dbgrubbs
dbgrubbs Reader
4/18/16 11:14 a.m.

Recently dropped a FS ZE into my Protege5. Changed out all seals, water pump and timing belt before dropping it it. Everything worked out well EXCEPT the rear main seal. It has a slow but steady drip. I was extremely careful installing it and used plenty of oil on the inner part and also had the crankshaft oiled. Looks like I'll be redoing it after pulling the transmission. What's the best way to install this ensuring a leak free result?

Tyler H
Tyler H GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
4/18/16 11:22 a.m.

Don't overdrive the seal. Use an OEM part. Replace the whole bulkhead, if it is applicable to that engine (seal pre-pressed into a bolt on part.)

Sorry, what a PITA.

oldeskewltoy
oldeskewltoy UltraDork
4/18/16 12:01 p.m.

also check the crank for any grooves on the crank where the seal rides... if grooved move seal to fresh area

note groove in rear section where seal rides

Robbie
Robbie GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
4/18/16 12:59 p.m.

One time I installed a rear main seal BACKWARDS. Spring goes on the OIL side.

Or this:

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo UltimaDork
4/18/16 2:00 p.m.

If the crank is grooved there are often seals available with the lip in a different place.

Robbie
Robbie GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
4/18/16 2:10 p.m.
BrokenYugo wrote: If the crank is grooved there are often seals available with the lip in a different place.

You can also get what is called a "speedi-sleeve".

BrokenYugo
BrokenYugo UltimaDork
4/18/16 2:20 p.m.

In reply to Robbie:

I'd consider a speedisleeve a last resort kind of thing here, easy to screw up with the engine in the car.

dbgrubbs
dbgrubbs Reader
4/18/16 2:44 p.m.

I cleaned off the crankshaft thoroughly and could find no evidence of scarring. There was also no evidence of the engine leaking previously.

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