So I'm buying a truck...

Aaaand it's a beater that "ran when parked." Luckily, I know the people I'm buying it from, so there has been full disclosure of everything that is wrong with it, to the best of their knowledge, and I'm not paying all that much for it in any case.

It's a 1992 Ford F150 XLT 4x4, in a charming shade of red that reminds me of dried blood. The truck was parked 2 years ago at the cattle farm where we do our rallycross events. The truck was used on the farm, and when it developed a transmission problem, was towed to the location where it now rests (next to the dead BMW E30 track cars) and hasn't been touched in 2 years. However, when they put it up, the gas tank was drained and the battery was removed. I suspect there was some gas left in the tank, possibly just enough to turn into varnish and screw everything up.

A start attempt was made after I added about 3 gallons of fuel and left the key in the accessory position for a while to get the fuel pump running. We couldn't get it to turn over, but the 82 year old current owner advises me that the engine was rebuilt and it used to run strong. We blasted it with some starting fluid and it did turn over very briefly.

The known issues:

1. The transmission (or transfer case) isn't working right. Apparently it will move only in 4wd mode, but after it started getting flaky, they just dumped it where it still sits today and nothing further was done.

2. It won't start. I suspect a fuel issue of one sort or another, as noted above.

3. The alternator started smoking when I attached a battery to it. I've never seen that before. We disconnected that bad boy; I'll just get a new one. I am hoping that this isn't indicative of larger electrical problems.

4. It needs a comprehensive suspension intervention. It looks like the original equipment is on there. How old is the suspension? Well...

5. Mileage is unknown, because the digital odometer has no display, but suspected at "lots." Apparently this happened while it was parked. The truck is old enough that I don't have to worry about it to get it registered and inspected, but I kind of like knowing when to do my oil changes and stuff.

6. The title was cancelled because the truck was listed as junk for tax purposes. This won't be a problem, as I know the people from whom I am buying it and NC has a clear process to get a new title.

7. The paint is a mess, and there is some Southern style surface rust on some of the edges (front of hood, back of doors) where the paint is gone. Nothing a bit of sandpaper and some self-etching primer won't fix.

8. Tires? What tires. They are still holding air after sitting for 2 years, but I wouldn't trust them for anything beyond rolling onto and off of a trailer 3-4 times.

Things I am thinking:

As noted, the entire suspension will get done. I'll be going for a mild lift, nothing crazy, 3 inches at most. It still has to be able to tow a trailer and I don't plan on rock climbing with it, I just want to avoid getting stuck high center. Heck, the truck might be raised a bit already, but it doesn't really look like it.

The transmission is beyond my ken, so I'll have to have a professional take care of whatever is wrong with that or source one from a junkyard. The latter probably won't be terribly hard, and I'll be looking for crash vehicles, as they were running right up until the impact.

I am hoping I can get it running and the engine is strong, but I am prepared for the worst. From what I've been able to tell, the 5.0 engine in the truck isn't a modular engine, it is a fuel injected Windsor engine. If that is true, they made tons of those things, so finding a used one shouldn't be a problem.

So, if the engine is toast, I'll drop a new one in there, because that is what we do here. If I can find an engine out of an explorer or Mountaneer, I'll go with that, since they have the GT40P heads.

The truck in question, soon to be a beach buggy built for hauling kayaks to surf launches and other fishing adventures:

It looks pretty straight hope you got a good deal. Heck its newer than my miata :)

The known issues: 1. The transmission (or transfer case) isn't working right. Apparently it will move only in 4wd mode, but after it started getting flaky, they just dumped it where it still sits today and nothing further was done.

Sounds like a transfer case issue. The transmission will work the same regardless of whether its in 2wd or 4wd. If it only works in 4wd, then the transfer case is not sending power to the rear wheels. This can be verified on some jack stands. A 92 F150 should have an E4OD transmission. That can be verified by the OD button on the shifter and a transmission code of "E" on the doorjamb sticker.

2. It won't start. I suspect a fuel issue of one sort or another, as noted above.

Standard diagnosis applies here. Check for fuel pressure first, then spark. MAP sensors and EGR valves are a common issue.

