Remote shifter for challenge build.

I am going to need to make a remote shifter on a challenge budget. 
 

what is a good way to do this? It will be a AR5 from a Colorado into a Mercedes 190e.  

Is there a best way?

Is there a cheapest way? 
 

I have found some different examples:

in the picture above what is the hardware at the bottom of C? And is that just a bolt that goes through it? 
 

I haven't done much fabrication so anything helps. 
thanks. 

Heim joint, and yes, just a bolt through it.

Also known as a spherical rod end.

That's a rod end.  Looks like you could build that out of a 3/8 rod end and some scrap.

How far do you need to go back?  I'd rather do a solid shifter than all those joints.

Two electronically activated rams. Attached to a ratcheting mechanism. Controlled by paddles on the steering wheel. For extra design points! 

Edit. Obviously for an auto trans (cheaper option?) Challenge enterant.

So, i had to move the shifter about 5 inches rearward in my miata challenge car. 

I just cut the stick in half, used a piece of 1x1 square tube and made a z shape. I adjusted the angles a little off of vertical on the ends so it felt better in my hand while running through the gears. 

This guy figured it out nice and cheaply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmB-lUfTZs

BarryNorman said:

Two electronically activated rams. Attached to a ratcheting mechanism. Controlled by paddles on the steering wheel. For extra design points! 

Edit. Obviously for an auto trans (cheaper option?) Challenge enterant.

I have thought of a manual trans version.  X and Z rams. Three positions each. Another ram for the clutch. Needs a controller but yeah paddle shift T5. 

bearmtnmartin said:

This guy figured it out nice and cheaply.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmB-lUfTZs

Wow, that's a nice looking finished product. 

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

I don't know for sure yet, but I probably need to go back 10"-12". 

In reply to bearmtnmartin :

Thanks. That might be the winner. I think I may have some parts to make that from the donor car. 

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

Chairslayer on Hoonigan showed off his car's hand control setup. It had exactly that but for a T56. All controlled with his left hand.

Talk to the guys that build Formula V cars - they are experts at creating long circuitous but effective remote shifters.

Is it not possible to use an AR5 out of a Kappa or Toyota, rather than a Colorado? Their shifter is already at the tail end of the trans?  At least that would get you part way there.

You might also call DDMWorks as they do the Polaris Slingshot and may have info or core trans around.  Ask for Dave.

Cheapest way? Get a ball joint and weld a shifter handle to it...then bolt the connecting rod through the shifter stub on one side and the shifter handle on the other...mount the ball joint on some type of plate.

My MG i basicaly did the same thing that in that Youtube video.

The trick with these is to make sure you have a large surface area at the joints to resist the twist in the link.  You can achieve this by having a larger plate with a simple hole in it, or use a longer bushing like youtube guy did.  I used a brass 1/2" OD x 1/4 ID bushing (From Home Depot)  and JB weld glued it into the closest size piece of weldable tube I could get.  You could leave the bushing out if you use a larger flange instead.    Here is mine (I started the video link at the brief 10 seconds I talk about it, and show it working).

The 2nd picture in the original post is of a remote shifter I fabricated for the G10 Miata.  This setup had a great feel to it and was accurate.  The only issue I had was there was some vibrations from the transmission that were amplified by the shifter.

In reply to wspohn :

thanks for the info, I could have used a different AR5, I am trying to build a challenge car and every dollar counts, the Colorado one I got for $150. 

In reply to nocones :

thanks is this the type of bushing you are talking about?

and is this where you used it? 

I appreciate all this good input, as I am trying to learn this stuff and it takes me a while to understand. 

In reply to Doc Brown :

Thanks good info. Did you make or buy the piece that clamps on to the actual shifter rod? 
 

In reply to Somebeach (Forum Supporter) :

The chunk of aluminum was fabricated with a hack saw, drill press and a mill.

The thing you are pointing at on mine is the Rod End.  The bushings are in the bolts that are attached to each end of the link.  My trans side bracket I just welded onto the stock shifter. 

For mine I used these as the bushings (~$1.00)

Olite-bronze-plain-bearing-McMaster-carr

The pivot is a 3/8 rod end ($2.99-4.50)

Rod-end-McMaster-Carr

Speedway motors has the best price on rod ends.  I just realized I actually used a piece of 3/8ID tube for the shifter and welded a 3/8-24 nut onto the bottom of it.  

The Olite bushings are available at most hardware stores in the little misc faster drawers.  I can't find them on Home Depot online stuff but usually ACE, Rural King, Tractor Supply, or the like have them.

For ultimate precision use 1/4" shaft shoulder bolts as the pivot.  It will cost a little more (Shoulder bolts are around $1.50 each instead of basically free for regular 1/4" bolts).  Mine uses regular bolts but relies on the plate surface area for some of the torsional rigidity.

I can take it appart and get some more detailed pictures if youd like.

In reply to nocones :

Thanks. The information helps. No need to take it apart now just to take pictures for me. I appreciate the offer though. I still have several steps before I start building the shifter. I think I have the general idea. 

I have a couple of no budget impact options from the donor car. Not sure which to use. 
 

I guess this is what I was thinking 

yellow arrow through floor with a washer and nut. 
 

then both red arrows would need bolt, nut and bushing? 

anything I am missing? 

also any ideas on a automatic Saab 9-3 for things to use as bushings? 
 

Tie rod end is a brilliant idea.  Should work great.  I would weld a plate on to both rods for your link pivots but it seems like you got the right idea.  You can go lower for the link locations.  You can also use slightly different heights to adjust the shift length to make it a quicker shift or longer.   

In reply to nocones : thanks for the help!