Spartan and Lockrite Lockers?

Anyone have experience with either one? It's going in the Samurai and will probably be abused.

Next question. I can only spring for one at the moment. Am I better off putting it in the front or rear axle?

Don't know the part. But I'd put the locker on the rear. They don't steer so good when locked in the front.

In the rear. That's been discussed for years. Turning is one issue if its up front, another is that you need more traction to CLIMB. Climbing is normally done going forward so weight transfer is to the rear and off the front.

Lock-Rite has a good reputation. Not sure of the other. There was a company who would take your third member and weld it the right way. Not sure I'd do that but I WOULD get a spool if there was one (I'll check). I had one in my XJ and loved it even on the street.

That being said. I NEVER needed a locker in mine (all 3). So much flex with aired down Super Swampers, didn't need it ever!

Edit! $99 spool http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki-samurai-26-spline-mini-spool-locker-141043-3.html

$156 http://www.trail-gear.com/spool-locker

I've been doing some reading since I posted the question. They say power steering is fairly important with a locked front end.

My last CJ had Detroits front and rear. I only locked the front one when doing some nasty stuff because your turning radius is measured by counties.
I've never heard any personal experience with Spartan lockers. How much are these units? I ask because there are things that I won't scrimp on, and a locker is one of them. I don't want a locker breaking and leaving me stranded.

Toyman01 wrote: I've been doing some reading since I posted the question. They say power steering is fairly important with a locked front end.

It's not do much the difficulty as much as the front just plows straight... You lose the ability to turn efficiently.

Rear! I have had a Powertrax Lock-Right in the puny D35 of my Jeep TJ since '01-ish.

You get used to the click-click-click-click-click-click.... when taking slow corners, very noticeable with the top down, still heard with soft top up. Sometimes it won't "unlock" and you'll drag a tire, chirp, chirp, chirp.

Sometimes, very rarely, you'll have done something it doesn't like, like rolling backwards, then popping the trans into drive. Then it'll scare the bajeezus out of you with a loud violent "BANG" while jerking the whole vehicle. You'll think "holly E36 M3" I broke an axle, but it was really just the locker not fully "locked," giving way to the weight of the vehicle. I've had it happen in a sharp turn once or twice too, usually tight parking lot maneuvers on pavement with plenty of traction.

In my experience, short wheel base, locked rear axle, is NOT better for icy/snow conditions. "Squirrely," is a good term, SWMBO says, "It's like herding cats." Straight line traction: I'm here, need to be there, and there's a ditch/stream/log/beached wheel in my way, there's not a better traction aid.

I've seen them broken. All the little teeth sheared off, but never in a DD conditions, it was normally due to a "Hold my beer, and watch this" moment. The more power you have and the larger the tires you have the better the chance of breaking it.

My experience is in a 2.5l, Auto, Jeep TJ, (see "my garage") basically stock, other than some bolt-ons, Lock-Right, 3" lift, and 32x12.50 tires.

• Lee

My spool was in an XJ Cherokee so maybe that's not short wheel base but I'll say that in snow and ice it was the most predictable, easy to steer vehicle I've ever driven.

In case of under steer, add throttle.

In reply to DrBoost:

As much as I would love a set of air lockers, that's not in the checking account right now. For the Samurai, they are about $1000 each.

The Spartans are about $270, the Lockrite is about $230.

Not quite as good as the real thing, but better than nothing.

Detroits aren't air lockers, they're just the old stand-by, some consider the strongest ones out there. I'm sure they're more than $270 though.

I've run one lockrite. It was wonderful for increasing off-road traction of the old Toyota. But I absolutely hated it on the street. Very inconsistent and obnoxious. In theory, it's supposed to allow the outer wheel in a turn to overrun. In actuality, it was frequently determined to lock them, or just violently bang its way through the turn. Worked when decelerating as well, what joy!

I have ran lockers in the front and rear of a samurai. I would never run a front locker again, its miserable and that was with power steering.

I've been looking at LSD/lockers for my JK. I wouldn't want to put a locker in the front. Well maybe a selectable locker (air, cable or electronic). I really don't do any rockcrawling but I would like better traction as I didn't get a factory limited slip.

I'd like to use a lunchbox locker (Powertrax, Aussie, etc) due to the low cost but I'd love a Detroit True-Trac (mechanical limited slip).

I'd say that with the type of offroading you do, a lunchbox locker in the rear would work great.

I vote weld the rear. Close friend has a hilux 4x4 I welded up 10 years ago, tons of street duty since then (like 70k miles) and no issues. Tons of abuse, donuts on tar etc. It's pretty predictable too, it's always the same (locked solid). Downside is hard on tires. We welded the front too, he just only turns one hub unless he's stuck. I don't know that i'd do that to anything of mine though. If $ is no object I like an lsd in rear and arb front.

I ran front and rear lockrites in my 80 f150. I drove it on the street regularly. It was a lot of fun.

+1 for not putting one in the front. I'd only put a manually selectable locker in the front. And if you're going to be driving this on the street a lot, I'd recommend one on the rear.

I have a lock-rite in the back of mine, it's great offroad but a huge PITA on the street...it just stays locked up most of the time. I should have either saved my money and got a spool or spent more on an air locker, because I more than paid the difference in repairs to the rear axle over the years.

I've heard the Spartan lockers are more streetable, I know a few guys who have them in Samurais.

IF you've never had a locker, just get a rear. You will be shocked what a rear locker will do for you. I climbed things in 2WD (locked) that my open/open CJ couldn't do before in 4WD. Front lockers really only come into play with serious rock crawling and mudding IMO.

Since I had the lock-right in the rear, sometimes I go onto muddy trails and forget to go into 4WD, I only notice when I come to a full stop and have trouble moving off, or when I go back onto the street, see that I'm already in 2WD and think "huh, so that's why the back was loose in the corners."