Rough shifting in Honda Accord--transmission flush or no? (Automatic)

Automatic transmissions are kind of new to me. I've only owned a few, and they've all been relatively low mileage.

I just bought a 200k mile 1998 Accord last night. It is pretty rough shifting between P/R/N/D. It shifts alright when in gear, but when you're taking it into or out of gear it isn't happy. My first thought was that I should do a transmission flush. Then I remembered something from High School Shop where our teacher told us that if the maintenance hasn't been kept up, it is often better to NOT touch the fluid in there if it is still in there. Does that hold any water or should I proceed as originally planned?

And I'm not putting too much money into this thing--a rebuild or replacement isn't happening.

Don't flush, just change the fluid and filter. Be very careful about the fluid level.

Use the proper fluid, preferably synthetic if possible (Redline makes a nice ATF fluid that has helped our Toyota's transaxle stay happy over 200k)

I would guess the motor and transaxle mounts are getting tired in that car and could be contributing to the problems you're seeing, worth checking while you're poking around under the hood.

I'm not sure if there are external adjustments available for the cables on that p, but that's another potential item to check.

I'm assuming you've picked up at least a Haynes manual for the car by now.

Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote: Don't flush, just change the fluid and filter. Be very careful about the fluid level. Use the proper fluid, preferably synthetic if possible (Redline makes a nice ATF fluid that has helped our Toyota's transaxle stay happy over 200k) I would guess the motor and transaxle mounts are getting tired in that car and could be contributing to the problems you're seeing, worth checking while you're poking around under the hood. I'm not sure if there are external adjustments available for the cables on that p, but that's another potential item to check. I'm assuming you've picked up at least a Haynes manual for the car by now.

Not yet. I've got it on hold at my library. I'm shocked it was checked out; I should probably just buy the damn thing.

In reply to mtn:

You should. When you sell/donate the car, make sure it goes with it. The next owner/victim will appreciate it.

I'll check the used book store today, then head to amazon if they don't have it.

Check the local FLAPS, they often have them in stock and you'll want to get some fluid and a filter anyway.

that is also the era of E36 M3ty auto transmissions from Honda. Used ones are non-existent.

I had an ex-girlfriend with a 2000 Accord with the V6. Same issue, I topped off the fluid, problem got progressively worse. Ended up putting a new slush box in, then that one failed.

My experience with my 1993 Accord was that the transmission was sensitive to the type of fluid used. When I first got it, I let a shop talk me into a fluid flush and they put whatever random stuff in that Firestone uses. The transmission was fine but felt a little tired. A while later I read about their choosiness with fluids and changed to genuine Honda ATF. It shifted more crisply and drove quite differently. I'm sure there are acceptable aftermarket fluids, but I don't know what they are.

Don't do a power flush - those can be problematic. But most of the old dogma about "don't change old transmission fluid" comes from people that had transmission problems, changed the fluid, then - surprise surprise! - the transmission went out some time later. It wasn't the fluid change that did it in, it was already on its way out. There's nothing magical about old fluid that will make a transmission keep working.

gradual fluid change over with drain and fills is a lot easier and less shock to the system. Power flushes tend to pull loose all the old varnish, sludge and junk then allows them to clog the little holes here and there.

So consensus is drain and refill with genuine Honda ATF, along with hopes and prayers that it hangs on?

That is what I would do. But do the drain and refill 2-3 times over a few hundred miles as when draining you don't get the fluid that's in the torque converter.

Yep. Don't worry about the filter, it requires transmission disassembly to change it out. If you're going to change the filter you might as well have the transmission rebuilt, not a simple pan drop like a domestic FWD trans.

Doing a little research, I've found that it may be beneficial to NOT baby it and actually drive it like i stole it. I can do that.

So you blew a tranny last night? Still funny to me.

Hahahaha! Not quite. The transmission still operates! It just operates poorly.

So, I drove it again last night. It is slipping more than I originally thought, and when taken on the highway, it falls out of gear unless under acceleration--it did this for the first minute or two.

I'm now considering selling the car as is. To me, the only other option that would really make sense is to rebuild the transmission myself, but that seems like a LOT of effort to get a car that I'm really not crazy about (albeit a very nice appliance). Anyone want a running accord coupe with small issues (pcv, rear brakes need attention) and one big one (transmission)? Brand new battery!

On the other hand, I'll probably just run it until the transmission eats itself completely. We'll see how long it goes.

Have you checked the fluid level and condition?

BrokenYugo wrote: Have you checked the fluid level and condition?

No, but I did order 12 quarts of Honda ATF, which seems to be the recommended amount--drain, refill, drain, refill, drain, refill--that apparently is usually around 12 quarts. I also ordered a bottle of Lucas Fix. We'll see how it goes.