Put my money on a BRZ!

In reply to z31maniac:

Yeah, mine has the "scratchguard", homelink, wheel locks and cargo tray/guard. It was a really good deal. I don't think I could get close to that again if I tried.

For the money, I really do think they are a great deal.

Did you cross shop the FR-S as well? Just curious regarding the decision for BRZ vs. FR-S; I haven't been keeping up with the differences in what is offered.

Scion doesn't budge on prices. Kind of like Saturn used to. You might be able to find a deal on a "new" 2014 BRZ that's still sitting on the showroom floor.

Excellent! Congrats.

Congrats! I have had my blue '15 BRZ for 3 three months and 3,500 miles, and I also love it. As for the power, it has gotten steadily faster as it has broken in. It's fairly noticeable. I had to modify the driver's seat, but that was due to my bad back rather than a fault in the car.

Appleseed wrote: Scion doesn't budge on prices. Kind of like Saturn used to. You might be able to find a deal on a "new" 2014 BRZ that's still sitting on the showroom floor.

I was able to buy my BRZ for something like $3k cheaper than a comparable FRS. They still think they command a premium over at the Scion dealer. At the Subaru place, they went below MSRP and I had several on the lot to choose from.

In reply to racerdave600:

What did you do with the driver's seat? While I have enough headroom for the street, if I could get just a little more that would be even better!

In reply to DocV:

Didn't cross shop the two. I liked the trim package better with the BRZ, and prices were much more flexible.

In reply to Rupert:

Port options can refer to many things.

• It is a way that manufacturer addons are automatically added so dealers can artificially bump up prices.

• It is a way that manufacturers can add on things as part of a sale/incentive. Free Home link rearview mirrors in the summer.

• It primarily is just a way to increase flexibility of shipping from the mfg point to another continent. It is even done in commercial goods other than cars. For instance a new circular saw may launch production in China. They ship without blade, box, shoe or labeling. Then they assemble the finished saw at port and the marketing guys say to throw in two blades instead of one for Sears and discount vouchers to Tim Horton's for Canadian Tire bound boxes.

Also "port" can be a warehouse 100 miles inland.

carczar_84 wrote: In reply to racerdave600: What did you do with the driver's seat? While I have enough headroom for the street, if I could get just a little more that would be even better!

I took it an upholster and had the bottom of the seat modified. It basically took some of the front out of the seat so it is not so much of a "bowl" effect on the bottom. It still looks stock but fits how I have to use it better. There's not much you can't do if you have someone you can work with.

Congratulations on the purchase. I get a chuckle out of people who say it is under powered stock - it's powered plenty to get you into jail for life and car impounded. Way too easy to corner at triple digit speeds. The thing about the power delivery is it is smooth, you do it right and you sail effortlessly into triple digit speed. If you want to really pass somebody, you downshift from 5th or 6th to 3rd and roll quickly into it @ 5k rpm...shift at 7k... bam - you are accelerating pretty quickly now. More passing power than any vehicle I've had before and fully stock suspension (on sticky tires) it out handles any track car I've tried to build in the past. The chassis is pretty phenomenal... which is why it's sucha great car.

I will say, at 6'2" there is plenty of room in the car, though I am not a fan of the driver's seat - it, like virtually every other factory seat, is simply not adequate and actually causes pains. My solution is to go with a known quality seat custom mounted in as perfect a seating position as possible. The only way to get a perfect driving position is by custom fitting a seat that your body fits the best. Well worth the money in the long run for having your body in a proper ergonomic driving position and properly supported.

And finally two upgrades I always highly recommend to new twin owners. Maybe they fixed it for the 2015 models, highly doubt it, but the stock steering rack bushings do a horrible job of controlling the steering rack - the steering rack moves all about in the cornering sequence because of both the soft rubber and quite large tolerance slack between the bushing and fastener shaft (because of having to accomodate a rolled thread fastener). This leads to a mid turn-in hesistation and imprecise feel compared to what you could have with something not so bad. There are two-piece solid Aluminum or Delrin bushings with proper fasteners (with machined threads so the shaft is tightly matched to the bushing diameter) and bushings which proper concentrically locate the steering rack to its mount and gets rid of the slop - best thing ever for steering feel, you will never want to go back to the stock again. Not like they are that expensive of a part either - $50 at most.

