I've always wanted an RX-7 and this one looks too clean to pass up, especially in the North East. I'm not looking for a project car but I'm going to check this one out. If I buy this for $1500 could I "refresh" the engine and keep it under Challenge budget?
https://capecod.craigslist.org/cto/5992604476.html
A good rebuild kit is going to cost you 1000-1500 and that's assuming you don't need housings.
BoxheadTim wrote: A good rebuild kit is going to cost you 1000-1500 and that's assuming you don't need housings.
Ok, maybe not the deal I thought. For some reason I thought loss of compression was fixable with just replacing apex seals. Guess I might need a refresher on rotary parts.
That sucker is begging for an LS 
In my opinion, non-running old car =$500 or less. Not $1700.
This stuff is getting crazy, Honda and Subaru fans are the leaders of the trend. Routinely see cars with blown motors with asking prices above $5K.
Without clicking the link, let me guess. Blue, 4-lug(probably SE) 88 FC3S in Falmouth. I have a thing for searching RX-7's on CL almost every day. Looks fairly clean, but still too pricey.
Edit: By the way you must live fairly close to me in Carver?
In reply to Mazdax605:
You win! 
ThingWithWheels wrote:BoxheadTim wrote: A good rebuild kit is going to cost you 1000-1500 and that's assuming you don't need housings.Ok, maybe not the deal I thought. For some reason I thought loss of compression was fixable with just replacing apex seals. Guess I might need a refresher on rotary parts.
To get at said apex seals, you're tearing down the engine all the way, which means you'll have to replace all water seals etc already. Also, when you're that deep into the engine, you'll want to replace the side seals and possibly bearings.
So if nothing else is wrong and you're not looking at bearings, you're still looking at something like this kit from Atkins.
Some of the seals can be reused if they're in good condition.
I wouldn't spend money on a 4 lug though.
Mazdax605 wrote: Without clicking the link, let me guess. Blue, 4-lug(probably SE) 88 FC3S in Falmouth. I have a thing for searching RX-7's on CL almost every day. Looks fairly clean, but still too pricey.
Yep! That's the one. It is the base model (SE badge on the fender). I'd love to see if it's as clean as it looks and I think it's on my daily commute anyways. If you do look daily in the area you definitely have a better idea than me what it's worth. What do you think would be a no-brainer price if it is clean?
Ya, I am close by. I'm in Taunton and work in Falmouth.
I would buy this if it were cheaper. I would swap the drivetrain from the 89 TII I have in the back yard. Of course it would be a ton of work with changing all the suspension, and stuff. Of course it would probably require new wiring, or swapping the harness at the very least. So in other words, changing everything on the car.
Do you work at WHOI?
In reply to Mazdax605:
I do work there. Have you done work down this way?
I work on the Vineyard twice a month, and also do a lot of work in Falmouth as well. My friend Steve works at WHOI as well. Also my friend Scott used to work for Webb Research(now Teledyne I think?), so I would be down visting with him from time to time in Technology Park. I coach youth hockey, and we play sometimes at the new rink in the park as well. I spend a lot of time in Falmouth.
Chris
ThingWithWheels wrote:BoxheadTim wrote: A good rebuild kit is going to cost you 1000-1500 and that's assuming you don't need housings.Ok, maybe not the deal I thought. For some reason I thought loss of compression was fixable with just replacing apex seals. Guess I might need a refresher on rotary parts.
Rule of thumb, if you wait until it completely loses compression, you ate a rotor and a rotor housing. If you rebuild when they are just weak, you MAY be able to get away with just hard seals, assuming that the rotor slots aren't hammered apart (more common with 3mm seal engines than 2mm) and the rotor housings haven't shed mass amounts of chrome (again, very common with 3mm seal engines, haven't yet seen a 2mm seal engine shed chrome)
That car has the benefit of being a 2mm seal engine. Even if it needs parts, you can still find good used on eBay or wherever. Try finding 12A parts sometime... rotors are extremely hard to find and rotor housings turn into bidding wars. I just paid $180 for a lightly flaked 12A rotor housing and I feel like I stole it 
@ chris
It would be easier to weld in the frame piece into the T2 than do all that work.
Oh did I mention I can weld?
As I did the complete T-2 driveline swap in my 86. The only really benefit to a 4 lug car (if it is an 86) is that they are significantly lighter than the later cars BUT once you add in all the HD driveline stuff from a T-2 you basically negate the lightness of the early 86 4 lug cars.
If you know whats exactly wrong you can do a rebuild with spare parts for under a few hundred but you have to open the engine up to find out.
If it has sucked a seal you will more than likely need housings. A bore scope would be helpful. Or at least a mirror to look through the plug holes to see the apex seals.
That car does photo very well. I like the color. But not worth the price. The only possible way it I worth ot is if it was not driven much and the seals ate gummed up and stuck.
In reply to dean1484:
That is helpful to know. I don't have a scope but think I know where I can get one.
My assumption is that the owner is retired and doesn't drive the car much. The area has lots of retirees and the green plate makes me believe that too. Curious how they know one rotor lost compression though. Doesn't this require a special compression tester to know?
It is possible that the seals are gummed up, but that is a best case scenario.
Rotary aviation used to have a soft seal only kit that was pretty affordable. It may be worth checking if they still do
In reply to ThingWithWheels:
For an exact measurement to determine if it's rebuild time, yes.
To figure out if it's got any compression, IIRC a boinger compression tester with the check valve removed will work.
I have 2 good engines and transmissions sitting in my garage right now if anybody needs one.
They are both S5 engines with all S4 manifolds and sensors. No emissions equipment installed..
Just heard back from the seller. He took a deposit on the car but he will get back to me if it falls through. Probably for the best.
Brett_Murphy wrote: Rotary aviation used to have a soft seal only kit that was pretty affordable. It may be worth checking if they still do
Well sure, if you like spending money.
$20 will buy you enough Viton and neoprene cord to make your own inner and outer coolant seals. Viton for the inner, neoprene for the outer. You can superglue the ends together or you can just leave them floating. My current engine has ridiculous miles and 4 1/2 years of service with the ends just floating, no coolant leak external or internal.
I used to use 18 gauge electrical wire. I had issues with burning it out on subzero cold starts (oddly enough, wire insulation is not designed to be pliable) so I sucked it up and bought actual O-ring material 
Upper dowel O-rings are just generic O-rings. I forget the number, I just buy 'em at Harbor Freight. Same for the oil filter pedestal O-rings. For the front cover I spend the BIG bucks and buy an RX-8 front cover gasket because it won't blow the oil passage out like an O-ring and gasket can. I make my own intake gasket from a roll of stock I bought for $8 ten years ago and am still working on. Everything else gets Right Stuff sealant, even the exhaust gasket.
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