In reply to minstmeat :
What he's saying is, the pushrod should have free play so that it's not already engaging the piston in the master cylinder. If you can't wiggle it a little in the cup that it pushes on, it's too long.
If it's too long, the piston is covering up the transfer port, and the pedal will get lower and lower because it can't allow fluid in from the reservoir.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Yeah, I finally was able to wrap my head around what he meant. Im still adjusted out as far as possible with the 3/4 Omni, but I'm getting into gear without difficulty. Engagement isn't where I'd like it still. It'd be nice to have the 1" free play up top and complete disengagement a couple of inches from the floor.
It drives. Just like a slammed, clapped out, V8 swapped civic should. I'm fab'ing outer tie rods to try and mitigate bump steer. Trying to get the inner parallel to the lower control arm and square with my heim joint at the knuckle. They need ~4" of rise and it's difficult to get all of that with the addition to the subframe for the engine mounting. I ending up purchasing some of the finest Maxxpeeding Rods coilovers, too. No clue what rate the aftermarket lowering springs in the front were, but it is soft. Not doing any justice to the exhaust or lower rad mounting...
I posted a couple of junk shorts on YouTube if anyone is interested. Same username...
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