3. The alternator started smoking when I attached a battery to it. I've never seen that before. We disconnected that bad boy; I'll just get a new one. I am hoping that this isn't indicative of larger electrical problems.

Shouldn't be any major issue. The charging system is just as simple as an old-school small block. If the alternator is smoking, its the alternator.

4. It needs a comprehensive suspension intervention. It looks like the original equipment is on there. How old is the suspension? Well...

Suspension parts are cheap. Really cheap.

As noted, the entire suspension will get done. I'll be going for a mild lift, nothing crazy, 3 inches at *most*. It still has to be able to tow a trailer and I don't plan on rock climbing with it, I just want to avoid getting stuck high center. Heck, the truck might be raised a bit already, but it doesn't really look like it.

Just my opinion, drive it first without the lift. Even my 95 2wd F250 had more clearance than I could ever over do. Lifts are expensive, often compromise handling and ride, and unless you plan to crawl rocks or do some serious off-roading, they are mostly for looks.

The transmission is beyond my ken, so I'll have to have a professional take care of whatever is wrong with that *or* source one from a junkyard. The latter probably won't be terribly hard, and I'll be looking for crash vehicles, as they were running right up until the impact.

There are a few things you can check first (like putting it on jackstands and testing). If it won't move in 2wd, but it does move in 4wd, it really has to be the transfer case. Snapped output shaft? Stripped splines on the output shaft? After running an ethical transmission shop for 7 years I can tell you that transmission shops are not the most ethical bunch I've seen. Many of them capitalize on the fact that most people don't know crap about transmissions. Educate yourself first so you are sure you aren't getting hosed.

I am hoping I can get it running and the engine is strong, but I am prepared for the worst. From what I've been able to tell, the 5.0 engine in the truck isn't a modular engine, it is a fuel injected Windsor engine. If that is true, they made *tons* of those things, so finding a used one shouldn't be a problem.

Correct. You have a Windsor 5.0. Its the same engine that Ford used back as far as 1966 but it has EFI. Parts are cheap. Mod motors came in 4.6L or 5.4L and they are a whole different animal. They didn't come around until 96-97.

Your truck seems to have the "rear wheel arch rust-out delete" option. Good find. If you can't fix everything on that truck with a few trips to the junkyard, you're not doing it right.

+1 to both post above.

Add www.fordtrucks.com forums are great! and look up the "J Mod" for the trans did my 96 and man that helped a ton. granted my trans was 100% fine when i did it but it firmed it up and cooled it down while towing. I still see my old truck it on the 3rd owner after me now over 225k and trans has not been touched other then the J mod and "max ATF" change i did.

Thanks for the replies. This is why I love this forum. Unless you've bought a biturbo, dropping a "look what I got" post results in encouragement and good advice. I'm excited and having another vehicle on the way means I have to actually get my butt in gear and finish putting the brakes on the Golf so I have somewhere to work on the truck.

Curtis: I'm going to be driving it on the Outer Banks and Gold Coast in NC. That means soft, deep sand. You're probably right and a good tire package will be a better way to go to avoid getting stuck. Maybe I can get some coil springs that would lift it an inch or so instead of doing a full on lift kit.

Also, come on down to Raleigh and fix my transmission. What will probably happen is I'll do the jackstands test and then, depending on what happens there, pull the appropriate parts off the truck and post up some pictures asking for advice if it isn't obvious to me what is wrong.

ddavidv: The extreme lack of rust is why I bought it, even though it is probably going to cost $1000 in junkyard parts to get it working again. It is my understanding that the truck has never left NC, was never on the beach and got washed every week because of, well, cow patties. As for fixing it, I wanted an F150 because they've made millions of them and kept carrying over parts.

44dwarf: Thanks for the tip, I'm registering on their forums now.

That is way to nice for an ex-farm truck.

Re: T-case issue:

Apply penetrating oil and try exercising the linkages and lever at the t-case. IIRC, a large crescent wrench on the t-case lever should be able to move it. I had one freeze up there. Powah off, of course.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wmhOFvMiOM

Brett_Murphy wrote: 3. The alternator started smoking when I attached a battery to it. I've never seen that before. We disconnected that bad boy; I'll just get a new one. I am hoping that this isn't indicative of larger electrical problems.

