Scion FR-S Questions

I added a 2013 FR-S to the fleet a couple of weeks ago (I know, I need to take & post some pics) and have a few questions for the hive & members that own one of these.

1. Where is the best place to order OEM parts online? From my Answer & 350z experiences there are one or two that stand out with good prices and good customer service, but looking at Toyota forums there doesn't seem to be any clear standouts.

2. Does anyone know if the Techstream cable/software available on evilbay will allow me to program a new key? I've seen indications that this is the case, but no clear confirmation. My car only came with one key and I want to get a spare. Key is $208 list from Toyota but I've found it online for $30 less and the price difference for the key alone would cover the Techstream stuff. This is not including the added cost for programming a key from the dealer. I'm guessing from the dealer the total cost would be at or near $300.

3. What are the best fluids for the manual trans & differential? Thinking Motul 300 from what I'm seeing online (I'm in the SE so it will not experience months of really cold weather). Car is approaching 10k miles and I would like to change the fluids in the spring.

4. What is the long-term effect of clear film paint protection? Will it cause the paint to discolor or other paint issues that are worse than paint chips? We have a 7th gen Celica and the hood was hammered within 2-3 years with paint chips everywhere. We have a big problem with pavement deterioration that results in stones getting kicked up and I already see a few chips in the hood of the FR-S. So I'm wondering if having a film applied to the front end is a worthwhile investment. I plan to keep the car for at least 10 years so without the film I know the hood/front end will be hammered like our Celica, but if the film causes weird or non-matching paint issues it may not be any better.

5. How are you handling the lack of power ports (or crappy location of the two available power ports)? I don't like having cords running past the shifter to the center console and most "normal" plugs force the cupholder to be in the rear position. I've got short legs and placing a drink in the front cupholder within the cupholder thing still forces me to reach backwards around the seat bolster to reach a drink. Also, I expect that there will be instances when I want to plug in 4 devices (GPS, Sat radio, 2 phones) when travelling.

6. Anybody got a good (cheap) source for Garmin compatible USB cables? From what I see online, regular USB A to B cables don't work because Garmin uses the generally ignored 5th contact for authentication.

7. Best and/or cheapest durable finish to make the stock wheels all black? The only thing I don't like about the appearance is the two-tone wheels. Saw a pic on FT86club.com Hot Link? with hydro dipped stock wheels that had a carbon fiber finish and they looked really good. Any idea what this would cost?

OK, I'll shut up for now. I'm sure there will more ? to follow...

Edit:

1. Any opinions on ecu flashes to get rid of the "torque dip" and improve stock performance? Considering a future Open Flash Tablet purchase. Not planning any significant power upgrades, but that doesn't mean plans won't change...

Edit #2 to try & fix hotlink...fail

All I can help you is who to order parts from. I have been buying parts from Greg Meskill at Metro Toyota for almost 20 years with excellent service.

www.metrotoyota.com

They are out of Kalamazoo, Mi.

In reply to Slippery:

Thanks for the link!

TRD Sparks was a good source for my xB stuff, and a little MR2, if I remember. http://www.trdsparks.com/

Super happy with my OFT.

Only reason I'm considering ditching it is so I can have a Flex Fuel kit, instead of having to change the maps all the time.

Best bang-for-the-buck HP wise? Open flash tablet + open flash header + E85 tune = 20whp+, lots more midrange for about $1100.

In reply to Jerry:

Thanks for the link! I'll have to check them out again.

I ordered a few things for our Celica a while back and compared the same parts list on 4 or 5 sites. Sparks was one of the sites I was checking, but I wound up ordering from Westboro Toyota because the total with shipping was the lowest price. That was part of the frustration in that nobody was distinctly cheaper than anybody else and S&H prices were all over the map. It was impossible to see how things were going to end up without just going through the parts list on each site and adding shipping. Relatively time consuming, but I saved about $20 on a $300 order.

In reply to z31maniac:

If you decide to unload the OFT in a few months, post it up here.

After a couple of weeks of ownership I'm not sure if brakes or a tune will be my first expense...

