Power tool rebuilder

I have 5 Dewalt grinders and a Black & Decker drill that gave up the ghost. Anybody here rebuild tools?

Check the brushes first, then the connections on the switches.

I have to replace the brushes on my grinders periodically.

If it's not either of those things the are officially "parts tools."

(Probably)

Check continuity at the switches (multi meter is your friend) I also check resistance and continuity of the coils but if you burned them you can smell it making the test moot. Most times it is either the brushes or the switch. I have repaired my makita grinders (4" and 8") several times.

If you can fix / mod cars tools are a snap.

I have three dead Saw-Zalls, all because of a nylon gear up front. I contacted the manufacturer, (two Sears, one DeWalt) and that's the only part you cannot buy.

Are your problems electrical or mechanical?

Dan

914Driver wrote: I have three dead Saw-Zalls, all because of a nylon gear up front. I contacted the manufacturer, (two Sears, one DeWalt) and that's the only part you cannot buy.

What's that knocking sound? I think it's opportunity. Could you buy a new sawzall, remove that gear, make a drawing from it, program a CNC from the drawing, make gears of tougher material, test for fit and function in your new-but-disassembled sawzall, then sell new gears on eBay?

On another note...

battery rebuilders, are they worth it?

I got a few dead Batteries sitting around. It seems like the rebuilds only save $5-$15 off buying new..

What say you GRM?

Big ego wrote: On another note... battery rebuilders, are they worth it? I got a few dead Batteries sitting around. It seems like the rebuilds only save $5-$15 off buying new.. What say you GRM?

I say replace the cells yourself. I don't have great info on the how, but I know it's out there.

I used to run a repair shop...

Throw the Bleak and Darker in the garbage unless it's a really old one.

The DeWalts, start by openeing the brush covers and checking the brushes. If they're not worn down, check the power cord and switch.

Use a meter on the voltage setting and plug the tool in to make sure you're getting 120V all the way through the cord and switch. Do this with the brushes removed so the tool won't start up on you.

I've seen cords and switches go bad so that they will check out on a continuity test but won't pass full voltage through. The continuity will check ok but you'll only be getting 70V or something like that.

If you find that it's not cord, brushes or switch, post again and I'll help you out further.

Shawn

Trans_Maro wrote: I used to run a repair shop... Throw the Bleak and Darker in the garbage unless it's a really old one. The DeWalts, start by openeing the brush covers and checking the brushes. If they're not worn down, check the power cord and switch. Use a meter on the voltage setting and plug the tool in to make sure you're getting 120V all the way through the cord and switch. Do this with the brushes removed so the tool won't start up on you. I've seen cords and switches go bad so that they will check out on a continuity test but won't pass full voltage through. The continuity will check ok but you'll only be getting 70V or something like that. If you find that it's not cord, brushes or switch, post again and I'll help you out further. Shawn

That is going in the archive, thanks.

AngryCorvair wrote:

914Driver wrote: I have three dead Saw-Zalls, all because of a nylon gear up front. I contacted the manufacturer, (two Sears, one DeWalt) and that's the only part you cannot buy.

What's that knocking sound? I think it's opportunity. Could you buy a new sawzall, remove that gear, make a drawing from it, program a CNC from the drawing, make gears of tougher material, test for fit and function in your new-but-disassembled sawzall, then sell new gears on eBay?

if you send me the new gear, I can cast it from a zinc alloy thats got about the same tensile strength as steel. if it doesnt wear well, a bronze unit can be made as well, but its significantly more expensive. A little dremelling on the newly cast piece and you have a million mile gear

I'm assuming that the nylon gear is the weak likn in the chain. Beefing it up may smoke the motor or cause some other expesive unobtanium part to fail.

Dan

914Driver wrote: I'm assuming that the nylon gear is the weak likn in the chain. Beefing it up may smoke the motor or cause some other expesive unobtanium part to fail. Dan

[ tinfoil hat engage ]

or a point of designed ineptitude that upon its planned demise will cause the consumer to have to purchase from the Mfr again. Do you think its coincidence that an otherwise tough as nails machine has a soft plastic part that A). fails first and B). is not available as an individual item?

{/tinfoil hat }

Big ego wrote: On another note... battery rebuilders, are they worth it? I got a few dead Batteries sitting around. It seems like the rebuilds only save $5-$15 off buying new.. What say you GRM?

I cut open a battery pack and replaced the cells because I love my Porter Cable 3/4 chuck cordless screwdriver/drill. Other than that - I just stopped buying battery powered tools. The ones with cords are way more powerful, cheaper, and I have plenty of outlets in the garage plus air. With the drill/driver I use it all over the house, deck and so on for quick stuff but if I am busting out a Sawzall in an upstairs bedroom I have a project going on and can run an extension cord.

My Dad has the problem at his work that the DeWalt tools batteries die and won't recharge, a battery rebuild is in order as DeWalt batteries are like 100$.

My little makita drill has about enough power to complete 1/2 a job. No matter what job it is, half way in the battery will die.

I have a craftsman belt sander that would run intermitantly, I bought new brushes, but after pulling the old ones I realized the brushes were fine. Just reseating the brushes made it work again.

A guy on the mercedes forum started making plastic odometer gears and there was pent up demand so it was parlayed into a business, if there is an equal demand for the stripped out drive gear in the sawzall you might go into business. Also check the parts diagram and confirm the drive gear isn't available.

I always TRY to repair stuff when Plan A is to buy a replacement. Even if you don't fix it, you learn some good stuff and the worst case scenario is you have a broken tool and Plan A.

10 years ago I adopted this as a main part of my "Enlightened Cheapness" plan.

Bruce

Dewalt is just the brand name that Black and Decker uses on their "good" tools. you get the replacement parts for either brand from the same 800 number.

but the tool might not be worth as much as the replacement parts- my mom's boyfriend ordered a $35 set of brushes for a Black and Decker drill that he paid $40 for a couple years earlier.

I still have a B&D moto tool that is really nice. It was $100 about 25 years ago. With inflation factored in, that's about $300 in today's "dollars." There's a flexible drive shaft from a powerful motor to the handheld tool. B&D had the foresight to make the collet ever so slightly different in size than EVERYONE ELSE IN THE INDUSTRY and then not make any replacement parts. That was the last B&D tool I bought. Dewalt is B&D. I'm still holding a grudge.

I'm also done with B&D/DeWalt. At least as far as drills go. Destroyed gear boxes get old, and their chucks won't hold a wet noodle. I do have one of their 12" chop saws that has cut nothing but aluminum for three years now without a problem.

As far a repairs, I have had good luck getting parts from these guys. I don't know how their prices compare, but the web site is user friendly and shipping was quick.

I've got three 18V Dewalt drills sitting in front of me. All of them have failed triggers.

egnorant wrote: I adopted this as a main part of my "Enlightened Cheapness" plan.

Been doing that for years. It started out with me as a kid taking my dads perfectly good tools and making them not work.