S-10 what to do with it

John Brown wrote:

Wally wrote:

novaderrik wrote: get a transaxle and 500" engine out of an old Caddy and mount it in the back.. hide it under a Tonneau cover and you've got the ultimate hot rod.

Put one under the front too.

and a propeller out the top so you can fly it and some pontoons under it and a camper shell... you know make it an Autocopterboathome

then enter it in a LeMons race.. i can almost guarantee no penalty laps..

posted this yesterday on another forum...

got it yesterday... spent a little time on it today...

interior is a huge mess... tons of crap in there.

also brought home the home made engine lift that my grandfather in law built who knows how long ago... looks like I'll need to replace some O rings prob... and also my engine stand.

had a few rats nests built on top of the engine but i'd removed the big ones before these pics... removed the TB cover and vacumued out the engine bay to get it ready to be worked on... this is the worse of the damage that I can see from the rats... some wires chewed... nothing 10-20 min of soldering can't fix.

the real fun part... the window was off the track so i took off the door panel and found the regulator wheel was off the track... so removed the track so I could connect it to the regulator itself... apparently when bolting it back together i didn't get it lined up perfectly... while tightening the bolts the window shattered...

so gota make some calls to find out the cheapest way to find a window... thankfully s10's are about as common as dirt around here... then i can wash the thing...

I hope to have it running without much time... need a battery still... and as I recall it needs a fuel pump... not to mention all the work involved getting a car running after it's sat for 5+ years lol<img

so today found out a friend has a 307 sitting around in the garage... going to see what he wants for it... still would prefer a boosted smaller engine lol...

oh also found out some history of the truck... was bought by my grandpa in law from the pace water supply (local towns water company) back in '87... the truck had a HUGE amount of paperwork/maintenance receipts n stuff... will actually look though it soon... but i'd rather play with the truck lol

That brings back a lot of memories.

My first truck was a blue contractors special, 86 S10 that I eventually painted white with tremclad, and a wagner electric gun. I put 400k on that truck. It was one of my all time favourite vehicles.

If that's a Chev 307, drop the crank in a 350 block, get some cast flat tops, and you have instant large journal 327

donalson wrote: so gota make some calls to find out the cheapest way to find a window... thankfully s10's are about as common as dirt around here... then i can wash the thing...

i recommend buying a complete door. as you learned, messing with glass is a PITA

Zomby woof wrote: That brings back a lot of memories. My first truck was a blue contractors special, 86 S10 that I eventually painted white with tremclad, and a wagner electric gun. I put 400k on that truck. It was one of my all time favourite vehicles. If that's a Chev 307, drop the crank in a 350 block, get some cast flat tops, and you have instant large journal 327

My SBC powered 87 ext cab made it into Truckin magazine back in the day. It wasn't as fun as my V8 Rangers but it was tidy.

homemade engine hoist....from back in the day when engine hoists cost some coin

in other words pre-China

V8's are nice, but I really like this 2.2 Ecotec swap:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f105/2-2l-ecotec-in-1st-gen-near-complete-pics-416552

Zomby woof wrote: That brings back a lot of memories. My first truck was a blue contractors special, 86 S10 that I eventually painted white with tremclad, and a wagner electric gun. I put 400k on that truck. It was one of my all time favourite vehicles. If that's a Chev 307, drop the crank in a 350 block, get some cast flat tops, and you have instant large journal 327

nope- the 307 crank in a 350 block would give you a Chevy style 327.. a 350 crank in the 307 block makes a 328, which might be kind of fun with the bigger stroke and small bore, but pistons will be fun to find... i've heard of circle track guys running 400 cranks in the 307 block, so maybe there are some cheap claimer pistons for that..

i'd just throw the 307 in as-is. i've got a stock 71 307 in my 3/4 ton truck, and it does alright. not a lot of torque with 2 tons of scrap i nthe back, but it does ok empty. would probably move a 2wd S10 around pretty good and still get good mileage as long as you don't have 4.10 gears.

