Insane? Welcome to the club. Pass go and increase your dork status.
LainfordExpress wrote: Speaking of stuff to take... what should I take? Keep in mind, air travel. Would rather not have to check a bag. I think that is going to limit me pretty severely.
Like others have said, pack light. You will be driving back in a Miata... You won't have a choice but to pack light...
If it eases your mind any, maybe you can find a local shop near the car that can check all the fluids and look for leaks after you pick it up...
The only tool I'd bother bringing is something to scan the cars brain with. If you need anything else, you'll be buying parts from a parts store and they have tools.
I flew to Pennsylvania from Texas this spring to pick up a 911 with my 10 year old son. It was spectacular. Have a great time.
There's enough people on this website, if you were to have trouble I'm sure you'd be close enough to someone to find help!
I've done it twice. One Banzai run from Dallas to Atlanta (total trip time 15.75 hrs door to door) and once from Kansas back to Atlanta.
If you're that worried about the car breaking down, have the car inspected by a local mechanic before you fly in. No guarantees but it would at least make sure the basics are good.
shadetree30 wrote:
Somehow I remember that, also... Obviously wasn't Italian, but didn't Tim go out to CA and drive an old Falcon wagon home or something?
Tim drove an Edsel back from CA a few years ago.
To the OP:
Any chance you can see Speed Week as well, since you're out three anyway?
http://www.scta-bni.org/events.html
Fletch1 wrote: Don't wait to buy a car here in Ohio, unless it's newer or....unless you like rust. I just bought a truck from a couple that just moved here from Texas. Thank you Texas!
About 12 years ago, I was working in a 'burb that had a sudden and sizable influx of Texas plates. I'm assuming that one of the local tech/medical companies relocated a bunch of people. Anyway, lots of rust-free tin.
6 months later, they were rusted worse than "native" cars were. The heartbreaker was an '89 T-bird that started out pristine but had the rockers opened up, doors sagging, can't even lift by the U-channels because they were collapsing, general RUST that plagued that chassis.
Near as I can figure, dust and rocks down there chip the paint out and it's not a problem. Then one N.E. Ohio winter and the salt attacks all of that nice bare metal like it's a ferrous buffet.
Gearheadotaku wrote: You'll be fine. Has the timing belt been serviced lately?
Who cares? Non interference motors are AWESOME.
Change it when it breaks!
Lesley wrote: If you really wanted the sane and rational to talk you down, you wouldn't have posted it here. We all hate you now, because we're jealous. Do eeeeeet!
yeah, what Lesley said ... you don't come on here and expect to EVER be talked out of doing ANYTHING car related
Not insane, just lucky and smart enough to buy a car out of the rust belt.
I have done roughly the same drive in a 1990 Miata. The scenery is great in some places and the drive was quite memorable.
Two day drive is you are pushing it, easy three day or even more if you plan to qawk at the scenery.
Miata seats are the benchmark of comfort in my books and the car has no issues keeping up with traffic. Expect the car to be about as reliable as an anvil that is being asked to crack eggs.
You could have the present owner have the car checked out or at least do an oil change/ fluid check. That should save you some time and worries.
What should you take? 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets and wrenches. #2 Phillips. Maybe a set of metric allen wrenches. Duct tape. Pliers. Flathead screwdriver. Pretty sure you can fix/remove anything that might go wrong that you could possibly hope to fix on the side of the road with that stuff.
Jumper cables. Nice to have if you're not sure about the battery. Alternatively, just make sure you're always parked facing downhill with clear space in front of you.
Cell phone charger. Some form of music/news on the trip. If it has a stock radio and speakers, you probably won't be able to hear it well with the top down. You ARE making this trip with the top down, right?
BTW, I'm on I-70 in the middle of Missouri if you do need help on the trip back.
wbjones wrote:Lesley wrote: If you really wanted the sane and rational to talk you down, you wouldn't have posted it here. We all hate you now, because we're jealous. Do eeeeeet!yeah, what Lesley said ... you don't come on here and expect to EVER be talked out of doing ANYTHING car related
I can remember a couple threads where people were talked out of things. I believe an Audi TT was one thing.
The only insane thing I see here is no mandatory stop at In-N-Out burger in SLC.
