So a Bought a new engine today...

I wonder what kind of scratch a fella could pull down if he were to start cutting counterbores in Rover blocks specifically for the top hat liners?...

What's the deck height on those? I know an 8.2" deck sbf block would fit on a bridgeport...

novaderrik wrote:

tr8todd wrote: Thats steep. I've built a couple dozen Rover V8s over the years. Basic rebuild on a 4.6 should be around $2-3K. That is if you take it out and drop it off at the machine shop yourself. Obviously if you pay someone else, or you actually broke something in there, the price goes up fast. 8K will get you a 300HP plus stroker with forged internals, big valve heads, and a roller lifters. The last basic rebuild I did was on a 4.0. Short block was $1200 plus gaskets and new rod bolts. Heads were another $450. Machinist provided new rings, rod bearings, main bearings, and cam bearings. With cam and cometic head gaskets, I was into the complete engine for around $2200. You can pick up junkyard 4.0s for around $500 and 4.6s for around $1500. Here is a link to the shop that did the work. He's done at least 100 Rover V8s. http://precisionengine.net/

$8k for a stroker with forged parts that only makes 300hp? yeah, i think i'll keep playing with American V8 powered cars and trucks..

Don't go to the Mini Mania website to price out A-series engines, you'll have some sort of aneurysm. Like I said, there's a minimum cost to build an engine, and some just start off with more power than others...

In reply to mad_machine:Good Job!! If you like what you have, repair it and enjoy it!

Keith Tanner wrote: Don't go to the Mini Mania website to price out A-series engines, you'll have some sort of aneurysm. Like I said, there's a minimum cost to build an engine, and some just start off with more power than others...

Well, at least most of those include the transmission.

I have to admit... the 1275/3.44 version for $7395 is tempting...

Imma just gonna leave this right here:

NMNA 2000 Range Rover in MD overheats

"I am selling a 2000 range rover has a clean title as I am the 3rd owner. car fax on hand. it starts and runs but overheats. I got the head gasket replaced about a yr and a half ago and I pretty sure it went again. I have all mantiance records. it was well mantained as she was my pride and joy but dont have the money or time for her. sold as is"

Besides being small displacement isn't the Rover V8 silly light as well?

the rest of my Disco is in prime shape aside from the paint on the hood being weird (it looks lightly sanded no matter how much UI polish it) and a headliner with a few corners starting to droop. Other than those two things, everything works properly, it is rust free, and still looks almost new.

The River v8 is all aluminum, so it is lighter than the equivalent SBC.

For the money I am spending I am getting:

This Land Rover long block 4.6 engine includes the following components:
•New, Specially-designed Cam Bearings
•New Camshaft
•New Timing Chain
•New Timing Gears
•New Rod Bolts
•New Single-Use Head Bolts
•New Piston Rings
•New Flanged Sleeves
•New Crossbolt Seals
•New Main Seals
•New Main Bearings
•New Rod Bearings
•New Freeze Plugs
•New Rockershaft Assemblies
•New Tappet Assemblies
•New Push Rods
•Engine Heads (2) - Remanufactured & Installed - Includes New Exhaust and Intake Valves and New Valve Springs
•New Timing Front Cover with Oil Pump
•New Water Pump
•Refurbished Oil Pan

Plus a 12 month unlimited mile warrenty

you have PM

that I have no idea how to get to

Should go to whatever email address is associated with your account (or maybe spam folder of said email address).

yeah, the message bounced back at me.

Read the paperwork carefully on the new motor. I think they (Atlantic British) require 10w40 oil. Maybe some zinc break-in additive?

I found out that the website still had my old now defunct earthlink email address. It is fixed now.

I went through hell ordering that engine too. I am having it drop shipped to the place doing the work.. but I had to do a conference call with the bank that issued the card to allow it. As the card is actually my debit card, They then had to call me back to let me know it had been declined.. nobody knew it was only authorized for $5000 daily.. so they had to break the payments up

Keith Tanner wrote:

novaderrik wrote:

tr8todd wrote: Thats steep. I've built a couple dozen Rover V8s over the years. Basic rebuild on a 4.6 should be around $2-3K. That is if you take it out and drop it off at the machine shop yourself. Obviously if you pay someone else, or you actually broke something in there, the price goes up fast. 8K will get you a 300HP plus stroker with forged internals, big valve heads, and a roller lifters. The last basic rebuild I did was on a 4.0. Short block was $1200 plus gaskets and new rod bolts. Heads were another $450. Machinist provided new rings, rod bearings, main bearings, and cam bearings. With cam and cometic head gaskets, I was into the complete engine for around $2200. You can pick up junkyard 4.0s for around $500 and 4.6s for around $1500. Here is a link to the shop that did the work. He's done at least 100 Rover V8s. http://precisionengine.net/

$8k for a stroker with forged parts that only makes 300hp? yeah, i think i'll keep playing with American V8 powered cars and trucks..