a401cj wrote: homemade engine hoist....from back in the day when engine hoists cost some coin in other words pre-China

lol... he owned an appliance repair shop... he passed some years back... but I recall the nut cracker he built that has a nut cracker attached to a motor of some sort... they had pecans (i think) on their land and he got tired of cracking em... the hoist isn't pretty but it works lol... no idea how old it is...

also grabbed an old bench vise... even has "MADE IN U.S.A." on it... how odd lol...

oh and for gears... as I understand it I should have the 4.10 rear end... 2.5L I4 + auto trans got the 4.10 from what i've found... i'm sure there is a proper way based on tags and stuff but I don't know it lol don't care at the moment just want it cleaned up and running

I have always loved the Iron duke engine... Maybe Slow but is strong as sin... I have heard that these motors love boost also...

she runs... it's rough... but it runs... compression test and exhaust repair to come soon

novaderrik wrote: nope- the 307 crank in a 350 block would give you a Chevy style 327.. a 350 crank in the 307 block makes a 328...

You do realize that this doesn't make any sense, right? They'd be the same size, just juggled bore & stroke dimensions, but it's going to come out at 327 either way.

welp compression numbers tell me why its so rough... on a cold engine 110-0-0-110

it's going to sit for a bit while I work on another project... then I have to decide weather i yank the engine out to rip it apart and check the HG or if i just do it while in the car...

pres589 wrote:

novaderrik wrote: nope- the 307 crank in a 350 block would give you a Chevy style 327.. a 350 crank in the 307 block makes a 328...

You do realize that this doesn't make any sense, right? They'd be the same size, just juggled bore & stroke dimensions, but it's going to come out at 327 either way.

maybe, but the 327 combo will act different than the 328 combo. notice how i said "Chevy style 327" when talking about the 307 crank in a 350 block- that's the bore/stroke combo used by Chevy back in the day in the 327's. the 328 would be more of a torque monster than the 327, and not just because of the extra inch of displacement. with that bore and stroke combo, it would almost be like the 5.3 (325) in the newer trucks.

do you also think a Ford 427 is the same as a 428? the bores and strokes add up to about the same and they are in the same engine family, and yet they act like totally different beasts.

donalson wrote: welp compression numbers tell me why its so rough... on a cold engine 110-0-0-110 it's going to sit for a bit while I work on another project... then I have to decide weather i yank the engine out to rip it apart and check the HG or if i just do it while in the car...

yank the valve cover and see if you've got a couple of valves that aren't seating. one old trick is to whack the rocker arm with a rubber mallet while the engine is running..

the rubber mallet whacking is to try and get the valve to reseat?

donalson wrote: the rubber mallet whacking is to try and get the valve to reseat?

yeah. it can get them to move if they are seized.. if it's been sitting for a while, a valve or two might have been sitting in the open position and kind of got frozen there. that's why there isn't any compression. you don't need to go all crazy on it, but some nice solid hits with a dead blow or rubber mallet while it's running could just be enough to jar it loose. and it's pretty much free to do, with maybe only a valve cover gasket being needed when you are done.

thanks for the heads up... the duke uses RTV for gasket material so perfect... i'll give it a shot :)

Rust can form on the valve and valve seat if it sat for a long time. The valve will leak and not hold compression. A good running will wear the rust off and seat the valve.

well spent some time on another project so finally got to pulling the head today...

while removing the exhaust manifold bolts I found this... pretty impressive IMHO lol...

and just as I expected right between the cyl 2 and 3

things looked OK in the engine itself...

I was a bit amazed at how big of a PITA they made some of the bolts considering how much room there is total in the engine bay (mostly the bolts at the back of the head)

now i'm a bit torn on weather i just pull everything and start working on a swap I have in mind... on the other hand If i get it back together I can drive it around and work on the suspension before going to the new drivetrain... but I don't know that I want to waste my time with the duke :-/... decisions decisions...

so time is limited so...

it fits like a glove...

woah

cool, I guess. Needs moar powarz!