I almost bought a turbo'd, MS'd '91 in Jersey a couple months back and would have no problem driving it back to Ohio with a couple of wrenches. Decided it wouldn't have been the ideal DD and passed on it.
When you're officially insane, do you get a certificate from the government or something? If so, I'd like to know where I can get my certificate and what size frame I need to put it on the wall in the shop...
Bryce
I think its totally sane, but then again, I'm considering a job that would require a 1500 mile commute every two months.
Some more information, here’s the seller’s description:
“Rare 1994 Mazda Miata R in excellent condition. (No power steering, no A/C, no nothing so it’s lightweight). Clean CARFAX, 22,700 Original miles (not a misprint), $2,700 FatCat Motorsports Double-Adjustable Shocks, new in 2011 (original OEM Bilsteins included), RacingBeat adjustable front sway-bar Braille battery, Low weight, free-flowing exhaust, with removable silencer, 4 Hoosier A6s on lightweight BBS wheels, 1 set of street wheels and tires, almost new, Black with black interior, Hidden trailer hitch. $6500 bottom line. Will not reduce price again. If no one is interested, I’ll part out the good stuff and just sell the car. I’m selling because I bought back my old CRX (Tim Herron’s old car) and don’t need this.”
I agreed to his price for a few reasons: 1) 22,700 miles (!) and general condition of the car, 2) Double-Adjustable Custom Bilsteins, 3) Already pretty maxed out for E Stock/E Street, 4) General rarity of the R-package NA, 5) Hoosiers and the slightly rare Mazda OE 14x6 BBS wheels, 6) Not red.
I did a cost comparison of this car and the 1992 A-Package Sunburst Yellow (my only requirements were, in order, NA, not rusty, not red). The difference between buying this car and improving it for STS/STR vs. buying the local car and improving it for STS was about $1200… in favor of Utah car. And this one is already maxed for E Street. If they were both local, I think it’d be a no-brainer for the car I’m buying. Here’s my “DA” (sorry for the Honda-speak):
Note that the “Totals” for some include parts from the above tables that would also be legal for that class. You should also be aware that I’m an engineer. So science and math and stuff. All over the place.
Though I initially set out looking for a car for STS, this car could reasonably compete in E Stock or RTR right away, before moving on to the new Street category analysis (some think the NA is dead, but I’m not convinced, under the new rules the NA and NB will have the same size wheels, and the NA will still have a little less power, but it also will still weigh less than the NB, and look better, for whatever that is worth). The 1.8L NAs are also eligible for STS (if I pull the Torsen) and STR (could leave the Torsen) should I prove to be incorrect on my assessment of the NA in E Street.
Also, my friend is buying a ’99 Sport this weekend (in a near mirror image of my car buying adventure, we’re driving to eastern PA to pick up the car Saturday evening, and Smokey and the Bandit style driving it back overnight to compete in the NWOR Regional #4 autocross on Sunday). Plan is to compare the two vehicles in E Street, and then prepare the other for STR. That way, we would have two cars available for any given event. No more staying home due to broken car.
I also completed a “Hollis Chart” of the Miatas that will now be in E Street. Looks like the MAZDASPEED is the one to have, but I’ve heard is sucks donkey balls. I’m not sure the “Hollis Chart” is irrefutable; I’ve found it is very dependent on treadwith, for example. I did the “Hollis Chart” for each car on the same width tires, and on what I thought would be the largest reasonable to use on the required wheel. If you’re asking yourself “What is a ‘Hollis Chart’?” go back and find the issue of GRM where Andy Hollis is comparing the STF field. I think I figured out how he was quantifying the cars and made my own spreadsheet and have applied it to other classes.
Also, I made graphs. See, some of that engineer nonsense.
Here is a more detailed timetable of The Plan:
• Sat., June 29 – Packing/Trip Last-Minute Prep
• Sun., June 30 – Fly to Salt Lake City, Utah; meet with seller, hopefully finalize sale
• Mon., July 1 – Obtain Temp Tags from Utah DMV; Depart Salt Lake City, Utah bound for Denver, Colorado (491 mi, 8:44 hr) [Purposely short day… best part of the drive, any ideas? I’m thinking US40].
• Tue., July 2 – Depart Denver, Colorado bound for Kansas City, Missouri (679 miles, 9:57 hr) [May change Kansas City for Lincoln, Nebraska, as I have an uncle there I might be able to stay with, but that roughly switches the Day 2 and Day 3 travel miles, and I’d rather get to Blytheville early. If I stay in Kansas City… what to see? Also, BBQ places].
