In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I didn't say it was feasible. I just said it'd be better! You and your so-called "facts" just showing up to ruin the party!
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I didn't say it was feasible. I just said it'd be better! You and your so-called "facts" just showing up to ruin the party!
2017+ 991.2 (maybe 991.1 as well) Era Porsche 911. To replace the engine air filter, you have to remove the bumper cover. There is no other way to access the air boxes.
Human beings.
We're not designed to walk upright, yet, here we are. This is why everyone has back problems.
Also, the playground is right next to the waste treatment area.
Angled control arms describe their own roll center height. The described height is wildly different from the roll center height defined by the Watts link. The suspension thus binds in articulation, leading to snap oversteer when the roll stiffness develops a hockey stick like increase.
Mazda bandaged over this for the first two years by running an extremely large rear bar to minimize articulation. Then they softened the cars, and they would snap oversteer instead of controllably slide. And then the bodies started to fail from the stresses on the links...
Universally, anything under the hood of a VW or Audi, because most all of it requires you to do this:
But if you want specific parts, that oil filter housing in the foreground with rubber O-ring style gaskets that shrink with age is probably a good example.
ddavidv said:Universally, anything under the hood of a VW or Audi, because most all of it requires you to do this:
But if you want specific parts, that oil filter housing in the foreground with rubber O-ring style gaskets that shrink with age is probably a good example.
Isn't that a picture of a BMW/mini that's getting a headlight bulb replaced?
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:ddavidv said:Universally, anything under the hood of a VW or Audi, because most all of it requires you to do this:
But if you want specific parts, that oil filter housing in the foreground with rubber O-ring style gaskets that shrink with age is probably a good example.
Isn't that a picture of a BMW/mini that's getting a headlight bulb replaced?
The same person who would remove the entire nose of a VWAG product when it was designed with leeway in the hoses so you can just unbolt the "lock carrier", insert 8" long bolts, and slide it forward, is also probably the same person who would remove the nose of a Mini to replace the headlight bulb that is part of the hood 
My wife had a 2008 Hyundai Elantra for a while. Man, that thing was a rolling design flaw. But the worst was the rear brakes. To remove the rear caliper, you had to remove one of the rear trailing/control arms or else you couldn't get the bolt all the way out. Simple stuff like doing a brake job on an econobox should not require you to disassemble the rear suspension.
My Acura has power seats that slide all the way back when you turn off the car. They return to your preferred seating position as soon as you start the car.
But the clutch needs to be all they way to the floor for the car to start. And I can't push the pedal to the floor with the seat all the way back.
I am 6'1".
R1100S. A beautiful bike. But they quite literally took a battery and built a motorcycle around it. I'm pretty sure you could swap the engine about as easily.
Jeep JK let's you easily switch off the stability control when fumbling for the driver's heated seat control. Not like you'd need stability control in a Jeep. 
I hope they fixed it in the JL
In reply to A 401 CJ :
Jeep MJ etc unibody suvs with a manual transmission.
The fuse panel is directly below the clutch master cylinder.
MC stars heaving brake fluid and it all ends up in the fuse panel.
I cleaned mine out many times and still had electrical gremlins from it. I'd be driving along and the dash lights would go out. Get my foot up on the panel, push and wiggle, lights came back on.
Bloody stupid.
Oh, and lets not forget Renix French fuel injection. Have to have a Renix test unit to figure out problems. Crank sensor controls fuel AND spark so you have to figure out why you've lost both. Then they put the crank sensor on the top of the bellhousing, below the cylinder head so you need 3' of extensions to get to the two tiny bolts that hold it on. You can barely get your fingers in there to start the bolts for the new one. Literally anywhere else on the crank pulley or flywheel would have been better.
In reply to ShawnG :
When I travel in my XJ I keep a spare tested CPS and 2 long extensions with a wobble socket. Been there, done that in an O'Reiley's parking lot.