Second thing is the Grimmspeed Strut tower brace...one of the only properly designed ones for this car. Nice 1/8" thick wall steel tube with welded strut ends. With the brace installed you will notice a less harsh and more settled ride over sharp bumps and dips. The car is more composed and feels more solid in the front end. Maybe an extremely small perceived amount of understeer seems added at first... but not really, you can chuck it into corners more than you could before with more stability.

The Integra RS is still a nice car to me... but it just doesn't compare in driving enjoyment to the FR-S... the Twins are very special cars that few seem to actually get. That phenominal chassis is just a marvel of design for an economy car. Personally, the insides of the car are just as sexy as its outside:

I've had a few "Holy E36 M3, I'm doing 80" moments. Plenty of power to do stupid.

DocV wrote: Did you cross shop the FR-S as well? Just curious regarding the decision for BRZ vs. FR-S; I haven't been keeping up with the differences in what is offered.

Same as OP, I liked the interior of the Limited BRZ better than the FR-S.

And I don't have to say I'm driving a Scion.

May the tires always hold, the brakes stay firm and the paint always shine.

Congrats!

Is there a big difference between 2014 and 2015 models? Any reason not to jump on this (besides red)?

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=19711&endYear=2016&modelCode1=SUBBRZ&showcaseOwnerId=294911&startYear=2013&makeCode1=SUB&transmissionCode=MAN&transmissionCodes=MAN&searchRadius=100&mmt=[SUB[SUBBRZ[]][]]&listingId=357383435&Log=0

There are also a couple of used 2013 Premiums in the 25k-30k mileage range for under $20,000 asking price from private sellers.

It's red.

In reply to Vracer111:

Thanks for the pointers. Have been looking at them for a while now, and I similar ideas for what I might want to do with the car after I put a few miles on it.

It will be my weekday commuter car(first 100 miles the computer average is 29.8mpg, and the car isn't even broken in yet!! )/weekend toy. We are already planning some coastal trips. Some occasional autocrossing and a track day or two may happen at some point.

The plan right now is to keep it pretty simple. The two items you mentioned, maybe sway bars at some point, ss brake lines and uprated pads and crash bolts/rear lower arms for some camber adjustment. Nothing too crazy. I really like the factory handling and don't want to unbalance that too much.

Vracer111 wrote: ... but the stock steering rack bushings do a horrible job of controlling the steering rack - the steering rack moves all about in the cornering sequence because of both the soft rubber and quite large tolerance slack between the bushing and fastener shaft (because of having to accomodate a rolled thread fastener). This leads to a mid turn-in hesistation and imprecise feel compared to what you could have with something not so bad. There are two-piece solid Aluminum or Delrin bushings with proper fasteners (with machined threads so the shaft is tightly matched to the bushing diameter) and bushings which proper concentrically locate the steering rack to its mount and gets rid of the slop - best thing ever for steering feel, you will never want to go back to the stock again. Not like they are that expensive of a part either - $50 at most.

Huh, it sounds like that would have DRASTICALLY improved my feelings on the BRZ that I drove. I came away being impressed with the chassis, but I thought the steering feedback was pretty sloppy compared to my Mazdas.

I thought the engine was a fairly torquey little guy, too, but I prefer a bit more high-revving/cammed feeling. That's a personal preference, though.

I'm going to make it a point to try to find one that has this steering rack fix for a test drive!

WonkoTheSane wrote:

Vracer111 wrote: ... but the stock steering rack bushings do a horrible job of controlling the steering rack - the steering rack moves all about in the cornering sequence because of both the soft rubber and quite large tolerance slack between the bushing and fastener shaft (because of having to accomodate a rolled thread fastener). This leads to a mid turn-in hesistation and imprecise feel compared to what you could have with something not so bad. There are two-piece solid Aluminum or Delrin bushings with proper fasteners (with machined threads so the shaft is tightly matched to the bushing diameter) and bushings which proper concentrically locate the steering rack to its mount and gets rid of the slop - best thing ever for steering feel, you will never want to go back to the stock again. Not like they are that expensive of a part either - $50 at most.

