Quick Miata death question......

I'm working on a friends Miata, timing belt and what not. I have the FM crank holding tool on like so, and when put the wrench on the crank bolt, the bolt spins (doesn't loosen) and the pulley stays in the same spot. Am I doing something wrong, or is the key sheared or something? 

Sounds like a sheared keyway, be careful not to spin the engine backward too much. I suppose removing it involves bracing the crank some other way. Maybe on the flywheel teeth?

We tried putting it in gear and holding it with the brake but I think the clutch is slipping. It's certainly no holding. Rope down a cylinder? 

Remove the breaker bar and use an impact instead.  You'll have a better shot at being able to break the bolt loose without turning the engine. 

mazdeuce - Seth said:

We tried putting it in gear and holding it with the brake but I think the clutch is slipping. It's certainly no holding. Rope down a cylinder? 

Thought about this but that's probably not good for the rod bearings.

I assumed you'd already tried an impact. If not, try that.

Impact does not fit in the space allotted. The only way to get more space is open the AC system to remove the condenser. Or buy a smaller impact. Neither sounds like a good way to spend my day. 

Edit: the toothy bit for the timing belt is spinning with the pulley and the crank bolt, the outer part with the holes moves with the holder. This is weird. 

Second Edit: Actually checked the diagram and see that they're two pieces, which makes sense, but I've never taken one of these apart so.....yea, back to thinking there is a bit of a key issue. Crap. 

Is getting around the condenser too far for a U-joint and extension? Figure this falls into the "you've already thought of that" bucket, but hey...

GameboyRMH said:

mazdeuce - Seth said:

We tried putting it in gear and holding it with the brake but I think the clutch is slipping. It's certainly no holding. Rope down a cylinder? 

Thought about this but that's probably not good for the rod bearings.

I assumed you'd already tried an impact. If not, try that.

It's definitely bad for the pistons.

Brace the breaker bar against the left chassis rail and bump the starter.

If clutch is slipping you might as well start the engine r and r anyway, but id try the starter bump first.

Knurled. said:

Brace the breaker bar against the left chassis rail and bump the starter.

Yep, this is the ghetto impact for crank bolt removal.  Works perfectly.  As soon as you hear the engine start to turn, let off the starter.  It can also be helpful to tape the breaker bar to the pulley so it doesn't fall off. 

Braced breaker bar success! You guys rock. 

This doesn't look promising..........

I got the car because timing jumped. Or that was the assumption. Seems to be more going on. 

rslifkin said:

Knurled. said:

Brace the breaker bar against the left chassis rail and bump the starter.

Yep, this is the ghetto impact for crank bolt removal.  Works perfectly.  As soon as you hear the engine start to turn, let off the starter.  It can also be helpful to tape the breaker bar to the pulley so it doesn't fall off. 

Its the way i took my miata crank bolt out.

And either the aluminium pulley or woodruff key has failed, explaining the issue this car had.

Thanks for the help guys. I'm betting I'll be asking about pulling motors from the top or bottom next. Stupid broken motor.

Bottom.  You have a 2 post lift. 6 bolts for rear subframe, a few front. Pick up the body.

I wish i had a 2 post to do it that way.

bumping the starter was the old trick for doing a fiat 124 timing belt.

I'm not excited to deal with this in the spring. When I went to set my timing my timing mark on the crank pulley was off. A LOT.

I remarked it with a true TDC, but can't ignore it forever.

Sounds like a great excuse to do that ls swap we all dream about.