Shop air problem 90% solved.

I picked up this gem today.

It's a Quincy 325-13 air compressor with a 80 gallon tank. As near as I can tell it's from the 1970s. 18.6 CFM at 175psi should be a nice change for the little 2hp compressor I've been using.

It's got to be the only air compressor I've seen that has a pressure oil system on it complete with gauge. It's needs a motor to replace the 3 phase one that is on it and a pressure switch. I also might have to expand my compressor shed to make it fit. It's going to be a close fit. I'll start a build thread when I go into it.

Sweet! a big compressor will make life really nice.

I've got the twin cyl versoin of the same unit. Works great. Look at the tag over the outlet pipe it will have month and year the tank was certified this will get you close year wise.
Funny everyone loves cheap non cert tank you get now but in 5 years when they leak with pin holes they feel riped off.... Nice score! Do you have plans for other big equipment? why not make a rotory phase converter?

In reply to 44Dwarf:

This is a 2 cylinder 2 stage. The tank says 1971.

As far as all my other equipment, my 13" lathe is getting converted to variable speed DC and my mill is single phase. I can pick up a Baldor 5hp motor for about $350. I'm not sure I could come up with a phase converter for much less. I'm going to stop by the local motor rewind shop Monday and see if we can work a deal swapping the 10 hp 3 phase motor for a 5 hp single phase. Quincy says the compressor only needs 3-5 hp.

Mine is on a 5hp single phase too. my mill is in a converter as is one of my 2 lathes

I got inexpensive TECO FM50's for my 2hp 3-phase mill and 1hp 3-phase lathe at http://www.dealerselectric.com/ I love running 3-phase machines - the power is SO smooth and torquey.

I'm running my 5hp 3 phase lathe and mill on a Phase-a-Matic rotary phase converter, and it's pretty great.

I've priced the phase converters and the VFDs. I wouldn't mind using a setup like that, but the pricing just doesn't work. A 5hp single phase motor is $350. A 10hp rotary phase converter is $700-$1000 and a 10hp VFD would be in the $650 range. Having to supply a 10hp motor drives the prices way up.

Holy crap. That thing is definitely taller than the outhouse. Good thing I wired the shop with a 225 amp panel when I built it.

Is it going to be necessary to change the pulley ratio when using the 5hp motor with that compressor?

http://www.americanrotary.com/products/phase-converters

But yes in your case its easyer to change out the motor, My converter is pure home made. 40HP motor from a scrap dealer, and an old snigle phase 1/2 motor from god only knows mounted on a hindge spin the 40hp with the 110 motor then jam the single pase plug wired to the 3 phase motor in to the outlet and let go of the hindge and pull the plug on the 1/2hp motor. Tons of online plans etc. One even uses a chevy flywheel and a starter to spin the motor and adds mass but i didn't have the parts laying around...

In reply to Curmudgeon:

It's going to be a real tight squeeze to get in the outhouse. By the tape measure, the only thing that won't clear in the height, is the copper tube coming off the hydraulic unloaders on the top of the head. I can reroute it for clearance. The biggest problem will be getting the 4 strong backs in there at the same time as the compressor. I damn sure can't move it by myself. At a guess it's 500-600 pounds. It might be the case of pulling down half the outhouse, setting the compressor and rebuilding the outhouse around it. We'll see.

take the motor and pump off the tank... install tank in shed.. put the motor and pump back on...

In reply to novaderrik:

I thought of that, but I'm not sure there is enough room to work and I'm not sure I can lift the pump. The compressor shed is only 3' x 4' and the tank is almost that big.

I've still got to get it off the trailer. My engine hoist won't go high enough. It's probably going to be a case of several strong backs and rolling it down my car ramps on a hand truck.

very nice... BTW, why does the compressor and motor have to be mounted on top of the tank? Maybe you could build a frame to set the motor/compressor next to the tank...

Toyman01 wrote: In reply to novaderrik: I thought of that, but I'm not sure there is enough room to work and I'm not sure I can lift the pump. The compressor shed is only 3' x 4' and the tank is almost that big. I've still got to get it off the trailer. My engine hoist won't go high enough. It's probably going to be a case of several strong backs and rolling it down my car ramps on a hand truck.

take the stuff off the tank... lay tank down, roll off trailer..

as far as final installation- there is no law that says that the motor and pump need to be mounted to the top of the tank... build a little table to mount them to, with a big hose and/or hardline connected to the tank..

novaderrik wrote: take the stuff off the tank... lay tank down, roll off trailer..

Perfect!

I have to think about remote mounting the motor and pump too. I could actually put them in the shed and the tank outside. A good coat of paint would keep it from rusting.

Good ideas.

Thanks.

novaderrik wrote: take the stuff off the tank... lay tank down, roll off trailer..

That's more or less exactly how I plan to get a new compressor into my basement when the time comes (planning to use an appliance hand truck to get it down the stairs). They are usually delivered assembled, but there's nothing that says the have to stay that way.

My tank is between the garage doors. the motor and compressor are upstairs bolted to two "I" beams from a guard rail / road paving.....there was a pile just lying there for a month...two went missing... The I beams float on worn out BB valve springs

44Dwarf wrote: The I beams float on worn out BB valve springs

Brilliant.

Used to have boxes of spring when I drag raced I swaped them out after 25 runs.

Update time.

I started a build thread for this over here.