Since we're talking about electric miatas: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/miata-electric-drive-components/1459076896?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
Since we're talking about electric miatas: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/markham-york-region/miata-electric-drive-components/1459076896?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
I used to regularly get phone calls from Miata EV builders. Invariably, they'd stuffed a motor on to the front of the transmission, thrown a bunch of lead acid batteries in the car and then discovered that the stock suspension was not going to work. They'd call me up asking for a cheap suspension that would make it marginally streetable again. They were clearly not interested in performance, they'd chosen a light car with easy packaging. The weight and balance numbers varied wildly.
These calls dried up about the time that legitimate EVs like the first-gen Leaf became available from manufacturers. But people's priorities are changing now, and the availability of OE power and battery packs has changed the game. Now you're not making a shopping cart with 25 miles of range at 40 mph, you can build a performance car. Interest is back up but I haven't had another suspension phone call yet :)
There was one successful competition electric Miata built by a high school. We were a sponsor - it was really nice work. I'll pull up their name if I remember to look when I'm at work.
Dave M said:Kreb said:In reply to triumph7 :
The whole electric thing is something of a hijack. I just wanted to take issue with the "Tesla performance for $10K" claim. Maybe if you don't care about refinement, longevity or weight and have a remarkable skill set. But for us mere mortals.....
Right, can you even get a Tesla battery for 10k?
Depends on which one you buy. EVWest has the smart EV packs for ~$780 a pop, and the full Model S/X packs for $1,500 each.
I've seen others sell those S/X packs for as low as the ~$700 but with EVWest, you're also paying for enthusiasts with a test bench and a warranty.
penultimeta said:I still don't think EV is a legitimate budget option for your typical home tinkerer.
Well it also depends on what you're doing, and what you need for your vehicle. If you're making something like an EV dragster you need high voltage/high current, not high capacity (unless your strip has no electric connections, which is understandable).
Besides, think about what you're comparing this to- the LS, an engine that right now has a written upgrade path for $2,000 to 500HP through Supra injectors and Chinese Turbos on Jalopnik. That's a pretty mad comparison by ANY engine.
There are a number of mostly assemble ls swap rx8's on craigs. I drove an LS1 RX8 in Dallas and it was ridiculous. None of the swaps are easy due to canbus but for the effort let's go big.
I was under the impression it would be much easier to backdate to FD turbo rotor ala Dempsey racing. I do love some brap brap, and would me at least reasonably reliable vs the RX8 plant.
In reply to 84FSP :
If you like brap brap, there are people bridge porting the 13B-MSP, as well as a few peripheral port 13B swaps.
I love this thread, but it's really far off base. The OP asked for a simple swap solution to bring an awesome chassis back to life. We have offered everything but.
So here's simple. Ready? Wait for it...
the answer is...
wait for it...
Renesis. Seriously. It's the one swap we never consider for the RX8. As much as we dislike the Wankel, it's the simple answer for the RX8. The car was built for it. It's perfect. And very few of us have ever driven an RX8 with a NEW engine in it.
Factory rebuilds are available for $3K. That plus a $1K chassis puts you in a fantastic car for $4K and an afternoon of work. 230 hp. Complete with a warranty.
It's so simple it's pathetic.
Now, let's hear some more crazy!
The factory rebuilds are that cheap?
In reply to dean1484 :
That's my understanding.
I'm seeing around $4000 plus $1000 core charge with part number N3H302200RV0.
it's still the easy button option
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:I love this thread, but it's really far off base. The OP asked for a simple swap solution to bring an awesome chassis back to life. We have offered everything but.
So here's simple. Ready? Wait for it...
the answer is...
wait for it...
Renesis. Seriously. It's the one swap we never consider for the RX8. As much as we dislike the Wankel, it's the simple answer for the RX8. The car was built for it. It's perfect. And very few of us have ever driven an RX8 with a NEW engine in it.
Factory rebuilds are available for $3K. That plus a $1K chassis puts you in a fantastic car for $4K and an afternoon of work. 230 hp. Complete with a warranty.
It's so simple it's pathetic.
I can't believe there isn't a well documented way to transplant the NC engine since they share a chassis.
In reply to OHSCrifle :
Well, it's a loss of 50 hp, plus Canbus...
Yeah, nobody wants the end result. The engine literally bolts in although you have to weld up a PPF. The RX8/NC platform has very limited CAN so that wouldn't be a challenge to do, especially since they already speak the same corporate language. I suspect it would actually be quite easy electrically.
In the end, though, remember that you can get the same chassis in a lighter form that already has the MZR installed from the factory. So what's the motivation to swap an RX8?
