You'll be able to add an easy 50rwhp with just a cam swap. After that things will get more expensive, like a set of as cast Trick Flow heads, FAST102/102 etc.
You'll be able to add an easy 50rwhp with just a cam swap. After that things will get more expensive, like a set of as cast Trick Flow heads, FAST102/102 etc.
In reply to docwyte:
There is power to be had here which should be add 100+ to her
-Injectors ~150 used for 36-38lb
-Headers ~500 new
-Intake & throttle body used options in the 250-500 range
Started trolling the LS forums for these goodies already but need to let my bank account recover first.
It doesn't have a set of long tube headers on it now?
really your biggest bang for your buck will be the cam, then the headers, then everything else...
84FSP wrote: In reply to Strike_Zero: Agreed! There are a couple different generations of the factory diff as GM warrantied a bunch of them and had to make improvements. I have the latest iteration which had the fewest issues (still not impervious). I also applied a two pronged approach to diff protection while it was apart. -Fresh rear cradle bushings along with additional Poly bushings/spacers that significantly limit movement -Fresh OE diff/pinion bushing combined with a Poly bushing and c shaped diff brace that surrounds the diff housing This won't be fool proof and is a known weak link. I'm less worried about smoky burnout track launches as this is a daily that will see more high speed commute than stoplight action.
Sweet!! If you get anymore hop or clunking, I would recommend getting the Creative Steel Diff Bushing. That eliminated nearly all the "parade" clunking and hopping issues.
The only other step after that is 8.8 . . . $$$$$$
Strike_Zero wrote:84FSP wrote: In reply to Strike_Zero: Agreed! There are a couple different generations of the factory diff as GM warrantied a bunch of them and had to make improvements. I have the latest iteration which had the fewest issues (still not impervious). I also applied a two pronged approach to diff protection while it was apart. -Fresh rear cradle bushings along with additional Poly bushings/spacers that significantly limit movement -Fresh OE diff/pinion bushing combined with a Poly bushing and c shaped diff brace that surrounds the diff housing This won't be fool proof and is a known weak link. I'm less worried about smoky burnout track launches as this is a daily that will see more high speed commute than stoplight action.Sweet!! If you get anymore hop or clunking, I would recommend getting the Creative Steel Diff Bushing. That eliminated nearly all the "parade" clunking and hopping issues. The only other step after that is 8.8 . . . $$$$$$
That's good to know. I really like these cars but have been a little leary of them after hearing all the exploding diff stories online.
In reply to docwyte:
Longtubes dissapeared before making it to my house, sadly.
Another day of good news bad news.
V was dropped off for paint yesterday and should emerge with a freshly painted/repaired bumper cover next week. Andy was able to save the drivers door with creative wet-sanding and buffing.
The ACT "upgraded" clutch is now failing. Clutch feel changed drastically and now is slipping. Could be a number of things but I'll likely end up doing all of it so I don't have to see it anytime soon.
After some home work it seems the budget friendly OEM+ upgrade is go to the LS7 Vette clutch.plate/flywheel/slave cylinder. Will be doing fresh hardware and and the pilot bearing at the same time.
Ironically the upgrade ends up @ ~$500 which is a bit cheaper than the OEM CTS V dual mass setup.
At least things will be fresh and ready to go another 100k though.
Well damn . . .
If you use the LS7 HTOB, measure to see if need shims to space it out so it won't drag. Also think about doing the master cylinder as well. I did neither of those and it is bitting me in the butt.
Not sure I would recommend the LS7 setup. Same (or worse) high-RPM shifting issues than the stock LS6 unit. Not to mention, it's a bit heavier.
I'd also spring for the Tick clutch master cylinder, it's a modified Tilton unit that's adjustable. Also would be a good time to throw on a remote bleeder.
Tick has a master for CTS-Vs? The only drop-in aftermarket one a few years ago was Philistine master cylinder and it was pricey.
I have no problem ripping off 6600rpm shifts in mine with Luk LS7 clutch kit and F1 (ebay) ~25lb single mass flywheel.
Drunkonunleaded wrote: Not sure I would recommend the LS7 setup. Same (or worse) high-RPM shifting issues than the stock LS6 unit. Not to mention, it's a bit heavier. I'd also spring for the Tick clutch master cylinder, it's a modified Tilton unit that's adjustable. Also would be a good time to throw on a remote bleeder.
I'm a noob to the LS world but did some research on the topic. The LS7 was supposed to be a lighter weight setup than the dual mass CTS V oem stuff. I was more swayed by good experiences from folks running it than other issues but did like the sub ~20lb reduction it is supposed to offer.
Time will tell as it is on order at this point.
84FSP wrote: After some home work it seems the budget friendly OEM+ upgrade is go to the LS7 Vette clutch.plate/flywheel/slave cylinder. Will be doing fresh hardware and and the pilot bearing at the same time. Ironically the upgrade ends up @ ~$500 which is a bit cheaper than the OEM CTS V dual mass setup.
I was able to do the swap without the LS7 slave cylinder but it involved getting fabby with the hardline. I forgot which slave I used.
Normally I am all in favor of keeping dual mass flywheels, but WOW. If your car already has it removed, you won't be able to truly appreciate how much of a pain in the tail it is to get the bellhousing out of the car with a DMF. There's not enough room between the flywheel and the floor tunnel.
In reply to Knurled:
Yeah - can only imagine the fun of the dual mass. I would normally be fine with keeping it OE (CTS V Dual mass) but that setup and flywheel is long gone at this point. All we can see till we get it apart is yellow which I think is Exedy? Not that it matters.
In theory it feels like the slave cylinder is the only component failing. Having no interest in ever touching these parts again it's all getting redone with OEM LS7 goodies.
84FSP wrote: In reply to Knurled: Yeah - can only imagine the fun of the dual mass. I would normally be find with keeping it OE (CTS V Dual mass) but that setup and flywheel is long gone at this point. All we can see till we get it apart is yellow which I think is Exedy? Not that it matters. In theory it feels like the slave cylinder is the only component failing. Having no interest in ever touching these parts again it's all getting redone with OEM LS7 goodies.
Yellow is usually ACT. Exedy clutches tend to be purple.
In reply to NickD:
Appreciate it - CooperTired said something similar. This car has been a fun little black box of surprises trying to figure out what the heck a prior parade geniuses did to it.
On the brightside it will be pretty tight from top to bottom by the time I'm done.
Quite a saga. Too bad it wasn't the hot motor, but still not bad.
Agreed but still happy rocking it as an affordable daily. Admittedly placing bets that these are at the bottom of their depreciation curve but only time will tell. I really dig that they are a low production animal that only car people recognize.
So bittersweet moment for V and I. She went to the good new home of a buddy yesterday and saw her at Cars and Coffee this am.
7yrs, 60k miles driven, and hundreds of hours of time into her.
Amazingly figured out I broke even financially on the car. I did a receipt check as I was pulling all her docs together for the new owner.
Need to highlight this wondrous event to Mrs84FSP.
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