DW's 2017 S60 has an automatic headlight position on the switch, but no actual indication whether the headlights themselves are on or off. No binnacle indicator at all. There is a green pilot LED above the physical rotary switch, but that comes on as soon as you rotate the switch to anything other than the OFF position. Even if it functioned to indicate only when the actual headlights were on (instead of just ready), it's behind the steering wheel and you have to cock your head to see it. But it doesn't even do that.
They made that chassis forever. Seems like something that could have been easily corrected with a tiny bit of programming.
My 2019 V60 has an all-TFT binnacle. There is a little space between the tach and speedo. I have this set to be always blank except when using nav... but somehow the radio gets to ignore this setting when it sees fit to. And it sees fit to whenever the radio receives an update in the program information, which happens randomly, such as when the FM signal pops in/out of HD.
About 80% of the time, it's blank, and the other 20% of the time, program info pops in for a second before the dash says to itself "Oh, berk, I'm not supposed to show anything there!" and turns it off again. So instead of visual cleanliness, I have my choice of constant irrelevant information on the dash (distracting), or random blipverts (even more distracting).
Hey, Volvo: That little slider that says "Never"? It should berking mean NEVER. Again, this should be a simple software update to fix, but none is available.
If you want to hear a grouchy old man rant about the evils of MFC's "Multi Function Controls" read this...
Came here to recommend Norman's book.
The application of user-centered design principles oughta be a law, IMHO...
LT1 ignition placement directly below a water pump, both with shaft seals...
In addition to my VW picture above, I'll add the 'vacuum pump', a little device on the driver's end of the engine that eventually leaks from yet another rubber gasket that is not made of lifetime material. On an automatic, VW says you have to remove the transmission to replace it.
One does not, if one can disassemble the pump in situ and then remove it with careful finagling. VAG will, of course, only sell the complete pump for over a hundred bucks when all you need is a gasket and o-ring. Which can be found on Amazon, BTW.
Jim Pettengill said:Maybe I missed it, but has no one mentioned changing spark plugs on a V8 Chevy Monza?
Just no one left that has tried to do this. Lol
In reply to Tyler H :
can you guys expand on why that suspension design is bad, looks similar to anAudi A4-A8
LEFT HAND LUG STUDS ON MOPARS !!!
You know that "L" on the tip disappears in 18 months, in the rain or when you're in a hurry. right?
ShawnG said:Human beings.
We're not designed to walk upright, yet, here we are. This is why everyone has back problems.
Also, the playground is right next to the waste treatment area.
A big part of the problem with humans are bad and conflicting operator manuals. Imagine those same Audis posted above. Now imagine that you're trying to fix them while getting your instructions from Twitter feeds and Youtube comments.
maschinenbau said:LT1 ignition placement directly below a water pump, both with shaft seals...
I actually had that little stub shaft strip its teeth. Took me awhile to figure out. Pump was newish and wasn't leaking, it had a full radiator, yet it would peg the gauge in just a few miles. It was either that or the female part on the pump - it's been 20 years.
Hypermotard 821 air filter change.
It's hidden under the fuel tank. In order to get the tank off, you have to remove all of the plastics, the battery, the ECU, and you're still not quite done. Just for an air filter on a bike.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=xNlltOk4ngQ
Also, E30 Bitch Clip. It's earned the name.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORzNZUeUHAM&pp=ygUHc3Ryb2Fkcw%3D%3D
And I think with the M96, designing the oiling system to cope with a measly .8g is probably more egregious than the IMS system. Like a new GR86, you can presumably blow up one of these (very expensive) motors right quick without much effort.
The ND transmission comes to mind as well- IIRC there are at least 7 revisions to try to make it strong enough to take all of the whopping 150 lb.ft. the 2.0 produces. But to be fair.... the trans was designed for a 1.5l engine, and they did do something kind of cool. The final drive is 2.87, meaning the transmission needs to take more of the tq. multiplication duty on, and they did simultaneously reduce the trans weight by 15lb over the version in the last Miata... Seems to me they went a bit too far with the lightweighting.
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