Huh, it sounds like that would have DRASTICALLY improved my feelings on the BRZ that I drove. I came away being impressed with the chassis, but I thought the steering feedback was pretty sloppy compared to my Mazdas. I thought the engine was a fairly torquey little guy, too, but I prefer a bit more high-revving/cammed feeling. That's a personal preference, though. I'm going to make it a point to try to find one that has this steering rack fix for a test drive!

I actually found that completely opposite of my Miatas. They had quick turn in but limited feel, especially with power steering. And the BRZ engine is much happier in higher RPMs. I find it a bit gutless down low, much like a S2000. It definitely has a power band that it likes, it's fairly wide, but it's still there and noticeable.

racerdave600 wrote:

WonkoTheSane wrote:

Vracer111 wrote: ... but the stock steering rack bushings do a horrible job of controlling the steering rack - the steering rack moves all about in the cornering sequence because of both the soft rubber and quite large tolerance slack between the bushing and fastener shaft (because of having to accomodate a rolled thread fastener). This leads to a mid turn-in hesistation and imprecise feel compared to what you could have with something not so bad. There are two-piece solid Aluminum or Delrin bushings with proper fasteners (with machined threads so the shaft is tightly matched to the bushing diameter) and bushings which proper concentrically locate the steering rack to its mount and gets rid of the slop - best thing ever for steering feel, you will never want to go back to the stock again. Not like they are that expensive of a part either - $50 at most.

Huh, it sounds like that would have DRASTICALLY improved my feelings on the BRZ that I drove. I came away being impressed with the chassis, but I thought the steering feedback was pretty sloppy compared to my Mazdas. I thought the engine was a fairly torquey little guy, too, but I prefer a bit more high-revving/cammed feeling. That's a personal preference, though. I'm going to make it a point to try to find one that has this steering rack fix for a test drive!

I actually found that completely opposite of my Miatas. They had quick turn in but limited feel, especially with power steering. And the BRZ engine is much happier in higher RPMs. I find it a bit gutless down low, much like a S2000. It definitely has a power band that it likes, it's fairly wide, but it's still there and noticeable.

This. My NC had a ton more midrange but felt flat up top.

The BRZ however doesn't really come alive until just under 5k, but the gears are close enough you can just bang through the gears between 5-7k and the car gets out of it's own way pretty quick.

carczar_84 wrote: In reply to Vracer111: Thanks for the pointers. Have been looking at them for a while now, and I similar ideas for what I might want to do with the car after I put a few miles on it. It will be my weekday commuter car(first 100 miles the computer average is 29.8mpg, and the car isn't even broken in yet!! )/weekend toy. We are already planning some coastal trips. Some occasional autocrossing and a track day or two may happen at some point. The plan right now is to keep it pretty simple. The two items you mentioned, maybe sway bars at some point, ss brake lines and uprated pads and crash bolts/rear lower arms for some camber adjustment. Nothing too crazy. I really like the factory handling and don't want to unbalance that too much.

I wouldn't worry about SS lines, the NUMBER ONE THING you need to do if you plan on tracking the car is to add an oil cooler. The datalogs guys have done without one are terrifying. Think warm weather track day and having the oil approaching 290°.

That's why I haven't tracked mine yet, I plan on adding one in a few months, then some better fluid and pads and I'll actually take it out on track.

z31maniac wrote:

carczar_84 wrote: In reply to Vracer111: Thanks for the pointers. Have been looking at them for a while now, and I similar ideas for what I might want to do with the car after I put a few miles on it. It will be my weekday commuter car(first 100 miles the computer average is 29.8mpg, and the car isn't even broken in yet!! )/weekend toy. We are already planning some coastal trips. Some occasional autocrossing and a track day or two may happen at some point. The plan right now is to keep it pretty simple. The two items you mentioned, maybe sway bars at some point, ss brake lines and uprated pads and crash bolts/rear lower arms for some camber adjustment. Nothing too crazy. I really like the factory handling and don't want to unbalance that too much.

I wouldn't worry about SS lines, the NUMBER ONE THING you need to do if you plan on tracking the car is to add an oil cooler. The datalogs guys have done without one are terrifying. Think warm weather track day and having the oil approaching 290°. That's why I haven't tracked mine yet, I plan on adding one in a few months, then some better fluid and pads and I'll actually take it out on track.

An oil cooler will definitely be on the list of track prep items. The plan for now is to get comfortable on the street with the car for a little while, then start in a few of the items at a time.