Don't go to the Mini Mania website to price out A-series engines, you'll have some sort of aneurysm. Like I said, there's a minimum cost to build an engine, and some just start off with more power than others...

Its amazing what people expect sometimes.... A properly rebuilt (no performance modifications) 4AGE using only OEM gaskets and seals (cause all the others fail) will easily set you back $2000-$2500, or more. Add in a pair of cams, adjustability on the cams, a bit of extra machining, a bit of port work and you have easily blown past $4000...

$7k for the proper engine, overcoming original flaws, with a warranty... be happy

I try to tell myself that's superfluous, but if my 4Runner E36 M3 the bed... I'd probably replace the motor too.

We're talking keeping it real here. Early 1980s I paid around $5,000, including shipping for a twin cam 4.2 litre motor for my Mk X that was a true Jaguar crate motor. Although I'm not sure the term was even used back then. I could have gone to John's Jags and bought a kit to put a sbc in for about $2,500 or maybe even a little less. It even would have bolted up to the transmission. But then I'd just have another Chevrolet, but with a different body.

Even with all the hassle of getting my new motor through customs, I still believe I did the right thing! And I think you did the right thing as well. Enjoy!!

thanks.. that is it.. except for the Disco's extreme thirst (I generally get about 16mpg) it is a fairly decent truck. It handles better than most of the SUVs I looked at (and better than all the pickups), looks great still, and offers me both utility to haul my boat and anything else I want, and still gives enough luxury to coddle me the whole way.

Once I get a new engine in her.. I am hoping for 200,000 miles

I don't know why people are so shocked at the price. Go and check Porsche crate engines. Forgetting the oil cooled cars, even a basic M96 water cooled crate engine can cost upards of $15K. Even the parts for a basic oil cooled DIY rebuild can cost more than this rover V8 with a lots of upgrades.

Adrian_Thompson wrote: I don't know why people are so shocked at the price. Go and check Porsche crate engines. Forgetting the oil cooled cars, even a basic M96 water cooled crate engine can cost upards of $15K. Even the parts for a basic oil cooled DIY rebuild can cost more than this rover V8 with a lots of upgrades.

I would say, IMO, because it isn't a Porsche, it doesn't have Porsche performance, and everything else wrapped around the LR engine has a tendency to E36 M3 the bed. Also, air-cooled Porsches have skyrocketed in value recently, so rebuilding the engine in one is more of an investment in a car that is appreciating as opposed to one that has rapidly depreciated. That being said I wouldn't hesitate to invest in a vehicle I liked regardless of value, but I hardly ever make vehicle related decisions on logic and reason, so there's that.

In reply to Cotton:

I don't get my panties in a wad over pushrod Vs DOHC Vs Side vlave Vs crossflow Vs whatever someone things is the greatest thing since sliced mammoth meant. To me, outside of displacement limited racing, there are 4 things that count in an engine:
1. Weight of engine
2. Size of engine package
3. Torque it makes and by deivative RPM and hence power it makes
4. Fuel used

That a great way to compare an LSx to a Porsche Turbo to a Ferrari to a GTR engine etc.

Based on that a Rover V8 stacks up very well to an oil cooled Porsche, but non of them stack up well to an LSx. So, to my twisted view a Rover V8 is easily comparable to an oil cooled Porker.

Please note I am a massive P car fan and will own one, correction will own several some day.

Yeah, but even if the whole car E36 M3 the bed, he'd still have a good engine he could pull out and sell for a couple grand to someone equally besotted by Land Rovers.

or I could stick it in another disco

I got word from the shipping company today.. it arrives at the shop tomorrow. Now I just need to wait till he is ready to get my truck in there for the work

So what was the outcome of this? Up and running fine and dandy i hope?

In reply to Adrian_Thompson:

IIRC, there was a follow up thread. New engine had, um, issues.

neon4891 wrote: In reply to Adrian_Thompson: IIRC, there was a follow up thread. New engine had, um, issues.

And most recently there was a thread about the cooling system. It looked like a robot had taken a dump in it.

EDIT: Here. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/does-this-sound-like-a-dying-thermostat/103278/page1/

neon4891 wrote: In reply to Adrian_Thompson: IIRC, there was a follow up thread. New engine had, um, issues.

Can you point me to said thread please?