I have not driven my Miata in a couple of weeks and I noticed corrosion growing on the valve cover.
Other than painting the valve cover, is my best course of action just to keep it clean? And if just keeping it clean is the answer for my answer, what do I use to keep the engine clean?
Thanks!
Not sure if it totally answers your question, but we recently posted a video on how to publish aluminum over on the Classic Motorsports YouTube channel:
Clearly the answer is to drive it more often.
Are we talking brushed, blasted, or polished aluminum?
You will need a way to seal it somehow. Or regularly polish it.
I remember, decades ago, something called Zoop Seal was all the rage.
Edit: looks like it is now Shine Seal
This stuff? Link
NAPA sells a liquid aluminum cleaner that does magic on my pontoon boot hulls. Makes them look new.
I use sharkhide.
No idea what it is. I do know that it polymerizes. The rag you apply it with will be stiff as a board in a few hours.
Slippery said:Clearly the answer is to drive it more often.
I agree!
None of the above. It is just natural (?) aluminum.
On my car I wound up powdercoating the valve cover and intake both to keep them looking sanitary while being low maintenance.
Purple Frog said:NAPA sells a liquid aluminum cleaner that does magic on my pontoon boot hulls. Makes them look new.
What does the NAPA stuff do ? does it just remove the oxidation ?
How would it work on old cast alloy rims ?
I also had my Miata’s valve cover powder coated–this was like 25 years ago. It still looks new. (Just throwing it out there in case the info helps anyone.)
Just coat it in a fine layer of oil as a corrosion barrier. BMWs do this automatically but you may have to manually apply with a miata.
In reply to Cousin_Eddie (Forum Supporter) :
That looks really nice. (Taking notes...) Thank you.
theruleslawyer said:Just coat it in a fine layer of oil as a corrosion barrier. BMWs do this automatically but you may have to manually apply with a miata.
This is truth. An old 356 restorer loved engines that were covered in grime because that usually meant that they weren't corroded. Leaky oil coolers usually did a great job of distributing oil to all engine surfaces.
In reply to Noddaz :
If you want, I could powdercoat it for you, assuming it's in factory cast/rough condition. If it's polished, it won't hold the powder well.
Caveats... 1) You would have to do the prep, which I could help walk you through 2) I'm a complete amateur who has only coated about 15 parts in my homemade oven, which leads me to 3) I can't offer any warranty or guarantee. The good news is that I'm dirt cheap... as in free. You get a powdercoated part for the cost of shipping and powder, and I get to keep the leftover powder (if any). PM me if you're interested.
californiamilleghia said:Purple Frog said:NAPA sells a liquid aluminum cleaner that does magic on my pontoon boot hulls. Makes them look new.
What does the NAPA stuff do ? does it just remove the oxidation ?
How would it work on old cast alloy rims ?
It's called aluminum brightener. It contains sulfuric and phosphoric acid, so it's nasty stuff (wear PPE when using it!) but it does a great job on cleaning and brightening raw aluminum or cast aluminum parts - spray it on, scrub with a nylon brush and rinse with water. It's not for use on bright polished or clear coat parts. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MAC1458 This link is for a spray bottle but they also sell it by the gallon, it should be in stock at your local NAPA.
Trent said:I use sharkhide.
No idea what it is. I do know that it polymerizes. The rag you apply it with will be stiff as a board in a few hours.
Are you sure you aren't mixing up the rag with a different one?
That's enough of my adolescent mind thinking out loud, I'll be quiet now.
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