack
Jack SuperDork
10/15/08 9:30 a.m.
Carson wrote: Also, Kroil the Oil that Creeps, smells like factories. I'm only 22 but I imagine Kroil is what the 1950s smelled like. It is an instantly recognizable and 100% not environmentally friendly.

Which is likely why it works so well. I believe Kroil is the best of the best also.

Jack

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