Pinion leaking on Dodge van

Hey guys,

SO a few weeks ago I started a thread on maybe buying a newer crew cab pickup truck. I have sort of decided to maybe hold off on that for a little while because I don't really like payments. I decided before the weekend that I was going to wait,but now I am not sure after our camping trip. Yesterday after coming home from the Patriots awesome victory over Wally's Jets at Gillete Stadium I got back to the campground after an hours drive,and smelled gear oil.

Got up this morning and noticed the back door of the van had spots of oil all over the place,and it looks like the pinion seal is leaking. Now I am not so sure I want to hold on to this old van,but it probably is the best idea. How hard is it to replace this part for someone that has never done this and has no idea of the inner workings on differentials other than a basic knowledge of how the do what they do? Any special tools? Worth farming out? Also any recommendations of a good muffler to put on this beast as it looks the factory one is rotted out as well?

2001 Dodge 2500 Ram Wagon passenger van by the way. It may have a 1-ton suspension under it though as it has 8-lug wheels and when I bought the front end parts last year I had to get the parts for a 1-ton 3500 based on the VIN.

Chris

Go Bruins!!!!!

I don't know if that has a crush sleeve, but I think it does. You'll need a new one and a way to measure the bearing pre-load (inch-pound torque wrench I think). You'll also need a freaking HUGE breaker bar and or a HUGE impact wrench to get the pinion nut off.
That nut has a nigh torque rating (IIRC 200+ ft. lbs) and it's going to be tough to remove.

If I was still at the dealer, I would charge 1hr and the part cost and send you on your way. I use my 3/8 impact for the driveshaft bolts, remove driveshaft, get appropriate 1/2" drive socket and "killer" impact, remove pinion nut, remove flange. Remove the seal with a hammer and screwdriver. Clean it all up real good. Emory paper the yoke very lightly. Prior to installing seal, I would put anaerobic sealer on the outside of the seal and put some thread sealer on the pinion splines. Install the seal with a hammer carefully, never used a seal driver. Reinstall the pinion flange and just impacted the old nut on. Just never made it much tighter, rotationally, then when it came off. Reinstall driveshaft. Check fluid level and top off as necessary. Return vehicle to customer.

Now, the GM training I took always said to measure the rotating torque and when you put it back together, never go more then an additional 10 in/lbs., but I never did that.

BTW, reason I used all the extra stuff, COMEBACKS. All it takes is ONE to piss you off. The anaerobic sealer really helps as it seems the diff seal bore is anything but true. The thread sealer I saw in a TSB once for fluid wicking up the pinion shaft through the splines and making you think you had a pinion seal leak. So to minimize MY inconvenience, I did all that extra for free.

I agree with Ranger50...quick, easy job.

Ranger50 wrote: I use my 3/8 impact for the driveshaft bolts, remove driveshaft, get appropriate 1/2" drive socket and "killer" impact, remove pinion nut, remove flange. Remove the seal with a hammer and screwdriver. Clean it all up real good. Emory paper the yoke very lightly. Prior to installing seal, I would put anaerobic sealer on the outside of the seal and put some thread sealer on the pinion splines. Install the seal with a hammer carefully, never used a seal driver. Reinstall the pinion flange and just impacted the old nut on. Just never made it much tighter, rotationally, then when it came off. Reinstall driveshaft. Check fluid level and top off as necessary.

I just changed one on a 2006 Dakota with a 9.25" rear. I read all the fancy stuff in the FSM, then did what he did! If it doesn't hold up; that's my excuse to take it apart and swap my 3.55 gears for 4.11's. ;-)