Seriously Contemplating a Subaru Swap

Here is the deal:

• I have a low mileage (120 k kms or 75k miles) 2002 WRX with a good motor, COBB AP V1, Lachute SS exhaust). This was a winter car for the PO and now my DD. Problem - rust! and it sits too low. I volunteer at 2-3 performance rallies a year and I am always smacking the bottom of the car on rocks and ruts. I do have a skidplate, but still smack the crap out of the bottom of the car.

• I am seriously contemplating finding a clean Forester with a lunched drivetrain and swapping my WRX drivetrain into it.

I would go over to NAISOC and look there but this board has always been a great resource. So . . .

What years of Forester should I be looking at? Any major issues? This would be a DIY and I am pretty good with the tools. Would I just transfer my 2002 WRX wiring and ECU? I live in an area with no Emissions testing.

Thanks!

Atlanta has a few rust free ones currently. Worth a trip for rust less.

Consider selling your WRX to someone who wants to build an 818, and then buy a Forester XT -- they have a turbocharged 2.5L and shorter gearing than the WRX.

Drivetrain swap into a Forester isn't worth it. Get a Forester XT and swap your skid plate over.

2002-2008 are the years when that engine should swap in. However, the Forester used the 2.5, not the 2.0

Off the top of my head you will need a few things: engine (complete) cross member fuel pump-oem or walbro ECM wiring harness fuel pump controller/solenoid make provisions for a top mount intercooler (xt hood?, holesaw?) or use a fmic

There are a few odds and ends that will need different things depending on which generation of forester you go with such as lower control arms, sway bar, mounts, etc.

It won't help with the rust issue, but have you considered lifting your Impreza? It can be as simple as adding some strut spacers or swapping in Forester struts with some rear camber bolts to correct the geometry. Here is a good overview: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20924

In all cases, it is a lot less work than swapping a drivetrain...

You'd need to swap over your front subframe, which might be one of the rusty bits. You could swap the full wiring harness(fuel pump setup) and dash in, retain the forester transmission if that was ok, or go with your wrx transmission. Turbo forester hood would be needed. Finding a more clean forester and transferring everything may not be worth your time as stated above. Finding a clean forester xt, specifically a 2004 might be the wiser choice.

My 02 wrx rusted out so I feel your pain. If it's not near death, just swap in some taller suspension bits to give you the clearance you want and save yourself a lot of work.

series8217 wrote: Consider selling your WRX to someone who wants to build an 818, and then buy a Forester XT -- they have a turbocharged 2.5L and shorter gearing than the WRX.

This sounds like a much better option.

+many for just lifting the WRX or finding a FozXT. Personally, I like the '98-02 Foresters best for size, looks, and driving experience(drives like a GC 2.5RS with tall tires), but the swap just isn't worth it when the later XTs are getting affordable, not unless you've already got a cheap and functional rolling shell and a drivetrain that's ready to go.

Okay - it sounds like rust repair on the shell (mostly rear fenders and front edge of roof above windsheild) with a raised suspension is the way to go.

I do like like the looks and utility of the 98-08 Forester's and I certainly don't have the cash to buck up for an 04-08 XT. Just bought the SWMBO a 2012 Ford Explorer, so I got to get 5 years out of the WRX and thought gettting a cheap, rust free shell would be an option.

if you have rust in the rear wheel well area it's worth doing a couple of things. Pull the rear seats and look at the seat belt mounts. If you see rust there, then don't waste any time removing the rear trunk liner to expose the inner fenders. Subaru used this rubber insulation thing that does nothing but hold water in and promote rust. Pull it out and let the metal breath.

sachilles wrote: if you have rust in the rear wheel well area it's worth doing a couple of things. Pull the rear seats and look at the seat belt mounts. If you see rust there, then don't waste any time removing the rear trunk liner to expose the inner fenders. Subaru used this rubber insulation thing that does nothing but hold water in and promote rust. Pull it out and let the metal breath.

Just rust on the rear outer fenders from those damn rubber moldings that Subaru put on the WRX.

The FXT's aren't that much. Just come to Texas where they are cheap. 6-10K for them. Do a fly and drive and go. You get a clean car and they are not in demand here and are about the cheapest prices in the US for them.

The other option is some spacers. Primitive makes some pre-made ones but they are not hard to cut if you have the tools