kreb wrote: Stupid question, but do hardtops make that big of a difference? And are there advantages to factory over aftermarket?
After 8 years and three Miatas, I've finally acquired a hardtop ($300 CDN -- score!). I can't believe the difference it makes, both in terms of NVH, and also rear visibility).
skruffy wrote: The rear window is a stupid easy DIY so there's no reason to pay someone else to do that either.
Really? I looked around and heard decidedly mixed results on DIY rear window replacements. It's already taped, and I'd like a quality, permanent fix. I've been quoted $200, so that's not such a tough pill, but I'd be open to a DIY how-to.
You take the old rear window out and put the new one in. You have to drill out and replace a few rivets and remove/reinstall some interior trim, but there's not all that much to it. Just takes an hour or so. It's difficult to find a rear window for the OEM top (or at least it was back when I had a miata) but most of them are on a second aftermarket top by this time anyway. If the zippered part of the OEM top is in good shape (along with the rest of the top) than an upholstery shop can usually sew in a new plastic window for pretty cheap.
I replaced my whole top with a robbins (I think) for like $350. It took about 3 hours to install in my driveway.
kreb wrote:mad_machine wrote: I own one.. so I am biased.. E36 318ti. All the fun of the E30.. the looks of the E36.. light weight (for a BMW) and a HUGE trunk when you open the hatch.Have to say, while I like the general idea of an e30/e36, I don't get the appeal of 4 cylinder Bimmers (e30m3 excepted). You give up that famous I6 smoothness and torque to save what? 100 lbs?
How about 500 pounds? the Ti weighs in around 2700.. the bigger six cylinder cars weigh in around 3200. The 4 cylinder coupes and sedans come in around 3000
The 2.5/2.8's came in about 350# more than the Ti's and the M3's were about 450# more. I've not been much impressed with the Ti's though - though I'd love to test drive one with an M3 swap.
I love driving the Miata with the hardtop on. I think they look great and visibility out the back window is much better than with the soft top up.
I agree with Keith, remove the ratty soft top assembly and you'll have a lighter car with a bit more room on the shelf.
There's also a big difference between the various tops out there. I've had both a Mazda top and a Snugtop. From the outside, they're almost identical. Inside is where you see the differences.
My Snugtop had a headliner that looked like it was made out of boat carpet, it always smelled and the latches were pretty crummy.
My Mazda top is much nicer inside, but to be fair, it's a pretty new one (2004). The newer ones are much nicer than the early ones, which are bare fiberglass inside.
Both of my tops were black. The Snugtop looked like it was molded with black gelcoat and the finish was really nice. The Mazda top was shipped to the dealership in bare fiberglass and was painted by a body shop. It doesn't match the car as well as the Snugtop did, but that's just a reflection of the paint shop's work.
Snugtop is known for making some of the best pickup truck caps on the market (flame away if you wish, but I've heard more good than bad about them). They no longer make Miata hard tops.
I love Miatas with hardtops. Dirty secret time - we never take the top off the Targa car, and Janel's Miata hasn't had the top off for at least a year.
When I bolted the hard top onto my old track car, I removed the latch brackets from the windshield header. Later, they were nearly impossible to get back into their original position because of the rubber seal.
as per E30's the most expensive thing ive had to put on mine was an oilpan due to my own stupidity.
timing belt + water pump + valve adjustment was a recent project, but that is about the same as a miata.
brakes are cheap
tires are cheap
They arent bad, I am just wishing I started with one that was in better shape. (and NOT an automatic 
)
Apexcarver wrote: They arent bad, I am just wishing I started with one that was in better shape. (and NOT an automatic
I have everything you need to fix that problem laying on my basement floor (except the Getrag 260).
nderwater wrote: The 2.5/2.8's came in about 350# more than the Ti's and the M3's were about 450# more. I've not been much impressed with the Ti's though - though I'd love to test drive one with an M3 swap.
Give me 6 months and I will have a 4 cylinder Ti for you try out... I already got the suspension sorted.. just need to bring the body and interior up to snuff and strap on the supercharger
A guy I know built an M3/Ti conversion (suspension, brakes, driveline, the whole nine) but sold it just before I met him. That would be the business!
Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote:Apexcarver wrote: They arent bad, I am just wishing I started with one that was in better shape. (and NOT an automaticI have everything you need to fix that problem laying on my basement floor (except the Getrag 260).
I'm Listening...
list, price?
email is apexcarver AT gmail DOT com
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