Saab 9-3 water pump chain cover removal?

I have a busted guides on the accessory chain on my 2010 Saab. I have everything apart and can see the broken guide, however there is ONE long bolt the won't come out. That is the only thing holding me up. Does anyone have a way around this that doesn't included me dropping the engine. I am tempted to cut the bolt but then I have an open hole in my cover and the water pump is only held on with 3 bolts. Very frustrated

The chain is separate from the timing chain and the bolt that is causing me trouble is in the cent er of the cross support on the lower left of the picture

Does "won't come out" mean it's frozen stuck, or that you can't get to the head/pull it out because something blocks it in place? If it's blocked in, Have you pulled the upper motor mount and jacked up from the pan to help clearances?

It is really long and runs into the frame rail. Unfortunately I have to drop the motor 4+ inches to get it low enough to pull out. All the bolts backed out fine, this one is just 6" long.

Dang. What a load of crap. I'd be pissed too, but other than that I have nothing.

Can you reinstall from the other side? If so I'd cut it out.

Does the factory service manual have anything to say about it? The engine will probably drop far enough with all the mounts but the trans mount out, just go slow and keep an eye on all the hoses and wires.

Maybe cut a hole in the frame rail?

Robbie wrote: Maybe cut a hole in the frame rail?

You know you're GRM when you suggest cutting a hole in the frame rail in order to remove a bolt.

Stampie wrote:

Robbie wrote: Maybe cut a hole in the frame rail?

You know you're GRM when you suggest cutting a hole in the frame rail in order to remove a bolt.

This is a common solution I have used on many cars since the 80s when FWD cars came in to the main stream.

The biggest annoyance is that it is an ecotec variant and I found the timing chain info on a cobalt forum. The cobalt has a hole in the rail to take this damn bolt out. Thanks Saab.

I will check the other side of the bolt to see if I can run a smaller bolt from the other side with a nut. If that isn't an option I will start dropping the engine mounts.

Yep, if it's the bolt I thought you were referring to, just remove the top mount and lower away. Makes getting to the other cover bolts super easy as well.

Is that all I need to make it happen? I was concerned it was going to be something more involved than that.

If you search on saabscene.com or saabcentral.com there should be a DIY with pictures on there. Basically you just pull of the inner wheel liner, put a jack with a piece of wood under the oil pan to take the weight, then remove the two piece upper engine mount (I think it had 9 T12 bolts). This gives super easy access to the crank pulley and belt tensioner. Loosen. Rank pulley, pull belt off, remove crank pulley then raise/lower engine to access and remove the timing cover. You may need to unclip the harness in a couple places so as to not put tension on the wires as you go up/down.

Edited to remove brain fart comment that was cleared up once I looked at the thread title again.

One important thing: the oil drain plug sits in a little fairing on the back edge of the pan. Make sure the jack/wood isn't under the fairing. The SAAB fora have stories of people who did and cracked it.

Stampie wrote:

Robbie wrote: Maybe cut a hole in the frame rail?

You know you're GRM when you suggest cutting a hole in the frame rail in order to remove a bolt.

I put a 350 v8 in a chevy monza coupe as a kid. hole sawed the inner fenderwells so i could do plug changes. There was no other way with out a lift and several curse words to get them all.

In reply to ManhattanM (fka NY535iManual):

Yep, I got it all apart and just needed to pull that one last bolt out. I will drop the engine mount and lower the whole thing some night this week. Ordered a balance shaft chain kit and gasket already. Thanks for the info.