I wonder if Dherr's 2.0 Ecoboost with trans is still available? This would be a sweet chassis for that
I wonder if Dherr's 2.0 Ecoboost with trans is still available? This would be a sweet chassis for that
Stoked for you! The subframe scabbing can quickly turn into a big project if you don't have a good handle on your scope... at least a friend told me so.
Looking forward to seeing where you go with it. Love the looks
I suspect that if this thing were put on a set of scales you would find that it's pretty nose heavy. From eyeballing the photos it looks like the front axle center line is around the space between cylinders 2 and 3. Any engine swap for a power unit that is heavier than the stock one will only make that worse. I'd weigh it, pull the engine and trans and weigh them before deciding on any other candidates. It will benefit from a lighter unit or engine setback. The Corona weighs about the same as NA/NB Miatas , but without their nice weight distribution. A modern 1.6/1.8 liter all aluminum engine would make this a sweet little runner if you could get one to 130 HP. I'm not sure what that engine would be though.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Saturn LLO (the 1.9L DOHC engine) is all aluminum and has 125 hp. T-5 has been mated to them sucessfully. They're very light weight and compact. Also plentiful.
I like it!
I would have gone for an original motor or something like it and make it into a vintage race car. I also miss my 72 Corolla.
I think since the 3R that came with the car is iron block and internet says they weigh just North of 300 pounds even a k24 could be a lightweight candidate. Similar weight or less when dressed, trans would be heavier (how much depends on what I would use) but that at least shifts weight more central. Also I don't know if I would need to upgrade the rear axle or just stuff whatever LSD is available for them? Will it hold up to the 200 or more ponies a k series could puff out? The k24z3 used with some of the Miata swaps are super cheap.....
My thoughts are two different directions.
1. 20/22r with a Weber, carb, header and some form of exhaust larger than the drinking straw that came stock. This is undoubtedly the cheaper AND way easier option. My gut says this is the smart option.
2. k swap with FRS trans. Not nearly as cheap or easy, but more of what gets me excited, which is kinda the whole point of this car. Intake, flywheel and trans adapter will eat up some funds, but I HATE carbs. Probably need a Hondata or similar? Exhaust would be easy with the z3 engine since it has the simplified exhaust manifold. Having EFI would be nice, the ability to tune, etc. Oh and I love the FRS transmission which is also inexpensive-ish. I already have a spare driveshaft for one. I mean, that's gotta be a sign right? I have a k24a2 in the garage I can measure to see if it would fit as I think they are a bit tall. I know a bp1.6 or 1.8 will fit in the bay, but not sure if there was any firewall trickery to do so.
OR option 3? Whatever the cheapest lightweight 4 cylinder is that has affordable trans options with a power level at least above the 150 mark?
Then for suspension. I really don't think I need to adapt anything. There HAS to be some form of poly bushing to replace the worn out rubber bits in the front arms. I know there are ball joints available. Maybe some form of coilovers or some springs that at least give it some desirable drop will bolt in? The only thing I would maybe like to do is covert to rack and pinion for steering. Manual or power. Would need to figure out if the juice is worth the squeeze or not though.
Seats look like they can be recovered. Carpet, I've got some ideas.
Window seals look to be reproduced and somewhat inexpensive on ebay right now.
Don't wanna build a noisy race car. It limits the use of the car, but would probably be the easiest route for this one. I'll keep this as a nice blend between track/GT car?
Luckily I have plenty of time to put a plan together.
In reply to Appleseed :
I really dug that car when it came out. Still do. I don't think finding a cheap s2000 roller is within range as they have rocketed to insane prices now. There's a local one with a blown engine for $9k.
In reply to birdmayne :
Dimensionally it may fit, but I really don't want a boosted car. Prefer NA but if I did boost it, supercharger or nothing.
captainawesome said:OR option 3? Whatever the cheapest lightweight 4 cylinder is that has affordable trans options with a power level at least above the 150 mark?
I think that the late-model domestic I4s--Ecotec, Ecoboost, or Duratec, are going to get you a lot more bang for the buck than a K-swap. You give up some ultimate power potential and scene points, but they are all aluminum, DOHC, VVT, make 175HP or so out of the box, seem to handle turbocharging well, lots of RWD trans options...
Actually, I just thought of something that might be better. Keep it all Toyota! Marc at Frankenstein Motorworks has a build recipe for a junkyard hero Toyota 2AR engine that makes over 200whp. Look up his YouTube channel for info. I'm not sure what the RWD transmission options are for these, though.
In reply to captainawesome :
If you want a rack and pinion you'll have to convert from rear steer to front steer uprights. If you leave it rear steer with the Toyota box you'll need a front sump engine because the Toyota steering components will interfere. This is how scope creep starts..........I've been there already. It will take some serious thought to get it right, but you'll have a pretty unique ride when done.
In reply to obsolete :
I'll have to check into that. I probably lean towards the k swap idea since I'm putting a k24a2 in my FRS. It's a good platform for reasonable power, good revs, super robust, and HUGE aftermarket for every trinket you could think of when swapping.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
I'm not 100 percent set on rack/pinion, but know that a steering box can feel pretty sloppy. A BMW e21 steering rack are rear steer, possibly adaptable? Doubt the ratio is great, but I think there are some mods that can improve that?
In reply to BoxheadTim :
I've considered that as well. Purchase price for the engine alone is around 1200-1500 then stand alones are kinda loved or hated for them. Still, 200hp NA and Toyota would be neat.
A Miata chassis swap is easy if the following are dimensionally close
1-front axle to middle of front seat. This means the firewalls are going to line up.
2-track width. Keeps tires under car and better chance pichwelds can be merged
3-distance from center to center of front seats. If the donor is too wide, you sit behind the windshield post.
BoxheadTim said:Congrats!
BEAMS engine swap? IIRC those have been adapted to RWD for swaps into AE86s and the like.
It's not really adapting, they were found in the Altezza/IS200. I'm not sure if there even was a front drive version.
Supposedly, they are cheap because you can't really make more power with them. But they have a lot in stock form, so who cares that it isn't the next SR20DE?
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Why bother with converting to front-steer to get a rack and pinion? Most 80's RWD Toyotas are rear-steer with a front sump, so finding parts from an AE86 Corolla, AW11 MR2, RA65 Celica, etc should provide some good options. We converted Oldeskewltoy's Toyota MkII coupe project to rack and pinion using an AE86 rack (or AW11, can't remember but they are essentially the same) with custom mounts, mix n' match Toyota parts bin inner and outer tie rods, and the stock uprights/knuckles from the steering box setup. Toyota 4AGE, 3SGE, 20R, 22R, and likely more all came with front sumps.
In reply to ae86andkp61 (Forum Supporter) :
Until this thread I didn't realize there were rear steer rack and pinion options available. Every rack car I've owned was front steer. Time for a paradigm shift ! I'm never too old to learn.
So my eyes were bigger than my stomach. More than anything I'm a Legos guy. I like to bolt stuff together with maybe a smidge of fabrication. This car is going to require some rust repair and it's just not my thing.
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