Porsche 84+ Motronic Cars: School Me

So, my two car garage is too crowded for my 87 and 91 MR2s, the woman's 2010 Accord V6, and my Starlet. More importantly, the woman is feeling a little unhappy that the brand new car has to park outside while my MR2s are in the garage.

So, in order to make the more important person in the relationship happy, I am considering selling the MR2s and replacing them with a 1984 or later Motronic equipped Porsche 911.

What should I know about these cars? What are the going prices?

I feel like a good Porsche with wide wheels, low stance, and ear splitting exhaust would almost make up for the loss of two MR2s.

(I've owned my 91 for 12 years and the 87 for 7 years. Both are the cleanest examples around--and are my children.)

Also on the short list are the NSX and Lotus Espirit. I kind of like the more mechanical nature of the 911--and the NSX is less friendly to own for a garage mechanic (I think).

This would be a rarely driven street car--probably prepped to SM2 autocross rules.

Sell me the '87.

I have nothing else to add.

The 84 and up 911s got the 3.2 engine and the motronic system took care of the probs with the L-jetronic - mainly a backfire would blow out the system without the pop-off valve upgrade. Pretty solid/stable 84 and up. Also the 3.2s got a better chain tensioner and were up on power (216 for NA cars IIRC). A lot of 3.0s are runniing these upgrades by now. Galvanized bodies, so rust isn't usually an issue unless there were repairs with pattern parts. About anything running can be parted for close to 10k, but you can find them cheaper (like mine - shameless plug for my classified listing). There's a saying - they're all 15k cars - some just haven't had it spent on them yet. Low mileage, top cars are in the high teens. 87-89s have the G50 trans - better action, although a well-adjusted 915 is just fine. 2nd & 3rd synchros get weak - but they'll go for a long time with weak synchros. Small leaks at hoses and valve covers are fairly common. Bottom ends are strong - many going 250k+. Valve stem guides have bronze bushings and wear - a little smoke on cold starts. Coupes bring higher prices - some favor the sunroof delete option. Well kept turbo versions are likely in the high 20-30k range. Clutches are an engine out deal and get expensive if you have to pay someone - pretty much true on anything 911. Good book is 101 projects for a 911. Consider a leakdown/ppi when buying. That is all for now.

"Rust is not an issue" is one of those Internet myths that you just can't kill. Unfortunately it's also not true. Unless you buy a desert Southwest car you will end up having to deal with some rust- these cars are over twenty years old after all.

They hold up a lot better than, say, a mid-eighties Toyota but they do rust (and I have the bills to prove it). Typical areas that need checking are:

• Kidney bowl area. Expensive repair if done properly, they all need it sooner or later and it's important for the car's structural integrity
• Front suspension pan. Tank sits on it, suspension bolts to it. 'nuff said. Also not a cheap repair but less expensive than the kidney bowls
• Wings rust around the headlamp bowl
• Usual areas that all cars seem to rust - sills, windscreen surrounds etc.

Nothing for these cars is cheap, not even ill-fitting pattern parts. Usually, you're better off buying OEM parts and there are a bunch of companies out there who source OEM parts and can supply at a discount over those that come in Porsche boxes. OEM parts do tend to last a long time, though.

I'm in two minds re PPI, I've had one done when I bought my Targa and the people who did it overlooked some expensive issues (namely, the front suspension pan). If I buy another one then I'd be present during the PPI and crawl underneath the car myself.

Re the G50 vs 915 discussion, I've driven both, I ended up with a G50 car simply because it was the better car but as oldtin says, both are fine. Just don't hurry the changes on the 915 and use the appropriate gearbox oil.

Since the 911 stuff is pretty well covered already, I leave you with this:

The NSX is basically a mid engine accord coupe. They're really not scary to work on at all, aside from the paper-thin body panels that you can't even think about leaning on.

Plus I would also guess that the NSX has fewer corrosion issues than a 911, although I might be deluding myself on this ('cos I'd like to get an NSX-T at some point).

NSXs are pretty much aluminum so maybe some electolytic corrosion, but not rust. As far as the 911s and rust - maybe I was lucky - but I think there's plenty of rust free ones out there - so it shouldn't be an issue finding one - to boxhead tim's point - didn't mean you don't have to look for it though.

BoxheadTim wrote: "Rust is not an issue" is one of those Internet myths that you just can't kill. Unfortunately it's also not true. Unless you buy a desert Southwest car you will end up having to deal with some rust- these cars are over twenty years old after all. They hold up a lot better than, say, a mid-eighties Toyota but they do rust (and I have the bills to prove it). Typical areas that need checking are: * Kidney bowl area. Expensive repair if done properly, they all need it sooner or later and it's important for the car's structural integrity * Front suspension pan. Tank sits on it, suspension bolts to it. 'nuff said. Also not a cheap repair but less expensive than the kidney bowls * Wings rust around the headlamp bowl * Usual areas that all cars seem to rust - sills, windscreen surrounds etc. Nothing for these cars is cheap, not even ill-fitting pattern parts. Usually, you're better off buying OEM parts and there are a bunch of companies out there who source OEM parts and can supply at a discount over those that come in Porsche boxes. OEM parts do tend to last a long time, though. I'm in two minds re PPI, I've had one done when I bought my Targa and the people who did it overlooked some expensive issues (namely, the front suspension pan). If I buy another one then I'd be present during the PPI and crawl underneath the car myself. Re the G50 vs 915 discussion, I've driven both, I ended up with a G50 car simply because it was the better car but as oldtin says, both are fine. Just don't hurry the changes on the 915 and use the appropriate gearbox oil.

They don't all rust. My 85 911 has been in the South all it's life. 69k miles, no rust, but is hasn't seen a lot of rain either.

Completely agree on the 915 vs g50. I ended up with my 915 car for the same reason you have your g50.

911 vs NSX...they are so completely different you'd really need to drive both. I'd never give up my 911 for an NSX, but of course there are a lot of people who think just the opposite.

I've been under the impression that these cars are pretty easy to maintain if you're used to doing all of your own work. Is this true?

I expect the parts cost to be high--however, what's the availability like? Certain parts for my MR2s are becoming hard to get and just about everything is discontinued for my Starlet.

Ive done brakes, put on new seat upholstery, messed around with some electrical issues. Pretty straightforward. 4 bolts holding the engine in. Parts costs are up there - not too bad for consumables - about $100 to do rotors and pads for the front (non-turbo) - parts from napa. Still decent availability - just not from a dealer - mail order or parts house. Don't expect anything from pepzone

In reply to oldtin:

That's actually cheaper than doing the front breaks on my MR2...pads alone were $80.00.

I'd go as far as saying that parts availability for older Porsches is probably in the MGB league (less the new bodyshells). There's a huge number of tuning & upgrading parts available as well.