If you look at the cheap one it's purposely set up to expose some of the smaller diameter of the thread on the top making it weak. Whereas the expensive one in the second video is tightened all the way down to it's highest strength position. So inasmuch as I think the hammer test itself serves no practical purpose, the two hooks do not receive the same test.
Peabody said:If you look at the cheap one it's purposely set up to expose some of the smaller diameter of the thread on the top making it weak. Whereas the expensive one in the second video is tightened all the way down to it's highest strength position. So inasmuch as I think the hammer test itself serves no practical purpose, the two hooks do not receive the same test.
That's not true, though. Each one was left with about one turn of thread showing, then tightened. The same way they're installed on the car.
Tom Suddard said:
I can tell from this picture the back side that attaches to the car is not stainless steel, probably another steel way stronger than 6061. The front is most likely 303ss which is very easy to machine.
In all honesty, from this picture, the quality of the machining on that 303ss part is nothing to write home about.
I have never seen a tow hook get exclusively used to pull straight on with a smooth controlled motion. They generally get pulled with a side load and get jerked around.
In reply to Peabody :
I think you're seeing what I commented on - on the aluminum one, the male thread is on the extension. On the SS one, it's on the hook portion. That means the jam nut will be in a different place on both.
The cheap one could have been shortened by at least a half turn, you see that in the video during the setup. The choice of threading also means the gap is further from the hook, which means loads (or impacts) from the hook will have more leverage on the weakest point.
drock25too said:ChampCar is doing away with rigid tow hooks this year. Are they the only ones that are doing this? This is from the 2023 rules: Rigid tow hooks that protrude beyond the bumper are strongly discouraged. Effective 01Jul2023 Rigid tow hooks extending beyond the bumper will not be permitted.
David took a Rock to a sword fight. - Casting Crowns song lyrics
I use a flexible tow point on the back of my car. I don't think I've ever had to test it, but it was a lot easier to mount than a rigid one would have been. Sourced from ioport, it's actually pretty close in cost to the cheap one in this test. I feel confident it would hold up to a hammer test :)
https://www.ioportracing.com/i/o-port-products/adjustable-heavy-duty-tow-strap-with-ring-i/o-port/
This whole discussion is why I use old seatbelts or braided cable for tow loops. Cheap, functional, light. Flat Tow Bob (that's a term of endearment) is gonna yank yer ass out of the sand/gravel/tires/woods one way or the other. Hopefully without deploying any airbags, but keep yer helmet on!
I don't care about the flaws in the test, one blow from a hammer exposed that porous, Chinese pot metal (Aluminum?) That's not going to take the forces necessary.
Tyler H said:This whole discussion is why I use old seatbelts or braided cable for tow loops. Cheap, functional, light. Flat Tow Bob (that's a term of endearment) is gonna yank yer ass out of the sand/gravel/tires/woods one way or the other. Hopefully without deploying any airbags, but keep yer helmet on!
I don't care about the flaws in the test, one blow from a hammer exposed that porous, Chinese pot metal (Aluminum?) That's not going to take the forces necessary.
Agreed. A test with a gauge might've been more scientific, but does anyone really doubt just how easily the cheap one broke?
I know you gotta drive those clicks, but is "risky" really the right way to sell a tow hook? None of this really strikes me as particularly safety critical. Maybe sell it more as that cheap one is going to tear up your bumper when it breaks and they have to tie on to your radiator support.
Keith Tanner said:it was a lot easier to mount than a rigid one would have been
That's actually really easy on NAs, because it just bolts on where the rear baby teeth used to go. No need to cut a hole in the bumper! :)
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-3112.html
codrus (Forum Supporter) said:Keith Tanner said:it was a lot easier to mount than a rigid one would have been
That's actually really easy on NAs that haven't had the rear bumper supports cut off for weight savings, because it just bolts on where the rear baby teeth used to go. No need to cut a hole in the bumper! :)
https://flyinmiata.com/products/1990-97-flyin-miata-tow-hook-set
Fixed both the link and the statement for ya :)
I have towed my car several miles with my Amazon special tow hook. It has been used multiple times with no issues.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
Thanks, Keith.
I had picked out these Racequip straps before I watched the video, but I'll keep those in mind.
Is it weird that when I see 034 I trust it about equal to the ebay/amazon one without thinking further. 
Keith Tanner said:codrus (Forum Supporter) said:Keith Tanner said:it was a lot easier to mount than a rigid one would have been
That's actually really easy on NAs that haven't had the rear bumper supports cut off for weight savings, because it just bolts on where the rear baby teeth used to go. No need to cut a hole in the bumper! :)
https://flyinmiata.com/products/1990-97-flyin-miata-tow-hook-set
Fixed both the link and the statement for ya :)
Huh, I searched for those on the FM site first but couldn't find them, weird. :)
In reply to drock25too :
About the only reason I can see to choose one of those over the other is the adjustable length on the ioport for a bit more install flexibility - which also adds something to go wrong if you don't have it strapped up properly, so it might be a downside if you don't need it. They're both from legit sources and if you buy direct from the manufacturer, there's no chance of getting a knockoff.