Keith Tanner said:In the end, though, remember that you can get the same chassis in a lighter form that already has the MZR installed from the factory. So what's the motivation to swap an RX8?
It would be interesting to know if the stiffer chassis and lower drag could offset the weight in a pure race car environment, but I agree on the MZR being uninteresting in an RX8. It takes semi-heroic efforts to turn an NC engine up to the power levels of a stock RENESIS (which is already generally viewed as being inadequate).
I dunno, this one is pretty cool: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/an-rx-8-is-just-a-long-miata-rx-8-turbo-mzr-autocr/161405/page1/
Keith Tanner said:Yeah, nobody wants the end result. The engine literally bolts in although you have to weld up a PPF. The RX8/NC platform has very limited CAN so that wouldn't be a challenge to do, especially since they already speak the same corporate language. I suspect it would actually be quite easy electrically.
The driveshaft would have to be sorted too. The RX-8 and MX-5 technically shared the same transmission, but it was more like transmission family. I have not looked and the parts fiche myself, but on good authority not only are the input and output splines different (RX-8 is one spline larger, same as Turbo II/FD) but all of the bearings inside the cases are larger, so you don't even get the luxury of playing musical cases to put the front of an MX-5 trans on an RX-8 unit.
In the end, though, remember that you can get the same chassis in a lighter form that already has the MZR installed from the factory. So what's the motivation to swap an RX8?
It's not a convertible.
Ah, changing driveshaft length is so simple as not to be a factor :)
Seems it would be easier to bolt a hardtop on an NC than swap an MZR into an RX8.
codrus (Forum Supporter) said:Keith Tanner said:In the end, though, remember that you can get the same chassis in a lighter form that already has the MZR installed from the factory. So what's the motivation to swap an RX8?
It would be interesting to know if the stiffer chassis and lower drag could offset the weight in a pure race car environment, but I agree on the MZR being uninteresting in an RX8. It takes semi-heroic efforts to turn an NC engine up to the power levels of a stock RENESIS (which is already generally viewed as being inadequate).
Cams and a 2.5 should get you well past the 13B-MSP.
I love rotaries but a stock RX-8 is a gutless pig. It is a heavy car and the lack of port overlap kills the potential to get midrange torque.
SVreX (Forum Supporter) said:I love this thread, but it's really far off base. The OP asked for a simple swap solution to bring an awesome chassis back to life. We have offered everything but.
So here's simple. Ready? Wait for it...
the answer is...
wait for it...
Renesis. Seriously. It's the one swap we never consider for the RX8. As much as we dislike the Wankel, it's the simple answer for the RX8. The car was built for it. It's perfect. And very few of us have ever driven an RX8 with a NEW engine in it.
Factory rebuilds are available for $3K. That plus a $1K chassis puts you in a fantastic car for $4K and an afternoon of work. 230 hp. Complete with a warranty.
It's so simple it's pathetic.
No torque. They need rebuilt often and fail more catastrophically than the older 13bs.
They don't make anywhere near 230hp. More like a super strong one is about 190 iirc.
I do hear ya though. I bought one with a complete blown up engine. I am gonna be spending about 4k in addition to the 1k for the car to have a car with 240 hp, 240 tq. Although I haven't figured out how to get cruise control to work.
Keith Tanner said:Ah, changing driveshaft length is so simple as not to be a factor :)
Seems it would be easier to bolt a hardtop on an NC than swap an MZR into an RX8.
Bolting on a hardtop gives you a convertible with a hardtop, it still has the tight interior and small trunk.
I'm not saying an RX-8 is cavernous, but an NC makes it look that way in comparison.
I mean, if you want a SUV, you can get those with the MZR too :)
Keith Tanner said:Yeah, nobody wants the end result. The engine literally bolts in although you have to weld up a PPF. The RX8/NC platform has very limited CAN so that wouldn't be a challenge to do, especially since they already speak the same corporate language. I suspect it would actually be quite easy electrically.
In the end, though, remember that you can get the same chassis in a lighter form that already has the MZR installed from the factory. So what's the motivation to swap an RX8?
Simple. I'm 6'-5" tall and don't fit in any Miata. And RX8 are being cast aside as broken, thus inexpensive.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:Cams and a 2.5 should get you well past the 13B-MSP.
Cams, an umodified 2.5, and simple bolt-ons seem to get you 180ish rwhp. I've seen some 2.5 NCs doing low 200s, but they all seem to have high compression pistons and a bunch of head work.
Googling for dyno sheets, a stock (new) RENESIS is about 190?
And yes, forced induction changes a bunch of things, but I think that's kind of outside the realm of simple motor swaps.
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