digdug18
digdug18 Dork
9/11/14 12:50 p.m.

I bought a gallon to paint on my truck frame, it's got a surface rust now. I also bought the por 15 pre paint and prep stuff, that you spray on. But do I really need to do all that? Or should I be getting it as close to rust free as I can before application?

I'm thinking wire wheel in a angle grinder or something...

Andrew

Dusterbd13
Dusterbd13 Dork
9/11/14 1:10 p.m.

For best results follow the directions.

Incredible products when used that way.

kylini
kylini Reader
9/11/14 1:12 p.m.

The prep work makes a difference no matter the paint. I'd definitely sand/wire down all the loose surface rust and a touch of paint around the bad areas, vacuum, clean with solvent/detergent, rinse with water, and then etch with an acidic solution. Whatever you do, make sure the surface is totally dry and residue-free before painting.

The POR-15 kit isn't bad. I redid my parcel shelf in the Miata with it and it worked wonderfully. Certainly survived a fire and subsequent interior pressure washings.

Oh-E36-M3-Jeebus:

Pre-prep:

Post-prep (wire wheel and all kit components):

Post-POR15:

digdug18
digdug18 Dork
9/11/14 1:15 p.m.

kylini- Looks great! I'll go grab a couple wire wheels to clean it up then, thanks.

bgkast
bgkast GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
9/11/14 3:22 p.m.

I just did a bunch of rusty bits on my boat trailer. I just hit them with the wire brush to remove loose rust and scale and hit them with the POR 15. From what I have seen if it's already rusty it has enough "texture" for the POR-15 to stick.

digdug18
digdug18 Dork
9/23/14 5:00 p.m.

I started applying the POR-15 today, just one frame rail, 6ft or so long on the outside.

I prepped with a wire wheel on a angle grinder, but that was a pita, so I just washed it with the hose, then knocked the rust off with a green scotchbrite pad, as the rust wasn't as deep as I thought it was. I hit it up with the POR-15 metal prep, then painted it.

I've got a gallon of it, wondering if I should apply a 2nd coat? And if so, should I hit it with the scotchbrite pad again, to give it some bite, or just apply right over the first POR-15 coating?

Andrew

SyntheticBlinkerFluid
SyntheticBlinkerFluid PowerDork
9/23/14 7:06 p.m.

This thread is relevant to my interests

kylini
kylini Reader
9/23/14 7:38 p.m.

By the way, I've since tested Rust Bullet and Metal Blast on my trunk after neutralizing and then pressure washing it out twice. Metal Blast is a very high quality rust prep spray and I think it does a better job than the POR-15 kit components. I still think POR-15 is better paint though, especially since Rust Bullet definitely requires two coats. The solution: buy each individually. It's not like the kit is a bargain...

digdug18
digdug18 Dork
9/24/14 6:38 a.m.

So, should I add a second layer, after the first dries?

Jerry
Jerry SuperDork
9/24/14 6:49 a.m.

I came here thinking this was a thread about getting ready for "Press on Regardless" rally '15. I'll show myself out, no need to get up.

Ian F
Ian F UltimaDork
9/24/14 7:40 a.m.
digdug18 wrote: So, should I add a second layer, after the first dries?

If you want to apply a second layer, it should be done while the first coat is still slightly tacky. This goes for applying a self-etching primer as well if you plan to top-coat it.

Be sure to place some plastic wrap between the lid and the can when closing. If any POR15 gets on the lid when you close it, you may never open it again. It seems to store better if you can keep it chilled. The ex- has the remains of a gallon she bought years ago in the garage fridge.

digdug18
digdug18 Dork
9/25/14 8:07 a.m.

yeah, the first time I opened it I had to beat on it with a screwdriver, and hammer. The second time was pretty similar to the first. Never thought about adding plastic between them, I'll have to try that after I clean more of the frame rails. Thanks.

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