Layers seem to help. I had about 7 heavy layers on my bike's gas tank (from multiple color changes) and it pealed off great. I could see how only light coats could be a pain.
Layers seem to help. I had about 7 heavy layers on my bike's gas tank (from multiple color changes) and it pealed off great. I could see how only light coats could be a pain.
How flexible is this stuff?
An obsession with current crop of Spitfire owners seem to be the rear leaf spring 'buttons', little spacers
between the leaves to reduce friction/noise.
In 45 years of Spitfire-hood, I've never ever replaced one, but it's like an obsession with some folks.
Anyway, rather than stinkin' buttons, one might carefully place some graphite or suitable Moly grease between the leaves where they touch and slide, but then you'd get dirt and dust in there, and have messy lubricant leakage.
(I know, on British car, how could you tell what was leaking;)
Leather spring gaithers would work to seal everything, but I can't seem to find any of those for a Spitfire. ;)
It occurred to me that one could PlastiDip the whole end of the spring to seal everything up.
Spitfire leaf is tranverse, center section is the spring mount, so you would want to leave just that part bare.
Thoughts?
Anyone try something like this?
I've used PlastiDip before but not on auto body, parts or wheels.
How would it hold up on the bottoms of plastic rocker panels and rear fender/ bumper valance? Think S197 and annoying stone chips. Only would be used on bottoms, out of normal sight line looking from above.
Stone chips are a killin' this car in DD use. They even have a silver, should be close enough w/ my Satin Silver.
fasted58 wrote: I've used PlastiDip before but not on auto body, parts or wheels. How would it hold up on the bottoms of plastic rocker panels and rear fender/ bumper valance? Think S197 and annoying stone chips. Only would be used on bottoms, out of normal sight line looking from above. Stone chips are a killin' this car in DD use. They even have a silver, should be close enough w/ my Satin Silver.
Ford Escorts of the mid 90's had a thick clear coating applied along the lower 6" of the body panels to prevent chips and such. Must be tough stuff, it's still there on my '93 Wagon.
I haven't dipped any wheels but I hear the heat from the brakes can cause it to harden and make it difficult if not impossible to peel. DYC sells "Dip Remover" spray that apparently makes it possible to pressure wash old dip right off of whatever surface. Haven't tried it though, but they have a youtube video of it that looks like it works as advertised.
fasted58 wrote: How would it hold up on the bottoms of plastic rocker panels and rear fender/ bumper valance? Think S197 and annoying stone chips. Only would be used on bottoms, out of normal sight line looking from above. Stone chips are a killin' this car in DD use. They even have a silver, should be close enough w/ my Satin Silver.
It doesn't hold up very well my lower air dam. I've resprayed that area twice in 2 years now. This is on a car that sees 2000 miles a year, some track days, and is garaged the rest of the time.
Used up a can of the stuff on my gas tank straps. I am hoping for a more clean padding for the tank.
I used some white to try and cover over some windows into a production area that was getting too much sun.
One can, at $25 is not enough to give even coverage of a 4x2' window. The stuff sprays like crap out of the can. Where I tried to separate the film from the masking tape, it was very hard to not pull the film off the window; required several local touch ups. Even tried to pre-cut with a scalpel, but it does not cut nice either.
It got the job done, but two cans would have been required to do the job nicely. A tint service would have been the better answer except that I cant have any service personnel entering the restricted production area to instal the film on the inside.
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