So, my oil accumulator is about to be installed. Problem is, it will be mounted underneath the front bumper cover due to space constraints in the miata.
I do NOT want to spend 200 bucks on an electric ball valve, and the manual one will be all but inaccessible.
So i was thinking cable operated, like a choke.
Will this work? If so, how do i make it?
This is yhe current setup that just wont work for my application.
Is there something that would make this not work? I use them at the theater all the time.
Rated for 100 psi and 250F. 1.67A, 20W, stainless, viton seals for use with oil. I get this $30 one because it's stainless and I use it for everything from air to soapy water, to alcohol, but there are brass ones for $15.
In reply to ross2004 :
Yup. But more of a roll your own.
Or am i overthinking it again? Can i just leave it open and let it dump into the pan/refill ebery time i fire it up?
We have a few drag racers local that leave theirs open amd let it refill on startup.
Depends on if you're using it as simply a sump or as a pre-charge tank. Kinda nice to have oil pressure before you spin.
I'm using it more as an extra sump due to only having a 3 quart pan with capacity as well as a low oil pressure safety net for autocross use. So which way do I go with it?
Dusterbd13-michael said:I'm using it more as an extra sump due to only having a 3 quart pan with capacity as well as a low oil pressure safety net for autocross use. So which way do I go with it?
A remote cable will work fine. I've never experienced issues with leaving the valve open, but you have a momentary overfull condition at startup until the accumulator refills. To check/fill your oil, valve open, start the car and rev to whatever oil pressure you typically see when cold or at high RPM, shut the valve, set the oil level. The oil in the accumulator should be retained and you can open the valve the next time before you do a cold start and should see the oil pressure on your gauge before you start it. This will also give you an idea of how long your accumulator can supplement a low-pressure event.
Most accumulators have an air pre-charge valve, so plan on keeping access if so-equipped. IIRC I set mine a little lower than typical idle oil pressure (I figured if it were higher it would discharge all of its oil back to the sump at stop signs or lights.) My accusump would eventually lose it's air precharge, so resetting is was part of the prep routine.
In reply to Tyler H :
You mentioned that a momentary over full conditioner leaving the valve open. With the remote oil filter and remote oil cooler would that starve the engine of oil for too long? Or again am I overthinking it?
I like the look of the solenoid valve curtis linked
Patrick said:I like the look of the solenoid valve curtis linked
Oh E36 M3. I missed that. Need to see if I can find one in 5/8 and get it on order
What is this car for? Road racing? If so I would NEVER put the accumulator where you are thinking of putting it. Rubbing is racing and you seem to be placing it in an area of the car that it can get damaged rather easily. A minor off could end your weekend or worse destroy your motor instead of you just backing up and getting going again.
These things only give you a couple seconds of supplemental oil pressure before they run dry. They will empty really fast if damaged and/or if a line brakes. At WOT it is almost impossible to shut the motor off fast enough before it pumps all the oil out of it if a accumulator line of the accumulator brakes.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Pay close attention to the actual orifice size. If you were doing just a pressure tank, any size will do, but since you're going in/out flow as a capacity sump, make sure you shop by actual orifice size, not NPT size.
Some of my 1/2" solenoid valves only have a 1/4" orifice at the valve seat. Others are full flow.
In reply to dean1484 :
Autocross only at this time. And it's a street driven car in addition which is why I cannot put it in the interior or trunk. Due to the engine swap I had to cut down pan capacity and there is very limited room in the trans tunnel to run an additional line there either. So unfortunately where I'm going to put it is about the only place to put it.
Curtis said:In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Pay close attention to the actual orifice size. If you were doing just a pressure tank, any size will do, but since you're going in/out flow as a capacity sump, make sure you shop by actual orifice size, not NPT size.
Some of my 1/2" solenoid valves only have a 1/4" orifice at the valve seat. Others are full flow.
The whole system will be plumbed with 5/8 hydraulic line and fittings. It's a lot cheaper than - 10 a n Stuff around here. Also figured it'll be lighter and easier to work with. Do you have a recommended valve for this application?
Autocross you should be ok. I am use to prepping cars for endurance racing. People tend to bounce off other cars and stationary objects more in 6, 8, 12 and 24 hour races. 
Dusterbd13-michael said:In reply to Tyler H :
You mentioned that a momentary over full conditioner leaving the valve open. With the remote oil filter and remote oil cooler would that starve the engine of oil for too long?
No, the opposite. The sump will have too much oil in it at startup if you leave the valve open, just until the accumulator repressurizes. So it could be 2+ quarts high at startup. Whether or not that's a problem depends on the car. The oil pump will make enough pressure to see oil pressure immediately, it will just be too full for a few seconds until the accumulator is filled.
Dusterbd13-michael said:Curtis said:In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Pay close attention to the actual orifice size. If you were doing just a pressure tank, any size will do, but since you're going in/out flow as a capacity sump, make sure you shop by actual orifice size, not NPT size.
Some of my 1/2" solenoid valves only have a 1/4" orifice at the valve seat. Others are full flow.
The whole system will be plumbed with 5/8 hydraulic line and fittings. It's a lot cheaper than - 10 a n Stuff around here. Also figured it'll be lighter and easier to work with. Do you have a recommended valve for this application?
This one is the one I'd do. (maybe same as link above). The 1/2" NPT fittings are actually about 3/4 in diameter, and the flow orifice in the valve is 16mm, which is a wee bit over 5/8".
Double check the specs on the cSt/flow and make sure it will work. I would use this on a track rat or DD/commuter. The description says "don't use for more than 8 hours straight... coil heat, etc"
It's important to note that it is a solenoid valve, not a servo. In order to stay open, it energizes a magnetic coil and keeps taking 1.7A as long as it's open. If you wish, you could to this two wire servo ball valve for about the same money. Verify that it is the correct application, but I think that is correct.
2-wire servo valves (in most situations) open when you apply voltage, they hit a limit switch and stop taking juice. Then (somehow) when they stop getting power they revert to closed. Three wire servos typically you apply 12v to one wire and it opens, then apply 12v to the other wire and it closes.
Either way, looks like under $40 will get you the electric valve you need, and apologies for the rabbit hole I just pointed out.
Get hood pins or aero latches and use the hood release
Semi trucks use a simple cable pull valve to drain water from the air tanks without crawling underneath. They are pretty bullet proof.
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