So in the process of putting the NA back together, I had to put some used CV's in the new rear hubs.
Being a lazy hillbilly without a fully stocked garage, I basically hand pressed it into the hub as far as it would go, then kind of, ahem, bashed the rest of the way in on a piece of 2x8.
Problem is, a few of the ARP studs backed out ever so slightly, like 2-3mm. I fear the same will happen to other side when I go to "put" it in as well.
My safety Nazi says, wait and take it to a buddy or machine shop and get them pressed back in. My "it'll be OK" side says, once I get the wheel on and tighten it down, it will pull the stud back flush with the back of the hub.
Thoughts?
Torquing the wheel will pull the studs in the rest of the way.
It's not a bad idea to retorque after a road test, but you'll be fine.
OK, good that's what I was thinking. Here is a pic for reference, the washer is .120" thick.
yup, they'll pull in just fine
Stack a couple well-greased washers on the stud.
Put an open-ended wheel nut on so the flat face is against the hub.
Wrap a prybar in a rag and put into two of the other studs to keep the hub from turning.
Suck the stud in with the nut, washers, socket and breaker bar.
All done.
+1 for the stack of washers and tightening nut on stud.
fasted58 wrote:
+1 for the stack of washers and tightening nut on stud.
And use an impact gun if you have access to one.
Woody wrote:
fasted58 wrote:
+1 for the stack of washers and tightening nut on stud.
And use an impact gun if you have access to one.
Since I apparently ditched the stock lug nuts, the only ones I have at the moment are the aluminum 949 racing ones.
I'd rather not try to use those to pull it back in place.
Put a deep socket over the stud and a C-clamp over the head of the stud and the socket. You may be able to press the stud back in.
Woody wrote:
fasted58 wrote:
+1 for the stack of washers and tightening nut on stud.
And use an impact gun if you have access to one.
that's how the local automotive machine shop does it and they have a hefty hydraulic shop press to boot
I've used the impact to replace studs on the vehicle, easy peasy
DeadSkunk wrote:
Put a deep socket over the stud and a C-clamp over the head of the stud and the socket. You may be able to press the stud back in.
Not a bad idea, I'll have to see if I have a stock big enough to go over the long ARP studs...
I suggested the impact gun because it will be less likely to break or spin the stud. But you have to know when to say when or you can easily strip the stud (or, more likely, the nut) with the impact gun.
I've run many a stud in with a couple of greased washers and an open end lug nut flipped over so the flat face contacts the washers. It's easier with an impact, but for that small amount a decent size 1/2" drive ratchet will do just fine.
I do so hope you antiseized the hub and CV splines...
If I were doing this, I'd use my electric impact and a regular steel nut. With the aluminum nuts I wouldn't try it in any form, impact or big ratchet. You might try seeing if your local hardware store has a grade 8 metric nut to fit your new studs.
Yeah, I'll look up the thread and size tomorrow.
Curmudgeon wrote:
I've run many a stud in with a couple of greased washers and an open end lug nut flipped over so the flat face contacts the washers. It's easier with an impact, but for that small amount a decent size 1/2" drive ratchet will do just fine.
I do so hope you antiseized the hub and CV splines...
I bought the rebuilt hubs from Planet Miata, but the CV's got PLENTY of copper anti-seize before they went in. 
While we are on the subject, does anybody know how much smaller the hole should be than the unsquished knurled end. Reason I ask is I had a machine shop offset drill my hubs to change bolt pattern from 4X95.25 to 4X100 on my TR8. I had them press in studs with a larger knurled end to fill the now larger hole. Well, apparently the holes were drilled too small, and when the studs were pressed in, they mushroomed the hub around the holes and bent the face of the hubs. The hubs and the studs were ruined. On the second try, they overcompensated and made the holes too large. The studs didn't press in perfectly perpendicular to the face of the hub. Made getting the wheels and rotors on the first time a real challenge. Once they were on and bolted down, all was good. I don't want them to screw up the next set I want done.
When I had custom axles made for the MG, I just told Mosler what size the splines were. Never measured the holes, but they were correct and just a bit tighter than stock. Pulled 'em in with a set of open-end lug nuts and an impact
So - maybe ask the pros at an axle shop?
iadr wrote:
My belief is that if the studs pull in with a nut, they aren't fit tight enough.
I always use deep impact sockets and (for lack of a better term) crush studs into hubs in a large vise.
Thousands of mechanics out there find a stud pulled in with a nut is plenty.
You do realise that the press fit only holds them in place and the head of the stud takes the tension, correct?
Also, a vice is not a press, stop doing that.
You may find that those super special alloys aren't all that special and the stud is simply a swedged stud.
Some studs are pressed in with the knurl being a bit longer than the thickness of the hub flange.
Then a tool is run down the stud until it bottoms on the knurl and tightened down to swedge the knurl and lock the stud in place.
These can be hard to tell from conventional studs and pressing them out without grinding them off flush with the hub first can make the stud hole too large to take the same size knurl a second time.
Back in the day, I pulled studs in with the wheel and lug nut. Worked fine. Then, after I got a compressor, I bashed them in with an air hammer. Worked fine. Now I have access to a press and did one hub on the Celica there. Worked fine.
Never noticed a lick of difference in how the stud performed with the various methods used. I'm more that sure you're going to be just fine. Agree with Knurled, check the torque again after a few miles, but you'll be good to go.
Many hundreds or perhaps thousands of Spec Miata racers can't be wrong. Grease up the stud and washers and pull that stud in with the lugnut.
Curmudgeon wrote:
I've run many a stud in with a couple of greased washers and an open end lug nut flipped over so the flat face contacts the washers. It's easier with an impact, but for that small amount a decent size 1/2" drive ratchet will do just fine.
I do so hope you antiseized the hub and CV splines...
I need to get new glasses. The first few times I read it I would have sworn you were saying somthing about you and greased studs
Came up in a search for 'greased stud':
When I had the RX2 axles redrilled for 4x100, I gave the machine shop one of the studs, which are the long round tip Miata studs. They came back with the holes drilled/milled/reamed/whatever so that the knurl would just barely start into the hole. I lightly oiled the knurl, stacked two greased washers, ran a lug nut on upside down and zapped it with my air impact, they pulled right in.
Oh, before I did that I slid the RX7 rotors onto the axle face and used the holes to mark the spots to redrill them so the pattern matched.
For everyone overthinking things:
We install studs with a lug nut and a really cool doohickey with a taper and a bearing. (It doesn't destroy lug nuts like the washer method) And impact gun frequently WON'T pull a new one in 100%, while torquing the wheels always does. (You can feel the torque going away as the stud starts pulling in, then comes back)
This is on NEW studs that are trying to cut a new spline. Used ones that haven't even been removed, just pushed out slightly, are a no brainer. Just tighten the lug nuts normally and it will Be Fine.
These are new ones that haven't been removed or used yet.....
The Machinery's Handbook will tell you what size hole you need to drill for the size of the knurl you are pressing in. I highly suggest anyone who fabricates things for their car gets a copy, and reads it.
