In reply to stafford1500 :
Will do, hopefully that's it...
In reply to stafford1500 :
Will do, hopefully that's it...
docwyte said:In reply to kb58 :
what are you replying in regards to?
Um, recommendations regarding air compressors. I recommend going by cfm and not hp claims.
In reply to kb58 :
Your comment was just kinda out of left field given that the current conversation is about finding a leak on my current compressor....
When I bought a 60 gallon Kobalt it had a pin hole leak on the welded outlet bung. It would bleed down after a few hours and the compressor would cycle. Called Lowe’s they came out with a new compressor and picked up the one that leaked. Really like the compressor.
I did install a ball valve on drain with a section of clear hose to make it easier to drain water off. Also plumbed in ball valve on outlet which I turn on when getting ready to use and turn off when done. Quick change fittings and air hose fittings can leak . I never turn off the compressor and it rarely cycles when the ball valve is in the off position.
In reply to pirate :
Can't seem to find any leaks but clearly there is one. I tried opening the valve on the bottom and blew out a bunch of air but it still bled down like it always has.
Not sure where to go from here, I bought this awhile ago from Lowe's, kinda doubt its under warranty still.
In reply to docwyte :
Did you put ball valves on the outlet and the drain? I've seen the drain valves leak more than once...
In reply to rdcyclist :
Nope, not yet. I'll try that next. Are the drains a standard size?
In reply to docwyte :
Real soapy water in a spray bottle and patience . Check the tank inlet all the way back to the compressor head.
Also the output valve could be leaking. Disconnect the air after the outlet valve and get after it with your soapy water.
On a side note, I had my compressor out of its pocket for service and changed the oil. I have always used "compressor oil." Tried full synthetic "compressor oil" once. Big mistake. Went back to conventional. This time, I put some Mobil SHC 630 in. I had it laying around and thought I'd try it. Man, that stuff has gotten expensive, but the compressor sure runs quieter and smoother now.
In reply to TRoglodyte :
I am using real soapy water but maybe not enough patience! I'll keep trying, the airs gotta be leaking from somewhere.
docwyte said:In reply to rdcyclist :
Nope, not yet. I'll try that next. Are the drains a standard size?
Typically 1/8" pipe. Some really big ass compressors are 1/4" pipe.
The standard drain valves are usually pretty cheap which is why I replaced with a ball valve plus so much easier to drain water off. The leak is probably not on the tank metal itself but more likely in any welds at drain or outlet or inlet from compressor head. Also check the pressure pop off valve with soapy water. If the pop off valve is leaking you can pull the manual release a couple times and see if it reseals.
It's time to upgrade my 4.5gal DeWalt air compressor. I want one that has at least a 60 gallon tank, dual stage etc. My garage is already plumbed for air and there's a 220v outlet right where the compressor will go. Can't have too much motor though, since the compressor circuit is only a 30 amp breaker.
Anyway, budget up to $800. Would love some suggestions.
I think you will have a hard time finding a two stage compressor in your price range. Two stage compressors are more efficient and certainly quieter. However, any of the 60 gallon single stage compressors will be an improvement over your oil less DeWalt (I had oil less Craftsman) compressor. A 60 gallon single stage will be some what quieter and pretty much give you all the air you need for a home shop. I happen to have a Lowe’s Kobalt that I got on sale and like it. A lot of these 60 gallon compressors have very similar max pressure and CFM ratings and may be rebadged and made by the same company. Do a bit of homework and compare specs of sellers around you.
I will say if you are going to use the compressor daily and for continued use a two stage might be worthwhile but expect to pay a minimum of twice your stated budget.
Potential Canoe above.
Looking at the $400-600 range, this Kobalt two stage looks like a great deal especially considering you can get lowes 10% off coupons on ebay for $3-5:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-60-Gallon-Two-Stage-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000542193
Even cheaper RuralKing has a single stage for $430:
I'm not sure why its worth buying used at that price point, most used stuff on marketplace or craigslist goes for at least $400 and who knows how it was cared for (properly drained), etc.
Reminds me I need to service mine. On the leak check the (checkvalve ) at the outlet of the pump. Mine went bad fairly quickly. It was a slow leak
A pal bought the above Kobalt and has been really pleased. Looking at it if I can't get my old school Dayton to be reliable.
I replaced my 25 yr. old Craftsman 5 hp a couple of months ago with a Quincy 5 HP Two Stage 60 gal. unit. I smashed my piggy bank and bought this unit since it's all USA made and is a high quality unit. Before I even used it once I re-plumbed the output from the second stage of the compressor cylinders through an after cooler and then through two water traps before the air is sent to the storage tank. Using SS braided lines and AN style fittings this cost me about $150 in parts but it works. The air coming out of the cylinders heats up the metal line so hot that you'll burn your fingers if you touch it. Grab the line coming out of the after cooler and it feels like room temp.
Doing this will keep almost all of the moisture out of the storage tank which I've found to be the main failure point of most air compressors, tank rust out.
No one drains their tank every time they use their compressor and so the tank develops rust and over time fails.
jimbbski said:I replaced my 25 yr. old Craftsman 5 hp a couple of months ago with a Quincy 5 HP Two Stage 60 gal. unit. I smashed my piggy bank and bought this unit since it's all USA made and is a high quality unit. Before I even used it once I re-plumbed the output from the second stage of the compressor cylinders through an after cooler and then through two water traps before the air is sent to the storage tank. Using SS braided lines and AN style fittings this cost me about $150 in parts but it works. The air coming out of the cylinders heats up the metal line so hot that you'll burn your fingers if you touch it. Grab the line coming out of the after cooler and it feels like room temp.
Doing this will keep almost all of the moisture out of the storage tank which I've found to be the main failure point of most air compressors, tank rust out.
No one drains their tank every time they use their compressor and so the tank develops rust and over time fails.
Auto-drain systems are readily available for around $100 that is another solution to the moisture problem.
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In reply to PA202201 :
You all carry any canoe-mounted air compressors? Those can be pretty handy around here.
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