• Wed., July 3 – Depart Kansas City, Missouri bound for Blytheville, Arkansas (450 miles, 6:42 hr); arrive at Blytheville AFB for event check in, tech inspection (hopefully meeting my race tires!), etc. Party like it’s 1999.
• Thu., July 4 – Blytheville ProSolo – Day 1; more partying
• Fri., July 5 – Blytheville ProSolo – Day 2; still more partying
• Sat., July 6 – Southern States Championships/Summer Nationals – Day 1; tired, sunburnt, party?
• Sun., July 7 – Southern States Championships/Summer Nationals – Day 2; jump start on drive home
• Mon., July 8 – Finish drive to Columbus, Ohio; Sleep lots, work in the morning.
I transferred my deposit today and should have confirmation within three business days. Then the seller will send me the Hoosiers and wheels. When I get to Salt Lake City, I’ll inspect the car, and if it is to my liking, finalize the purchase and reimburse for the Tires/Wheels shipping. Seller wants final payment in cash or money transfer. Does not want a cashier’s check due to the various scams that have been going around; understandable I guess.
I’m a little worried about travelling with $6,000 in cash, but I don’t want to sit around for 3-4 business days for the bank transfer to clear. Only other option I can think is to set up a savings account, with say, Chase Bank, and then just close the account there? Or maybe we both open savings accounts and I can transfer the funds more immediately since it’s the same bank?
30 June 2013 – 9:15AM
Well, the adventure has begun; I boarded US Airways Flight 583 from Port Columbus International bound for Phoenix Sky Harbor International, departing right on time at 7:55AM. We just landed in PHX at about 9:00AM local; by flight from PHX to Salt Lake City doesn’t depart until 10:10AM.
Already, the list of things I’ve forgotten includes two rather important items. #1 - Ohio license plate. I really hadn’t intended to use it, but wanted to bring one as insurance in case there is some kind of issue with the Utah DMV. I emailed them on Friday, and confirmed that the temporary tag is $2.50, requires me to produce a bill of sale, my state-issued ID, and proof of insurance, which brings me to #2 – Proof of insurance. I knew I was forgetting something last night when I was printing out all of my confirmations, etc., and it was the proof of insurance. Actually, I forgot to even buy said insurance. I’ll attempt to buy it online at the hotel in Salt Lake City and maybe they’ll let me use a printer there. It’s a Hyatt Place, so they effing better. All fancified and what-not.
Yesterday, because I’m stupid, I drove at the NWOR Team Challenge (local autocross event). The format is different than a typical autocross; entries are limited to 64 competitors, and you’re randomly assigned a partner at the start. Then, each competitor gets five runs on the course, and the teams are ranked by their combined PAX times and placed into a knock out bracket. Pretty cool actually.
I was partnered with Rich G., #92 STC, who’s a regular competitor in NWOR and OVR events, as well as SCCA national events, pretty fortuitous. It was actually pretty cool, because I was driving an STF Honda CR-Z and Rich was in an STC Spec-Civic Si. Kinda a Honda “then-and-now” team. We did quite well, qualified about mid-pack and passed through two elimination rounds. We benefited from some rain in the elimination round, being one of only two teams comprised exclusively of ST cars (Street Tires FTW). We we’re eliminated in the “Elite Eight” as it were, after advancing from the Rounds of 32 and 16.
Getting to the stupid part; last year this was a pretty quick event, so I’d sorta expected to be home around 5-6PM. Due to some timing issues and late start, things were running a little behind, and I didn’t get home until 9:30PM. This made things a little dicey getting ready, and probably contributed to forgetting things.
Anyway, I’ll try to get some pictures up here in a little bit, though there hasn’t been much auto-related stuff yet. We’ll get there.
Also, I hate air travel. It is stupid and uncomfortable and everything about it is the worst. I’d almost take a Conestoga wagon over this crap. Furthermore, airlines need to start enforcing overhead baggage size limits. It annoys the crap out of me that people just bring stuff on that they know is too big and take up all the space. Shiny happy people, all of them. Also, why does boarding have to be a ridiculous cluster-berkeley? Seems like they could work out a better way.
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