1) Don't forget you really should be looking at Subaru places...the car is a Subaru for all practical purposes (subaru chassis, suspension, motor, interior) - very little actual Toyota content on it (which kind of sucks because you get a Subaru not Toyota quality vehicle...): I get my oil filters from Subaru Online Parts

Toyota wants to charge way more for the same oil filter than Subaru...

2) No idea...

3) The Motul 300 is popular. I'm running Redline MT85 for transmission and Redline 75W90 for differential. Pentosin 75W80 seems highly regarded for the transmission as well. You should have really changed out the fluids after the break in period, especially the differential fluid which will have the bolt magnet coated in metal particles. Shifter fluid not as necessary to change, but will improve shifter feel and action versus the stock fluid even at 1k miles.

4) Mine came from the dealership with protective film applied to top of the front hood/bumper. Nice and clear so far after 3 years.

5) Normal sized adapters for the stock 12V outlets work great for me - have an angled glove box one for charging the phone (which stays in the glove box when I'm driving) and straight console one for my iPod that I use for music through the Auxillary port. iPod is placed in the long slot of the 'cupholder' which is kept in the rear position. I'm 6'2". I don't use the center console for holding drinks - use the door one for water bottles on trips.

6) No idea, I don't use GPS...

7) No idea...

8) Proper headers seem to be the absolute best way to get rid of the torque dip and boost 40whp when tuned at the same time... Emissions would be the only concern here - because most of the good headers are catless. If not doing headers then replacing the factory 'crushed' upper-pipe with a nice aftermarket one and tune seems to be good as well. I'd like to go with an upper-pipe replacement and OFT tune eventually. Just want to make sure enought time has passed and lots of miles have been tested on the tunes before going that route.

Re 4), my 996 looks like it has had good quality paint protection film applied to it quite a while ago. The film hasn't aged that well and I need to get several parts redone, but the paint underneath is in really good shape.

The key here is to use really good quality film, use the cheap E36 M3 is going to make you regret having the film applied.

secretariata wrote: In reply to z31maniac: If you decide to unload the OFT in a few months, post it up here. After a couple of weeks of ownership I'm not sure if brakes or a tune will be my first expense...

Will do, but it likely won't be anytime soon. They pop up on the forums pretty regularly for $400-420 shipped used.

If you have access to E85, I'd probably just save up until you could do the Moto-East tune/flex fuel kit all at once.

What do you think is wrong with the brakes? If you aren't tracking it they are plenty strong from the factory.

Vracer111 wrote: Just want to make sure enought time has passed and lots of miles have been tested on the tunes before going that route.

They already are.

Jackson Racing already has nearly 20k miles on the Supercharger setup and the NA tunes have more time.

As long as you stick with a reputable tuner (OFT, Delicious, Moto-East) you'll be fine.

Interesting study in priorities...I'm an old guy who's interest don't go down the same road as the OP's; zero interest in the ICE or tuning needs. I hear rumors that the car is able to interface with my cell phone and who knows what tricks the dash might be able to play. Could care less. I hear rumours that the car needs more power and has a torque dip. Never noticed either.

I just drive the thing as if it were a new version of my MGB that actually runs and I had just finished stealing it. The only thing I can recommend is new tires with some adhesion; the factory tires really suck.

NOHOME wrote: the factory tires really suck.

Meh, they aren't R-comps but they aren't 800tw winter tires.

Hell, I drove my BRZ to work yesterday in 5" of sleet/snow/ice on the factory tires and made it here just fine. And there were people here in SUVs that didn't show up yesterday because they were "stuck" at home.

lol

The heads can use work.....

The transmission is a new version of The AZ6 used in 4 different vehicles in the early 2000s - Toyota Altrezza /Lexus IS200, Nissan Silvia GT-R, and Mazda's Miata, and RX8.

S15 6 spd 3.626 2.200 1.541 1.213 1.000 0.767 - note 5 of 6 gears same as FRS

NISMO 2.907 1.989 1.537 1.218 1.000 0.862

RX8 6 spd 3.760 2.269 1.645 1.187 1.000 0.843

Miata 6-spd 99- 3.760 2.269 1.645 1.257 1.000 0.843

SXE10 6 sp 3.874 2.175 1.484 1.223 1.000 0.869

TRD(33030-SE100) 3.106 2.175 1.585 1.223 1.000 0.869

FRS - First Gear Ratio 3.626, Second Gear Ratio 2.188, Third Gear Ratio 1.541, Fourth Gear Ratio 1.213, Fifth Gear Ratio 1.000, Sixth Gear Ratio 0.767

In reply to Vracer111:

Thanks for the link to the Subaru parts!

