Nothing like hydraulic surge brakes to make backing up a horrible experience.
Nothing like hydraulic surge brakes to make backing up a horrible experience.
So basically I should try and keep the bulldog collar and electrify the brakes...?
OK, I was just informed this trailer is rigid mounted... wtf... That throws a wrench into things. How in the hell do I fix that, aside from buying a leaf setup?
damn, this is turning into a lot more work than planned...
You don't need suspension on a car trailer.
Rigid mounted makes it sound like it was a agriculture related frame to start with.....that and the framework does look alot like our water trailer's....
Rigid mounted axles pull okay when loaded, but they jump around empty. I would try to do a grassroots version of this type air suspension so you could lower the trailer for loading and air up and go. http://www.timbren.com/air-suspensions.htm
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PveSi--AnQo
seriously? I've driven rigid trailers before and it wasn't very fun.
additional input?
In reply to 81cpcamaro:
Great Idea there, you have the perfect start for doing that golfduke....
How would that set up on a tandem trailer though? Just 4x airbags over the axle, uncoupled?
golfduke wrote: seriously? I've driven rigid trailers before and it wasn't very fun.
Why?
golfduke wrote: How would that set up on a tandem trailer though? Just 4x airbags over the axle, uncoupled?
Good question. Here is one shown on a triple axle trailer, should be able to do a similar setup for a two axle. http://kelderman.com/triple_axle_trailer_air_suspension_torsion_suspension
Zomby Woof wrote:golfduke wrote: seriously? I've driven rigid trailers before and it wasn't very fun.Why?
excessive 'Tail wagging the dog' syndrome...
81cpcamaro wrote:golfduke wrote: How would that set up on a tandem trailer though? Just 4x airbags over the axle, uncoupled?Good question. Here is one shown on a triple axle trailer, should be able to do a similar setup for a two axle. http://kelderman.com/triple_axle_trailer_air_suspension_torsion_suspension
Oh that's awesome. Airbags cost about $200 for everyhting, so it'd be almost cheaper to do it this way than a conventional leaf spring design.
I might actually attempt to build a triaxle air ride 30ft open hauler at some point....
The more I think this through, the more this might turn out great...
We'll see once I get the trailer tonight though.
golfduke wrote:Zomby Woof wrote:excessive 'Tail wagging the dog' syndrome...golfduke wrote: seriously? I've driven rigid trailers before and it wasn't very fun.Why?
Has nothing to do with lack of suspension. You had a mechanical, or design problem
I towed alot of miles on a rigid homebuild car trailer. Terrible empty but loaded it was great. Once delivered a car down to Va and bought something cheap off ebay to tow home just so I didnt have to go empty.
Only time it ever wagged the dog was when I loaded it wrong.
My first trailer was a tandem axle rigid design. It was only a 66" x 132" deck for a small race car. I could tow it handily at 70 mph with a Pontiac 6000. Making sure about load placement is critical to stability on any trailer, suspended or not.
Well, its home. I have to say it towed pretty nice. Really smooth track, although it liked jumping around quite a bit. I might run it like it is this season and re-evaluate at the end of the year. For free though, it's actually in pretty good sorts. I am happy.
More advice please-
Here are a few more detailed pics-
My dilemma-
I want electric brakes. First, the surge setup on here is not functioning. Second, it's an old style without any reverse override. The issue is that the axles are definitely homegrown and they don't follow a typical 4 or 5 bolt pattern. It uses a 12" drum which I can use, but I need to somehow find a way to affix it to this...
Aside from chopping everything up, I'm at a loss on how to do that.
My personal opinion... I detest beavertail trailers. It makes the trailer effectively smaller depending on what you're hauling. Just make longer ramps to make the angle more approachable.
I made 3' ramps using heavy channel and welded some 2x2 angle in between the runners with the angle up like treads. On the rear of the trailer there was a channel, so I welded some heavy angle on the front of the ramps and they just set in place. For ramp storage, I welded some hangers on the side and just hung them.
On my current trailer I plan on welding on a 1" tube across the back spaced out a little. On the front of the ramps I'll put sections of 1.25" tube that slides over the 1". That way they can adjust side to side for different track widths including lawn tractors, motorcycles, 4-wheelers, etc. For storage, just use a strap and a pin and store them up at an angle.
A bad photo, but you can see the ramps hanging on the side of the trailer.
I've been there, done that. You could sink allot of money into that and they not be fully happy.
I would sell it and buy another one. There are better ones out there at great prices. Be patient when searching.
golfduke wrote: More advice please-
First, RE: electric brakes and bolt pattern; most spindles and backing plates are relatively universal. That is to say, there are about 10 different types, 5 of which are incredibly common. You can take an assembly into any trailer place and say, "Here's what I have, I want electric brakes and a 5x4.5" bolt pattern." (which, by the way is the more common trailer pattern, but any of the 5x4.75 or 5x5 are common and wheel selection would be super easy.) Also, depending on your tow vehicle, you only need brakes on one axle. Usually I would put brakes on both only above about 8000 gvw. That means you can invest in electric brakes for the front axle and just get a replacement hub for the rear axle so that your bolt patterns match. That will save you a ton.
Second: RE: suspension. What I might do is get some really cheap junkyard leaves and mounts. Weld the mounts inside the frame at a point that gives you about 2" of travel between the axle tubes and frame. Then put a 1/2" square of rubber on the top of the tube as a bumpstop. This way, when its empty you have a suspension. When its loaded, you don't.
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