Windings shorted to the case from sitting - I had a starter in a boat do this. But in my case the battery started smoking - dead short!

I turned down a 4runner not long ago for having waaaaay less problems than that.

In reply to GameboyRMH:

SUVs are cheap. Full sized 4x4 pickup trucks in this area seem to cost $2500 and up if they simply run.

I know how to test if the rear end is an LSD. If it isn't what options do I have for putting one in there?

I'm not sure what rear end is in there now, as I don't have access to the door sticker yet. I know the front is a Dana, what rear end did these trucks have in them?

I have always understood:

1. Jack up the rear end.
2. Spin one tire.
3. If the other tire spins the opposite direction - open diff.
4. If the other tire spins the same direction - LSD

In reply to spitfirebill:

I missed your post. I should have said "a ranch"- it is a cattle farm.

When we rallycross there on dusty days, the cow patties impart an interesting flavor to the air.

I believe that they came with Ford 8.8. Lots of ratios, lsd and lockers are available. I think stock they came with anything from a 2.73 to a 3.73. Take a picture of the diff and we can tell you for sure. The 9" has a pumpkin like miata, the 8.8 does not, just a rear round cover

NGTD wrote: I have always understood: 1. Jack up the rear end. 2. Spin one tire. 3. If the other tire spins the opposite direction - open diff. 4. If the other tire spins the same direction - LSD

Works on clutch types. Won't work on a helical (Quaife, Torsen, Truetrak). They act just like opens in that case.

This link might help ya decode

http://www.f150online.com/forums/articles-how-tos/376190-how-decode-vin-number-vehicle-sticker.html

see: Axle Codes

(LS=Limited Slip / Traction Lok)

Trac Lok is a clutch type

I had a Trac-Loc installed in my Ford pick-up that came off the lot without one. Only cost $400 and some change, parts included. In 140,000 miles and some serious snowfalls I've had to drive through it's been well worth it.

Brett_Murphy wrote: I know how to test if the rear end is an LSD. If it isn't what options do I have for putting one in there? I'm not sure what rear end is in there now, as I don't have access to the door sticker yet. I know the front is a Dana, what rear end did these trucks have in them?

8.8 Rear, Dana 44 (TTB) front. Jack up the rear, turn one tire forward, if the OTHER tire spins backward.... Awww E36 M3, I'm drawing a blank on the rest...

That gen Ford F-Series/Bronco may be the best truck line ever produced. I know that 70's-80's+ Chevy/GMC trucks are up there but I'll take the Ford imo.

Edit Sorry, answers were given before mine and I didn't see them, nevermind!

Thanks, everyone.

As I posted, I know how to figure out if my truck has an LSD in it. I was soliciting opinions on what others might be using in case it does not have an LSD. There are a wealth of options available- most of the off road driving I am going to do is in deep, soft sand. There are some locals who can use a 2wd vehicle without any problem, and some of the park rangers have managed to get their very nice 4wd rigs stuck in the same areas, so sometimes it really does come down to luck and experience. I've been in the sand in my Forester, and proper tire pressure is probably the most important factor, but I'll feel better and more capable with the LSD, and if I do get stuck, I'll have nobody to blame but myself.

Also, burnouts.

I'm taking delivery of the truck next week at the earliest (it comes down to when I can get a trailer for free) so I'll be able to look at the door frame sticker then and know for sure what the axle code is. The truck was an XLT, and it seemed pretty loaded, so my gut says it probably does have posi-traction. What kind of shape it might be in is the big question.

North Carolina sucks with automobile titles.

To avoid paying road taxes, the vehicle was listed as "junk" when the transmission went out. Now, instead of just getting a new title, the vehicle has to be made roadworthy and they will inspect it in order to issue the current owner a new title, which they can then sign over to me. Even though the original owner has all of the documentation on the truck, including the original title, we have to jump through a ton of hoops.

I understand the intent (stolen and rebuilt cars, hack job repairs of wrecked cars, etc.) but it still hurts when it turns around and bites me in the ass.

Brett_Murphy said: So I'm buying a truck...

I'm moving this weekend, can you help me?