MrChaos wrote: In reply to secretariata: My favorites are the 2door tin top sidekick the want is strong
Harder to find "advertised" than an Tintop Samurai...One in/near Raleigh NC. Has a welded in roll cage/bar that I don't want to deal with for $3k
MrChaos wrote: In reply to secretariata: My favorites are the 2door tin top sidekick the want is strong
Harder to find "advertised" than an Tintop Samurai...One in/near Raleigh NC. Has a welded in roll cage/bar that I don't want to deal with for $3k
secretariata wrote:MrChaos wrote: In reply to secretariata: My favorites are the 2door tin top sidekick the want is strongHarder to find "advertised" than an Tintop Samurai...One in/near Raleigh NC. Has a welded in roll cage/bar that I don't want to deal with for $3k Here U go...
that is actually a pretty good looking deal. that is atleast a calmini 3+3 lift, G16a 8V i cant tell if it is tbi or carb, it has the calmini cage as well.
$1k worth of suspension.
secretariata wrote: Ok, I'd "found" several tintops within a couple hour drive and they all vanished or won't respond to their requested contact format, so potentially moving on... What's an early '90's 4runner with a 3.0 v-6, manual trans, 4x4, 4 door, bad paint, no serious rust, and 200k miles that won't start worth? Sounds like the engine turns over but won't fire. Advertiser (because I'm no longer certain that they are actually "sellers" on CL) is asking $1500, but I'm thinking half that if the engine actually turns over. Some brief searching seems to indicate several possible problems that are fairly common and easily fixed such as bad fuel pump, bad ECU, bad grounds, bad coil, bad starter or solenoid (I doubt but who knows). I think I'm gonna try and see it in a couple of days, but would like some input from the hive...
The 3.0 has a propensity for eating head gaskets FYI. I think it was an issue with improper torque on the head studs from the factory. The early pathfinders are in that same price range too.
Zomby Woof wrote:MrChaos wrote: The G13BB was only available in the US in the 1998 to 2001 Geo/Chevy Metro and Suzuki swift so stupid hard to find, where as the g16 in both 8v and 16v were available from 1989 to 2000.They are abundant pretty much everywhere else, but the G16 16V head is essentially the same head. The differences are the intake port shape to accommodate the injectors, so the intake has to go with the head in most cases. The 1.6 intake is by far the better choice, in part due to the TB being bigger. The TB on the 1.3 is only 40 mm, although you can find a bolt on swap 45 on some Esteems. The 1.6 cam has 5 degrees more duration, but the same lift as the 1.3 cam, and is also a better choice.
Interesting, this is the G16B you're talking about, right?
Edit: From what I'm reading the G16B uses a bloody distributor. Can I mix-n-match to get a G16B head with a cam sensor?
thatsnowinnebago wrote:secretariata wrote: Ok, I'd "found" several tintops within a couple hour drive and they all vanished or won't respond to their requested contact format, so potentially moving on... What's an early '90's 4runner with a 3.0 v-6, manual trans, 4x4, 4 door, bad paint, no serious rust, and 200k miles that won't start worth? Sounds like the engine turns over but won't fire. Advertiser (because I'm no longer certain that they are actually "sellers" on CL) is asking $1500, but I'm thinking half that if the engine actually turns over. Some brief searching seems to indicate several possible problems that are fairly common and easily fixed such as bad fuel pump, bad ECU, bad grounds, bad coil, bad starter or solenoid (I doubt but who knows). I think I'm gonna try and see it in a couple of days, but would like some input from the hive...The 3.0 has a propensity for eating head gaskets FYI. I think it was an issue with improper torque on the head studs from the factory. The early pathfinders are in that same price range too.
I thought it was one of the exhaust pipes routed too close to the cylinder head. But I did look at my 99 (3.4l engine) and noticed it seems to do the same thing. The 3.4s don't have the head gasket issue.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
Yes, that shouldn't be an issue. You can use the 1.3 head on the 1.6 since they're functionally identical, but you may have to figure out something for the crank sensor. Nonetheless, that should be easy, and you pick up 300cc. Although... that 1.3 16V SOHC is not a bad motor at all, and I do have a few tricks to smarten it up.
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=48005
Zomby Woof wrote: In reply to GameboyRMH: Yes, that shouldn't be an issue. You can use the 1.3 head on the 1.6 since they're functionally identical, but you may have to figure out something for the crank sensor. Nonetheless, that should be easy, and you pick up 300cc. Although... that 1.3 16V SOHC is not a bad motor at all, and I do have a few tricks to smarten it up. http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=48005
or just put a g10 with a turbo on it in the 1.3's place.
Or even better, turbo the 1.3 8V you already have. Also great motors that share the same architecture.
This weekend I will hopefully be installing a CV carb and intake on my Samurai to replace the weber that is on it.
In reply to MrChaos :
I am trying to set up a winch like yours on my 91' samurai. Do you have any other photos or can you tell me how you did this while keeping the stock bumper and brush guard? I really want to avoid buying a winch bumper.
Thanks
In reply to cclaybrook :
It had a front hitch installed on it. Likely home made. I sold the samurai in late 2016.
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