glueguy (Forum Supporter)
glueguy (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/4/20 8:50 a.m.

Based on time in the house, this smoke detector is at least 10 years old so I plan to replace it.  It's at the top of the cathedral ceiling.  There is a much more convenient low ceiling at the entrance to the bedroom.  I know smoke rises, which is probably why that one was installed up there (it's battery, not hard wired).  Should I put a new one up there or is the entry "hall" to the bedroom going to be effective?

 

914Driver
914Driver MegaDork
11/4/20 9:31 a.m.
noddaz
noddaz GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
11/4/20 11:04 a.m.

If you put it in the lower hallway there is going to be an awful lot of smoke in the house before it goes off.

Which is ok if you cook like I do.

Woody (Forum Supportum)
Woody (Forum Supportum) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/4/20 11:42 a.m.

Do both.

This is not where you want to try and save money.

Use one with a 10 year battery up on the cathedral ceiling.

Woody (Forum Supportum)
Woody (Forum Supportum) GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/4/20 11:45 a.m.

Also... Close your bedroom door before you fall asleep.

SVreX (Forum Supporter)
SVreX (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/4/20 12:22 p.m.

1 smoke detector is completely inadequate no matter how small your house is.

It needs to be within 12" of your high ceiling.  The low ceiling is definitely NOT a substitute.  However, an additional one located outside the bedrooms is also a good idea.

You should have one on each level of the house, near potential fire sources, inside each bedroom, AND outside each bedroom.  Avoid areas of potential smoke from normal activities (like the kitchen or the garage).  Those areas are better served with heat detectors.

Interconnected is really important.  This doesn't mean they have to be hard wired.  I have a wireless system that has all 9 units interconnected.  If a fire starts in the garage, the alarms will sound in the bedroom.  I made sure to install it immediately when we moved in.  My kids are worth more than a couple hundred bucks.

It's a life saving device.  Don't be cheap.

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
11/4/20 8:00 p.m.

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

Never heard of inter-connected but not hard wired devices. What's the product called?

SVreX (Forum Supporter)
SVreX (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/4/20 8:59 p.m.

In reply to OHSCrifle :

It's a First Alert wireless system. 
 


 

They create their own network, and are battery only powered. I prefer hard wired, but it would have taken a lot of time and money to wire- my house is complicated. 
 

It has a voice system- the units announce verbally which unit has tripped.

I installed the entire system throughout the house in about 30 minutes. 

OHSCrifle
OHSCrifle GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
11/5/20 5:14 a.m.

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

That's fantastic. Thank you. 

SVreX (Forum Supporter)
SVreX (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/5/20 5:03 p.m.

In reply to OHSCrifle :

No problem. 
 

I should add... they are loud, and annoying as crap. My daughter hates them.  I count that as a good thing!

If they can wake a teenager from a sound sleep, they are doing their job well!!

No Time
No Time Dork
11/5/20 5:16 p.m.

I have a similar set of wireless interconnected alarms. They are Kidde combo smoke and CO with 10 year batteries and available at HD.

Not to hijack, but this seems like a good place for asking. I know I should have both, are there recommended locations selecting  Ionizing or photo sensors?

I have photo sensing upstairs in bedrooms and need to replace the standalone units with a few more interconnected on the first floor. Since the first floor is has the boiler and kitchen I was thinking these should be ionizing, but not sure. 
 

Any internet expert opinions?

SVreX (Forum Supporter)
SVreX (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/5/20 5:55 p.m.

In reply to No Time :

Yes, you're right. You should have both. 
 

Photoelectric units work better with smoke generated from smoldering sources. Ionization units work better with smoke generated by open flames. 

You can't predict what kind of fire you will have. 
 

Since you are replacing, why not use dual type (single units which use both technologies)

No Time
No Time Dork
11/5/20 8:45 p.m.

In reply to SVreX (Forum Supporter) :

I installed these in each bedroom a couple months ago: Current alarms

I'm looking to replace the non-interconnect alarm in the downstairs (in the living room at the bottom of the stairs, add one in the kitchen, and add another alarm in the garage. 

I haven't been able to find dual type from kidde to network with the ones in the upstairs bedrooms and hall.

The best I can find is a battery powered ionization sensor smoke alarm:

This one

So it looks like I will need to do some more research on how to best locate the different types to provide the best protection. 

SVreX (Forum Supporter)
SVreX (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
11/5/20 9:52 p.m.

In reply to No Time :

If it's helpful, I'd say that mattresses would tend to smolder, and grease fires tend to flame.  Yeah... that's not helpful.  I'm sure Woody would say that's a terrible way to measure!

You could also consider 2 different units in some locations.

1988RedT2
1988RedT2 MegaDork
11/6/20 6:37 a.m.

Good info here.  I recently replaced all of my hardwired interconnected units, as they were nearly 20 years old.  I am thankful that the builder went with the hardwired setup. 

Be safe!  And don't smoke in bed.

glueguy (Forum Supporter)
glueguy (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand Dork
11/6/20 7:14 a.m.

Glad I started this, thanks to all the smart folks out there. 

The house has good coverage.  Some are hardwired, late 90's style.  Someone added some extra ones along the way.  This is the one that made me think about location, and I appreciate the input.

It's also neat learning about new technology like the wireless detectors.  To sidetrack a little, I recently discovered LED bulbs that replace the need for a fluorescent ballast.  Remove the bulbs, remove the ballast, connect these in, boom, done.

 

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