SBC content, drilling out pressed-in rocket studs

From the big GMC build thread, I drilled out a broken stud. Now, and of course only now, I recognize that I am not sure where the other end of this hole is going.

Checked on another cylinder before I started, it seemed to stop at the deck, leading me to think that it went to a coolant or oil drain at the worse, and just stopped at the gasket at the best.

But I have heard reference to people running studs when they measure the volume of runners. If mine goes into the intake port, well, that's bad.

Thoughts?

Im confused wgat your asking. If yours goes into a runner you should be able to see it.

If its an early head, it goes to a the vertical wall of the intake port and depending on the casting touches the water passage, and the stud threads need sealed. If it is a later head it goes into the intake port, and need to have the threads sealed.

I always use screw in studs.

It's 1972. I am not sure if that's early or late.

Also, I am putting in new pressed in studs, so I assume they will seal.

The head is still on the engine, and ideally isn't coming off.

I think you are over thinking this. It's a small block chevy. They can ingest birds and still run right.

Suck the port out with a shop vac and run it.

Dusterbd13 wrote: I think you are over thinking this. It's a small block chevy. They can ingest birds and still run right. Suck the port out with a shop vac and run it.

I am definitely leaning towards the "vacuum with a small diameter tube stuck on the end" approach. I just wanted to check and see what I was in for.

I tried calling TunaDad but he yelled at me for not doing screw in studs. I don't think he really understands not-spending at this level. However, he thought it was into the coolant, not the intake. This agrees with Wheels early head idea, though I should be able to tell by putting water in the block.

tuna55 wrote:

Dusterbd13 wrote: I think you are over thinking this. It's a small block chevy. They can ingest birds and still run right. Suck the port out with a shop vac and run it.

I am definitely leaning towards the "vacuum with a small diameter tube stuck on the end" approach. I just wanted to check and see what I was in for. I tried calling TunaDad but he yelled at me for not doing screw in studs. I don't think he really understands not-spending at this level. However, he thought it was into the coolant, not the intake. This agrees with Wheels early head idea, though I should be able to tell by putting water in the block.

I like TunaDad

Vortec heads go into the water jacket if memory serves from when I did mine. Not sure about old ones, but I wouldn't think they're that different. Not sure I understand why it matters though. You want them to be decently sealed regardless.

I would also yell at you for not doing screw in studs. Studs are quite cheap, and it only takes a few hours with a tap and a $20 guide block from Summit to do the job.

gearheadE30 wrote: Vortec heads go into the water jacket if memory serves from when I did mine. Not sure about old ones, but I wouldn't think they're that different. Not sure I understand why it matters though. You want them to be decently sealed regardless. I would also yell at you for not doing screw in studs. Studs are quite cheap, and it only takes a few hours with a tap and a $20 guide block from Summit to do the job.

I am currently doing this on my LT1 Challenge car. If I can do it with a Challenge car budget, you can do it to any other project.

The studs are like $15. You can even make your own guide block. Takes a couple hours with a tap. Use thread sealer. Do it right and never think about it again.

you can take the head off and do it right with screw in studs for the cost of a $35 gasket set and $15 for studs..

The head isn't coming off boys. Stay on topic.