Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
7/7/12 4:39 p.m.

Company seems to be out of business. Anybody have any backstory?

noddaz
noddaz GRM+ Memberand Reader
7/7/12 8:51 p.m.

Those things scare me.....

Sorry I am of no help here...

The_Jed
The_Jed HalfDork
7/8/12 6:16 a.m.

Bump steer...

44Dwarf
44Dwarf SuperDork
7/8/12 10:09 a.m.

Plenty of other places to get that sort of stuff check most circle track supplers. They use them all the time to change roll center locations

chandlerGTi
chandlerGTi HalfDork
7/8/12 10:55 a.m.
The_Jed wrote: Bump steer...

Actually they fix that on a car that has been either really lowered or very modified.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
7/8/12 11:20 a.m.

In reply to chandlerGTi:

Well, no. They fix the roll center, bump steer is something you're on your own for.

I have an FC RX-7 front suspension and I want to get the roll center out of the weeds. It uses 18mm pinch-bolt style stubs on the ball joint, similar to some VWAG vehicles. The way I see it, I have two options:

Hack the body to get the subframe higher in the shell (also raises engine)

-or-

Ball joint extenders to get the roll center back up, fix the resultant bumpsteer issues by spacing the rack higher.

Another possibility is 18mm aircraft-grade bolts in the uprights and tithe to Aurora Bearings and a machine shop to make custom "ball joints" but frankly, at that point, hacking the body looks more appealing.

noddaz
noddaz GRM+ Memberand Reader
7/8/12 11:36 a.m.

ok a little digging found this. UK EBAY ball joint extenders

And on another thought. What if you cut the mounting flange off an old ball joint and inserted it into the regular mounting point of the control arm. Then take longer bolts and mount a ball joint on top of the control arm...
It would not be one inch.... But it would be about 3/8th of an inch... Or if you welded a lowering block onto the control arm....

novaderrik
novaderrik SuperDork
7/9/12 1:20 a.m.

does anyone make a taller balljoint for that application? because a good way to correct a lot of geometry problems on a lot of GM cars ("metric" G body, 64-72 A body, 67-74 F/X body, etc) is to run a 1" taller lower balljoint to lower the car and get the suspension geometry straightened out- a side benefit is that it gets rid of most of the bump steer that GM engineered into them for some reason. some of these balljoints are made by Howe and available at places like Summit and Jegs and pretty much every circle track supplier, but some of them are Moog balljoints for a different application that just happen to work.. maybe there's a similar deal with your car.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
7/9/12 1:25 p.m.

Nope, it's nothing at all like that. It's a goofy bolt-on setup, like a '91-up Escort but longer.

ditchdigger
ditchdigger SuperDork
7/9/12 1:46 p.m.
noddaz wrote: And on another thought. What if you cut the mounting flange off an old ball joint and inserted it into the regular mounting point of the control arm. Then take longer bolts and mount a ball joint on top of the control arm... It would not be one inch.... But it would be about 3/8th of an inch... Or if you welded a lowering block onto the control arm....

If I am understanding you correctly this would have no effect on the roll centers. What matters is the imaginary line between the inner pivot and the pivot of the ball joint. Simply spacing the control arm down would not move the fulcrum of the ball joint. Your control arm would be closer to parallel but the geometry would be the same.

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