dean1484 said:The only way to really tell if a rear bearing is bad is to disconnect the half shaft from the stub axle and the spin it. Also you put the tire back on and see if you can feel any play latterly. The last couple I have done did not wiggle but you could here/feel the bearing with the half shaft disconnected.
ok, sounds like my plan, then. I ordered new bearings so will progabbly just do them....ugh.
Stefan said:
I own a Porsche and you don't think I have had that bookmarked since Day 1? ;)
I think I even started a thread here about Clark Fletcher's passing :(
But yeah, I've already read that how-to about 20 times lol.
Getting that bearing out and back in is a serious pita.
Half inch impact sockets (big ones) and half inch threaded rod with nuts and multiple washers with lots of antisease to let the washers slip on each other and keeping the threads from gualing. Once I made this tool it is easier but still a pita. I use the old bearing to push the new one in. You absolutely can not apply pressure to the inner parts of the bearing or you will damage it going in. I happen to have a socket that is for the flywheel on Rx7’s that worked well. On the back side you have to spread the load out to the hub or you run the risk of bending or braking it. I think the real pita is getting it all set up because you have to get it in there fast before the bearing heats up. I found that a sanding the bearing with emmery cloth as well as the interior of the hub to take off just that little bit of metal helps a lot.
And did I mention you have to keep it square when tightening it up.
In reply to dean1484 :
cool. thanks for the tips. I mean, it sounds like it is done just like any other rear bearing on a trailing-arm style RWD car (like my e30), but that this one is just "tougher" or "tighter" than other cars. I have a couple of the HF bearing puller kits that have done some tough jobs in the past. Still crossing my fingers that it's one of the fronts....The way the sound instantly goes away with any left steering input makes me think that could be the case, but TBD.
I may also call Rob Pepper, who rallies 944s and lives nearby. I'm sure he replaces bearings constantly so maybe he knows some other tricks or has some good tools for the job.
I had to pick up a 3/4” drive breaker bar and socket set from Harbor Freight to get the nut loose.
Even then it took a 6 foot fence post and my 200lbs on the end of it to break it loose.
i used a piece of thick aluminum tubing the same diameter of the face of the bearing bore and some huge heavy duty washers behind it and on top of the tubing with a piece of 3/4” all thread and some matching nuts to pull the bearing out.
Going back in, I heated the arm up with a large torch and froze the bearings. It was still a huge pita to push it in and make sure it stayed square.
Next time, I’m going to pull the trailing arms and put them in the oven and use our hydraulic press to take them out and put them in. It’s about the same amount of time, but I won’t be physically dead from crouching in the gender well with a torch making small bits of progress with each turn.
In reply to Stefan :
Yup. That about sums it up. One of the few jobs on these cars that intentionally burning the car to the ground becomes a viable option.
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