As far as changing the fluids earlier, it may have been done I don't know or have any records. I purchased the car used 2 weeks ago so I want to do the engine, trans, & diff oils very soon.

Upper pipe & OFT tune is kind of what I'm looking at now based on the limited research I've done, but it probably won't be for 8-9 months. Might do the OFT first with a tune for stock and add the upper pipe a few months later. If I have the $ next year a header might enter the mix. No emissions inspection where I am so that isn't a worry at this time (but might happen in the next couple of years as my area is on the verge of non-compliance with Fed air quality requirements).

In reply to z31maniac:

Not planning to go the E85 route at this point.

Brakes on my car have poor initial bite and lack any sensitivity or feel. I think it's like driving an appliance from the 80's. It has brakes that are working or not with no in between, either they are slowing the car at a moderate pace or your foot is not on the brake pedal. I'm thinking a pad change for the front to try and fix this.

In reply to NOHOME:

After driving several different FR-S's, they consistently felt flat in the midrange to me. Not falling completely on it's face, but not living up to expectation. When investigating if this was a problem with a particular vehicle I drove or a "normal" condition I have come to the conclusion it is "normal" and can be addressed. Because most of my driving is on the street, I like having good midrange powah! (mentally insert Clarkson video clip here!)

Stock tires are under performers for ultimate grip, but kinda fun for hooning. I'll wear them out and decide if refinishing the stock rims or replacing the rims will be the route I go. Tire decision will be determined at that point.

secretariata wrote: In reply to z31maniac: Not planning to go the E85 route at this point. Brakes on my car have poor initial bite and lack any sensitivity or feel. I think it's like driving an appliance from the 80's. It has brakes that are working or not with no in between, either they are slowing the car at a moderate pace or your foot is not on the brake pedal. I'm thinking a pad change for the front to try and fix this.

I would not mix pad compounds on an FRS/BRZ being how the EBFD system will react as it assumes the same friction compound front/rear (only way to defeat the EBFD system is to do the 'pedal dance' which will cut all the electrical nannies off for real, except the ABS system. So if changing pads, both axles should really be the same. The stock pads seem okay and very nice in feel except for needing some more bite. I'm on the fence between either upgrading to Ferodo DS2500 or Winmax W3 pads... the Winmax pads would have a little less bite and a little less linearity through the temperature range than the Ferodo pads.

For wheels/tires I'd suggest getting rid of the stock and going with something a little more performance oriented, but not on the track orientated side. I went with a setup I had thought about to bring out the maximum daily driver agility in the car for all conditions (except snow) and I REALLY like it. Changed tire size/compound to 205/45-17 Max Performance tires for both better acceleration, quicker responsiveness, lighter weight, and reduced cost while still maintaining a near stock contact area patch (tread actual has a slightly WIDER contact patch than stock). Went with the Max performance tires (Kumho Sport LE's) and affordable light 17x7.5 +40mm offset wheels (Enkei Fujin) mainly for maximum wet performance and to maximize sidewall support/responsiveness. Dropped over 4lbm unsprung mass a corner and the car not only rides better but is definitely sharper and quicker in responses while feeling much more planted. Plan on trying out the 205/45-17 Continental DW's next as they are even lighter and supposedly a very good wet tire as well.

One thing to consider as well is changing out the soft and non concentric factory steering rack mount bushings to some solid Delrin or aluminum ones. The stock car has a weird mid-turn characteristic when pushing it on sticky tires because the steering rack is moving about. In addition to the softer rubber that is not a solid cross section, the shank of the factory bolts is smaller than the threads and there is a LOT of slop between it and the metal bushing in the center of the rubber mount - like friggen ring a bell with it slop. Best $40 I spent on the FR-S was replacing the factory rubber bushings with solid 2-piece aluminum bushings (with grooves having double Viton O-ring seals for a TIGHT and secure fit) and rightly matched center hole and fastener with thread shank the same diameter as the actual threading. Properly centered and ZERO rack movement...very nice and precise steering all throughout the cornering sequence now.

