Rust repair chemicals

I have a Miata with a bunch of rust. It is NOT going to be fixed properly, it is a $1200 car with some dents and bad bondo by the PO and they made a million of them.

I am however interested in delaying its death if possible. I am not going to grind anything down to bare metal or do thorough prep. I am not going to unbolt subframes or cut out metal to access areas of hidden rust.

Of the various rust converters on the market are any particularly good for spray it and forget it? I can also cover with undercoat or plastidip or rattle can paint.

This caught my eye but is pricey. Anyone used it? http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Corroseal-1-gal-Rust-Converter-Primer-82331/202960541?MERCH=REC--mobileweb_errorpages_rr-2--NA--202960541--N

Well that looks awesome.

On the ugly truck, we did a process with ospho, rusty metal primer, rattle can paint, and then hosed everything down with FluidFilm.

XLR99 wrote: On the ugly truck, we did a process with ospho, rusty metal primer, rattle can paint, and then hosed everything down with FluidFilm.

This is practically the same answer I was going to provide.

I could not find oshpo locally to save my life this summer but did find "Milk Stone remover" at Tractor supply. I put on my respirator and a tyvek suit and rolled under my truck this summer and sprayed it everywhere I could let it sit two days then hosed it off with high pressure then let it dry again it took on a white film. Over that I used gloss black with the hardener also from Tractor supply. It looks great as to how long it will last I'm not sure but the 6 year old factory paint was missing so its got to be better than factory. I've painted several trucks and equipment (at my local dirt track) with the tractor supply paint and when expossed to sun light it will fade and chalk after 2-3 years but thats with zero washing or waxing but as for underside stuff i'm betting 6-10 years before i have to redue.

Toyman01 wrote:

XLR99 wrote: On the ugly truck, we did a process with ospho, rusty metal primer, rattle can paint, and then hosed everything down with FluidFilm.

This is practically the same answer I was going to provide.

Actually, I think it's the answer you provided me last year!

To expand on what 44Dwarf was saying about bunny suits, keep both yourself, and whatever is under the car, covered. My son became enamored of ospho, and started using it on everything he could find, so now we have all these etched spots all over the garage and driveway. The stuff also burns on your skin, and probably really, REALLY burns on your hootus .

We did a POR15 treatment on a Protege5 we bought for my son since they are known to rust in unusual places. It's still too early to tell how it will hold up (although I've heard good things), but it was VERY easy to work with. We brushed it on with a cheap foam brush. I understand it needs a top coat of paint if its being exposed to UV, but since we were doing the underside, we were able to do all the wheel wells and a few other parts within the space of an hour or two.

Definitely heed the instructions to keep it off your bare skin and assume it's going to stay on ANYTHING you get it on. My son was fully suited up and was fine. Like an idiot, I did a post job inspection and touched up a few spots. I got to wear it on my hands for about a week and a half.

I've soda blasted, rust bulleted, primed, sanded, reprimed, sanded, top coated, with good results.

Pics of what you are trying to save?

POR is good, but it does rely on the structure still being present and sound.

I tried POR15 on an engine block and after a few weeks I easily peeled off an engine-block shaped paintmould.

I scrapped that block (found out it had a cracked deck) and sprayed the next block, which was also rusty, with Krylon Rust Converter, following the directions even though the directions are a PITA. (Something like 24hr between coats, wait for it to turn black, etc. Read the can.) Then topcoated it with paint. Paint is still solid and not peeling off, since the rust has been Stopped. Just don't hit it with brake cleaner since the paint I used dissolves in solvents. (Woops)

I've also used naval jelly-like product with middling success. Nothing ever as good as the Rust Converter.