Hi everyone. I have always had hub centric wheels, however there are some steel wheels I'm eyeing for my kei truck that don't accept hub rings so it seems they are lug centric. I have never had lug centric wheels before so I'm a bit hesitant but also not knowledgeable about them.
So I have a few questions:
1.) Can a lug centric wheel be used on any vehicle?
2.) Is there a certain way to center them up and torque them down that I should be aware of in order to avoid vibrations?
3.) Anything else I should know?
Thanks guys!
dps214
SuperDork
1/21/24 11:08 a.m.
Any wheel that uses tapered lug nuts is lug centric, the tight fit on the hub bore just makes it easier to get it centered during install. The only issue I've run into is that it seems to take an extra cycle or two of retorquing after install.
dps214 said:
Any wheel that uses tapered lug nuts is lug centric, the tight fit on the hub bore just makes it easier to get it centered during install. The only issue I've run into is that it seems to take an extra cycle or two of retorquing after install.
Ah, interesting, I had no idea. I know that the steel wheels don't accept hub centric rings so I guess thats the main difference. After how many miles do you retorque?
In reply to Japanspec :
I drive about a mile, really just "around the block" is enough as long as it includes some turning left and some turning right, then torque again and call it good. Never had an issue.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to Japanspec :
I drive about a mile, really just "around the block" is enough as long as it includes some turning left and some turning right, then torque again and call it good. Never had an issue.
Cool thanks, thats not terrible at all actually.
dps214
SuperDork
1/21/24 12:17 p.m.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to Japanspec :
I drive about a mile, really just "around the block" is enough as long as it includes some turning left and some turning right, then torque again and call it good. Never had an issue.
I wouldn't call it a problem, I just found that it usually took 2-3 of those cycles to stop loosening up, versus usually just one with "hubcentric" wheels.
In reply to dps214 :
Do you also just run it a few miles at a time and then retorque?
If you torque them in the air, it helps get them well seated, centred, and to the right torque. Retorquing after 50 to 100 km is always a good idea.
dps214
SuperDork
1/21/24 6:28 p.m.
Japanspec said:
In reply to dps214 :
Do you also just run it a few miles at a time and then retorque?
It's not that crazy. Just after a few days of normal use. It's not like the nuts are trying to fall off or anything, just noticably take an extra fraction of a turn across a few rounds of torque checking versus usually just one for normal wheels. The above comment about getting them well seated and torqued without weight on them definitely helps. All in all I would say there's basically no risk involved, just a bit of annoyance.
I've never needed to retorque lugcentric wheels, they don't loosen on me if torqued fully the first time.
The only time I'd seek out hub centric wheels would be on a car that uses wheel bolts instead of studs.
Keith Tanner said:
...
The only time I'd seek out hub centric wheels would be on a car that uses wheel bolts instead of studs.
Wheel hanger pins really are the solution for bolts, especially if you add flat wheel spacers
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/its-easier-than-you-think-ho/239618/page1/#post3811877
(I never noticed the short version of the article title before)
aircooled said:
Winfield Schmitt said:
If you have wheel bolts, you need these. Makes installing the SO much easier...
Search "Wheel Installation Studs" on Harbor Freight. The link won't paste here.
Ohhhhhhh, that is what those are for! Thanks, I had no idea! I am not sure I really need them myself, old VW rims are pretty easy to mount with the wide pattern, and the offset allows you to kind of rest the rim on the drum anyway.
There name (on site) is: Wheel Hanger Stud Pilot Pins
These Weld Draglite wheels are lug centric and use shoulder lug nuts. The car hubs also doesn't have any shoulder sticking past the brake disks. I have no idea how and have never seen a lug centric balancer setup.
Sweet thanks guys, that all sounds great. I had this crazy idea of how to deal with them in my head but sounds like its pretty standard procedure.
Here is a lug centric balancer adapter. They normally bolt to the back surface of the balancer and the studs adjust to the wheel bolt pattern.
In reply to drock25too :
Proper tools always make the job better, however, I don't think I've ever seen a tire shop use one of those if they even had one. If they did have one, good luck convincing the young guys busting tires for a pittance of pay to take the time to put that on the balancer when that car needs to get out the door!
In reply to TheRyGuy :
We actually used ours. One of the few shops that did. We had one balancer that was dedicated for it, so that helped.
Keith Tanner said:
I've never needed to retorque lugcentric wheels, they don't loosen on me if torqued fully the first time.
The only time I'd seek out hub centric wheels would be on a car that uses wheel bolts instead of studs.
QFT.
Zero issues with torquing or balancing lug-centric wheels on any vehicle.
Definitely go to a shop that confirms they have the adapter and can use it. It makes a big difference in the balance sometimes. Especially if you are using "dirt track" style wheels without a machined or even consistent bore.