Turn-in Concept Steering Rack Bushing review...

In reply to secretariata: You could simply buy good quality paint, and paint the wheels. You could plasti-dip them if you may want to change them back. Powdercoating is permanent, but I don't know how pricey that option is, but you may not want that if you're leaning toward a better looking or lighter weight wheel.

In reply to Vracer111:

Those are the same pads I was considering. I haven't found any deals on the Ferodo's...I guess I should consider doing the rears at the same time.

We have the Conti DWS's on SWMBO's 350z and they are very good wet tires. The DW's are on my list of consideration for the FR-S when the time comes.

In reply to Mr_Clutch42:

My only "issue" with the stock wheel right now is the two-tone appearance. I wouldn't mind something lighter but not sure the investment is worthwhile for a street car. Based on my annual mileage I probably have a couple of years to decide if new wheels are in my plans.

secretariata wrote: In reply to Mr_Clutch42: My only "issue" with the stock wheel right now is the two-tone appearance. I wouldn't mind something lighter but not sure the investment is worthwhile for a street car. Based on my annual mileage I probably have a couple of years to decide if new wheels are in my plans.

The stock wheels are kind of heavy for 17x7's..running nearly 21lbs. I have no complaints about the looks of the stock wheels - I think they match great with the body design. But just going with the 17x7.5 Enkei Fujins (17lbs) with the stock tires mounted gave a noticeable improvement in both ride quality (less harshness) and the steering being more precise. Then changing to the 205/45-17 Max Performance Sport LE's brought it to a whole other better level. I think Max Performance tires in near stock size really makes it an excellent all weather handler that is precision honed - much more so than stock. The stock Primacy HPs are not that great in the wet...

I also find that, at least for me, the rear tires wear down twice as fast as the fronts. I was already into the wear bars on the rears with less than 6k miles on the Kumho LE's. I really need to rotate the tires every 3k miles...

In reply to Mr_Clutch42:

What? Actually use paint? How "old school"...

J/K, that is the most GRM way and once spring is here I'll probably do that and paint them with some high temp gloss black. I really just don't care for the two-tone thing more so than the actual look of the wheels. Just thought the look of the hydro dip was interesting if affordable.

Ordered Motul Gear 300 for the trans & diff. I hope it warms up next week so I don't freeze doing the fluid change.

Vracer111, Is that your video of the Quick Jack lifting the blue FR-S? If so, how do you like it so far? I saw the thread here where it seems like there may have been some problems, but also see that FM is now selling them so I'm not sure what to think. I'm going to go the cheap route for the trans & diff fluid change by purchasing a second set of ramps that match the height of the set I currently own so I can get the car level.

My FR-S is not blue (it's Asphalt) but yes I do have a Quick Jack (the larger BL-5000). Initially they sent me the wrong hydraulic unit (I ordered the AC unit and they sent a DC one) and the fittings were a horrible mess (not the right fittings to use for a hydraulic system)... well I couldn't get the fittings to stop leaking by any kind of tightening, so I drained it, dried and cleaned the fittings, and then epoxied all with some old Hysol from work and let it cure for about 3 days before wetting the system again. Zero leaks since then and it works fine. Supposedly they changed the fittings to proper ones, but their documentation and drawing/diagrams still suck.

I won't being going back to jack and jack-stands ever again... can't beat effortlessly getting the car to working height in about a minute, especially when the FR-S isn't the easiest car to get up on jack stands.

How she currently looks with factory exhaust reinstalled (reverse lighting now at the factory turn signal location with the brake lights now also functioning as the turn signals - so I was finally able to get rid of the underwhelming factory reverse light which was in the way of a custom catback central exit exhaust system I'm developing):

You can just see the Quick Jack frames stored underneath the car too...

Highly recommend going with the Diode Dynamics Tail as Turn Kit if you actually want to SEE while backing up (the brake lights being the turn signal was actually the bonus for me instead of the main attraction - I needed a backup lighting solution to be able to delete the factory location one for the custom exhaust system and this was absolutely PERFECT solution!) The XP80 LED bulbs are really nice and insanely bright, but kind of expensive!