Rusted suspension bolts

I have a bolt rusted into a bushing in an aluminum a-arm that I can't drive out. Its in a pocket so I don't think I can get anything in there to cut it off. Any suggestions?

Is the bushing coming out, or can it? I'd probably just replace the whole bushing at that point.

Is the bolt preventing you removing the thing or is it already off the car?

A picture of the situation would be very helpful.

The bolt is stuck in the bushing preventing me from taking anything apart. If I could get in there to cut the bolt out I could take out the a-arm and replace the bushing which is why I am taking it apart.

I am not at home right now to take a picture, but it is a standard a-arm with a bolt going thru the frame, thru the bushing and thru the other side of the frame.

I've used an oxy/ace torch to simply cut through the bushing, sleeve, and bolt.
It's a horrendously stinky prospect, it will make a mess, and the flaming rubber could burn you badly. Be careful if you have to go this route

A Brazing torch with a small tip to heat up The bolt and melt everything. Then un bolt it.

Can you try to melt the bushing by heating up the bolt without damaging the aluminum?

I'm picturing running a current through the bolt until it glows but torch-heating is more practical in theory

Edit: dean beat me to it.

OK, so you've got the nut off it but it's fused inside the bushing? I don't think I've ever encountered one of those so stubborn that it can't be hammered through the bushing or spun with an impact to remove. Getting the bolt nice and hot might break up the crud- PB blaster after heating if it's still not moving.

Part of the problem is I can't get to the head side of the bolt to even turn it to help break it loose. Nuts off and The BF hammer method has not moved it at all. Heat was my next thought. Trying not to destroy the aluminum a-arm.

Now I really feel like I need a picture- you can't get to the head of it? Is it a stud instead of a bolt? Is this arm in single shear?

DrBoost wrote: I've used an oxy/ace torch to simply cut through the bushing, sleeve, and bolt. It's a horrendously stinky prospect, it will make a mess, and the flaming rubber could burn you badly. Be careful if you have to go this route

This. When I was doing suspension and alignment work for a living in Upstate NY. I kept the Oxy/Acetylene torch right next to the alignment rack and used it daily.

Sounds like one of those captured a arm mounts.

Soaking in some sort of penetrate is your best bet.

If you have access to a torch, try heating it up and then holding a candle or paraffin to it. It should suck in the wax and help loosen it. Works really well for nuts and bolts, should be the same in your situation.

What car? I need to visualize it before I can get any ideas.

Heat with a torch to red hot (bolt only), apply beeswax, hoping it will flow into the area in between, beat with a hammer. Repeat. Failing that, can you get a drill at the nut end? Either way, step 1 may be getting a new bolt.

Have you tried an air hammer?

You have to sacrifice something. If you get lucky, its the bolt and the bushing. Does the bolt screw into a captured nut inside the frame? That adds degree of difficulty, and you could end up sacrificing the arm to save the crossmember.

The problem is that you are trying to beat or turn a rusted bolt that is suspended by rubber, which absorbs all the energy the hammer or impact wrench can give. If the bolt screws into a captured nut, start out by attempting to tighten it. You may be able to break the rust bond between the bolt and steel sleeve. Then, back and forth with the impact wrench may get it out eventually.

If its a nut and bolt, get a reciprocating saw blade in at either end and cut through the sleeve and bolt.

Came in to recommend the candle trick, but I see NEALSMO beat me to it. The tricky part is not to overheat it during application, otherwise the wax merely evaporates instead of penetrates. A regular cigarette lighter or match is ideal. No torch.

I hate it when things like that are in pockets, how are you supposed to cut the bolt out when it inevitably rusts to the bushing sleeve?

Oxy will make it talk.

Update:

Heat did nothing, I couldn't get the heat where it was really needed, and no way to turn the bolt effectively. I could have burned out the bushing with a torch, but didn't want to deal with the mess or possibility of a fire and/or possibly ruining the a-arm. I also didn't know even if I completely burned out the rubber if I still could have gotten the steel liner off the bolt.

So what I decided to do was cut it out. I took a razor wheel on a 4-1/2" grinder and cut through the bolt and frame box. I only had to cut through the frame about 2" on both sides of the bushing. I will weld it back up and all will be good.