BA5 said:Tyler H said:This whole discussion is why I use old seatbelts or braided cable for tow loops. Cheap, functional, light. Flat Tow Bob (that's a term of endearment) is gonna yank yer ass out of the sand/gravel/tires/woods one way or the other. Hopefully without deploying any airbags, but keep yer helmet on!
I don't care about the flaws in the test, one blow from a hammer exposed that porous, Chinese pot metal (Aluminum?) That's not going to take the forces necessary.
Agreed. A test with a gauge might've been more scientific, but does anyone really doubt just how easily the cheap one broke?
I know you gotta drive those clicks, but is "risky" really the right way to sell a tow hook? None of this really strikes me as particularly safety critical. Maybe sell it more as that cheap one is going to tear up your bumper when it breaks and they have to tie on to your radiator support.
When the hook breaks, the energy stored in the line has got to go somewhere. What's left of the hook, the tow strap/chain/whatever often yeets right back into the vehicle attempting to move you. I don't want chunks of my car becoming projectiles. That definitely qualifies as risky.
For what it's worth, my Nissan OEM tow hook bent pretty substantially when I got stuck in some snow in college. I replaced it with a cheap eBay hook that did just fine for a tow due to an oil line blowing. I have since switched to straps that have been excellent. My shins certainly prefer the straps.
The test was pretty unscientific and certainly appeared to be biased but did generate clicks and discussion so ultimately a win for GRM.
Next time take a hammer to a tow strap and tell us how it ends up.
Appleseed said:BA5 said:Tyler H said:This whole discussion is why I use old seatbelts or braided cable for tow loops. Cheap, functional, light. Flat Tow Bob (that's a term of endearment) is gonna yank yer ass out of the sand/gravel/tires/woods one way or the other. Hopefully without deploying any airbags, but keep yer helmet on!
I don't care about the flaws in the test, one blow from a hammer exposed that porous, Chinese pot metal (Aluminum?) That's not going to take the forces necessary.
Agreed. A test with a gauge might've been more scientific, but does anyone really doubt just how easily the cheap one broke?
I know you gotta drive those clicks, but is "risky" really the right way to sell a tow hook? None of this really strikes me as particularly safety critical. Maybe sell it more as that cheap one is going to tear up your bumper when it breaks and they have to tie on to your radiator support.
When the hook breaks, the energy stored in the line has got to go somewhere. What's left of the hook, the tow strap/chain/whatever often yeets right back into the vehicle attempting to move you. I don't want chunks of my car becoming projectiles. That definitely qualifies as risky.
Definitely a concern that was very well illustrated recently with a bad recovery accident involving some big 3/4 trucks. Since the yeeting would be into the recovery vehicle, I would expect the extraction crew to actually nope out if they see a tow point they know is fragile. If they're not worried about the black/red chinesium ones, then maybe the risk of breaking in use is pretty low.
350z247 said:My shins certainly prefer the straps.
Years ago I bought an old Buick from a guy who had welded a homebuilt trailer hitch to the frame. It stuck out about a foot behind the bumper. I was sitting in a parking lot wait for my wife one day when I felt the back of the car move. I looked in the mirror to see a guy rolling around on the ground. I got out to check on him and he mumbled, berk you, and hobbled off.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:Is it weird that when I see 034 I trust it about equal to the ebay/amazon one without thinking further.
All of the stuff I have bought from 034 has been top notch.
But it was also all B2 chassis stuff.
drock25too said:ChampCar is doing away with rigid tow hooks this year. Are they the only ones that are doing this? This is from the 2023 rules: Rigid tow hooks that protrude beyond the bumper are strongly discouraged. Effective 01Jul2023 Rigid tow hooks extending beyond the bumper will not be permitted.
After seeing the photos of that car with the gouge in it from a Boxster tow hook ill take the rule change any day of the week.
kevinatfms said:drock25too said:ChampCar is doing away with rigid tow hooks this year. Are they the only ones that are doing this? This is from the 2023 rules: Rigid tow hooks that protrude beyond the bumper are strongly discouraged. Effective 01Jul2023 Rigid tow hooks extending beyond the bumper will not be permitted.
After seeing the photos of that car with the gouge in it from a Boxster tow hook ill take the rule change any day of the week.
Post the pic?
When I had the Samurai I joined a local 4X4 club. Every spring they have an "Offroad 101" day where you go on trail and get refreshed on towing, pulling yourself out etc. Tow strap good, tow HOOKS are banned, they fail way before the strap would and who wants a half pound projectile headed their way?
Also drape a towel over the strap, if it breaks this will slow down its flight considerably.
93gsxturbo said:The test was pretty unscientific and certainly appeared to be biased but did generate clicks and discussion so ultimately a win for GRM.
Next time take a hammer to a tow strap and tell us how it ends up.
Yeah, this. Guess I have higher expectations for GRM
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