A stupid cheap one of these popped up right by my house, and I am sorely tempted. I've never ever owned a SAAB before and I always wanted to. What am I getting into here?
A stupid cheap one of these popped up right by my house, and I am sorely tempted. I've never ever owned a SAAB before and I always wanted to. What am I getting into here?
900 classic or NG 900? Either way it is your typical chain-driven 16v four cylinder (or 8v if it is a real early classic turbo). Not a walk in the park but not a VR6 either, there is decent room to work if nothing else.
The motor's in backwards and the tranny's underneath it. Is it an 8-valve or 16-valve turbo? Is it a classic 900 or "new" 900? Only Elring head gaskets (the SAAB oe) are worth a damn. Check the turbo for wear because there's no water cooling and SAAB original owners are not all that great at changing oil (GRM board members and their families excepted of course). While you have it torn down that far, take the opportunity to replace the front crank seal (the one against the firewall). They leak like sieves. One good thing: It'll be the easiest clutch job you ever do.
That's referred to as the classic 900 or C900 in saabnet.com parlance. it's a 16-valve turbo. saabnet.com is a good place to start. Find the 16-valve Bentley manual for this car. Totally worth it.
I did the HG on my 91 2.1. It was not a hard job, but some of the bolts that hold the head on are a bit hard to get to. I refer to the ones against the firewall that bolt "up" from the block to seal the chain galley.
Otherwise, it was not a horrible job
Buy it - that's a good price.
Post here if you get it; I can puke out a bunch of info on doing this job on a c900.
BTW, that red in '90 will take some work, but it's not clearcoated, IIRC, so you can bring it back.
I've done a few, no big deal. BTW, I don't think that they use torque to yeild bolts. If you want to use new bolts, I would not discourage you, but mine sees 18 psi of turbo pressure & 6000+ rpm regularly on reused bolts. You do need to retorqe the bolts periodically.
IMO, the most enjoyable FWD car to drive of all time.
In reply to Jerry From LA, mad_machine, and HappyAndy:
Thanks!
In reply to procainestart:
I got the original red paint on the Javelin (73) to come back, so yeah, I'm feeling good about my chances on this red.
BTW all, it's a 5-speed manual and $500. Going to look at it tonight.
Look for rust around the battery tray, and under the lower control arm mounts, especially the passengers side.
Good luck.
HappyAndy wrote: I've done a few, no big deal. BTW, I don't think that they use torque to yeild bolts. If you want to use new bolts, I would not discourage you, but mine sees 18 psi of turbo pressure & 6000+ rpm regularly on reused bolts. You do need to retorqe the bolts periodically. IMO, the most enjoyable FWD car to drive of all time.
from when I did the HG on my 2.1. It was torque to spec.. then quarter turn, then quarter turn.. so I think that qualifies as torgue to yeild?
I have a scan of an old (March 1992) Technical Tips brochure for Saab techs that says that, "as a general guideline, the bolts should be used (torqued) no more than 5 times," for B2x2 engines. The brochure also says that there's no other spec, e.g., length; it says only to replace if one exceeds length of the others, is thinner, or cannot be torqued to spec.
The instructions in the following link, by a Saab tech, say that it's rare to find a bolt that can't be re-used:
http://townsendimports.com/Web/engine_folder/headgasket90016v.htm
I've r&r'd headgaskets without replacing the bolts on three c900 Turbos - haven't had any issues yet.
Well, I bought it. It fires right up. Runs okay, but won't idle. Shows no signs of a HG failure. I drag it home tonight.
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