The spot weld came loose on one side.
While I could fill it with a bunch of dry ice to displace any oxygen, I don't weld. Self tapping screws would let fumes escape.
Trash it? It's about a $50 can.
The spot weld came loose on one side.
While I could fill it with a bunch of dry ice to displace any oxygen, I don't weld. Self tapping screws would let fumes escape.
Trash it? It's about a $50 can.
Pop rivit? Apply the gas tank jb weld stuff to the mating surface that was factory welded before popping the rivit
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
I thought about pop rivets, although the J-B weld gas tank sealer didn't occur to me. The holes in the pop rivets after they are installed was why I ruled them out.
I suppose that I could use the JB weld to seal the holes in the pop rivets when I'm done.
I think I would still put dry ice in the can if I'm going to drill into it.
Wash it out until it doesn't smell like gas anymore and weld it as soon as you are done washing.
Nut cert and some epoxy to seal the threads.
They go in just like a pop rivet and leave a threaded hole in place. Once you have the tool you keep finding uses for it.
Hmmmmm...... After seeing the damage to my buddy's shop from grinder sparks hitting a waste oil tank, I could easily be talked out of welding.
10-32 or so stainless carriage bolt with a fender washer and rubber gasket up against the flat head.
Drill a hole through the old rivet and the tank, use a mirror-flashlight-long skinny pliers-coat hanger thingie to insert the bolt from the inside, then grab the threaded part when it pops through the rivet hole.
Ease a nut onto it, grab the extra threads with a vise grip, tighten, cut off excess threads.
Take video, 
I need to learn some new swear words.
Pop rivets with no through hole are a standard item, use them exclusively for aluminum chassis construction. See McMaster Carr catalog. They are not expensive, and much stronger than the through hole kind at Lowdepot.
AIUI, rivets (including pop rivets) are designed to be loaded in shear, not in tension. I don't know that it would be strong enough to keep the handle on.
3/16 closed end pop rivets will work, but a bit of seepage might happen. A bit RTV between the handle and the tank might seal it. Inserts could be used, but then the handle would need to be completely removed for access.
Until now, I didn't know there were closed pop rivets.
I found a site that sells closed end self sealing rivets.
Hanson’s Closed-End rivets prevent the passage of vapor or liquid through the set rivet. They also provide 100% mandrel retention. This means the head of the mandrel that breaks off stays in the set rivet. This assures that it won’t fall into your assembly and rattle around or short out electronics
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