Let's say you had a small car that needs paint to prevent it from rusting. Now let's say you're not a fan of flat black. What colors come out the best when you use them to spray paint entire car? It's my intention to keep the car from rusting for as little money as possible. It also won't hurt my dealings with my neighbors, if it's all one color, and, therefore, less of an eyesore. Maybe Maaco still does $225 cheapie single-stage paint jobs?
If you're just worried about preventing rust I'd paint it with a catalyzed epoxy primer like Ditzler DP40 or PPG JP37 Series. Most are available in several colors. Of course if you don't have a compressor and gun that's a bit of a problem....
Unless you have a situation where you have removed the paint and need to protect the bare metal, I don't see how paint is going to stop rust.
Only way to stop rust is to cut it out and repaint, or coat it with a rust encapsulator like POR.
If it is just a ghetto color change you are after, I would buy implement paint at TSC and beg borrow steal any cheap compressor and gun I could get my hands on. You going to prime this or don't care?
Partly in jest, partly serious, because I've heard of people using a roller.
Entirely done with spray paint:
That might not make your neighbors more appreciative. 
BTW, this one was entire done with spray paint too (including the ghost logo), but you did say no black:
Are you OK with a bright color?
TSC can sell you a gallon of tractor paint in any tractor manufacturer's brand color for about $25. If you sand the rust lightly and brush or roll the tractor paint on, it will protect it and not look too bad.
That's what the Mumpkin is.
Only problem is you will be limited to John Deere Green, Kubota Orange, Caterpillar Yellow, Ford Blue, and Massey Ferguson Red.
Maaco still does the $250 single stage, cover the windows with newspaper special. Otherwise, check out the LeMons photo forum, many of the cars there are spray painted.
White or other light colors does a better job of hiding flaws in the body than black.
I do not have a compressor or spray gun. Preventing rust is a primary concern, because the previous owner sanded off most of the original finish and covered the body in rattle can primer. Making it all one color is a priority, because then it can live outside without pissing off my neighbors. It's got a burgundy interior, so Massey Ferguson red might be a reasonable option, unless, of course, somebody makes white tractors and white tractor paint is available.
if you live near a boating supply place, they do make "topside" paints that roll reasonably well too.. more expensive than tractor paint, but pretty sturdy and made to be "rolled and tipped" to bring out a reasonably smooth and shiny surface
SVreX wrote: Entirely done with spray paint:
And more orange peel than the produce aisle, if you look at where the light is trying to reflect off.
White will hide more imperfections. If you want real cheap then Rustoleum diluted 1 part to 2 parts acetone. You can use a bug sprayer to apply but make sure you mix well so that you don't clog the sprayer. With some effort into masking it should give you a 20 footer.
Spray painted this one.
TSC sells their tractor paint in I-H white, $30/gallon.
Yeah...if it is currently covered in primer, you should topcoat it ASAP. Funny how many people think "I'll shoot some primer on to protect it until I paint" not realizing that primer is kinda porous ( kinda how it works).
I would ask what it cost to rent a compress and gun for the day, cause spray cans are expensive. What about the "Preval" spray system?
Spray bomb rustoleum
Worked so well I did it again
M030 wrote: Making it all one color is a priority, because then it can live outside without pissing off my neighbors. It's got a burgundy interior, so Massey Ferguson red might be a reasonable option, unless, of course, somebody makes white tractors and white tractor paint is available.
I'd recommend taping it off, as if spraying, and rolling thinned Rustoleum or tractor paint on with a foam roller. Do several thin coats, and if going tractor, add the catalyst. You can mix colors (like, say, black and red for burgundy). Let it dry for a couple of hours, and repeat until you have a nice, thick coat. A couple of weeks later, you can sand, and buff to get a nice finish. I think Hot Rod had an article somewhere along the way. Oh yeah, one final step-Build Thread. Good luck.
Is this a quickie job or something you have time to make as right as possible? I've heard that the rustoleum roller option works well, but you have to be able to spend time with it. Probably a couple of weekends to finish it.
I think any method (roller, spray bomb, etc) can come out looking well if you take the time to prep, let dry and wet sand between coats. I've also heard of people doing it with airless sprayers and coming out with decent results. Again, it's all in the prep and time, though.
And, I'll second lighter colors to hide imperfections. White, beige, silver, etc.
-Rob
Are you planning to just dump paint on it and have it repainted properly later on, or is the paint you're planning to put on going to be the final finish?
If it's the former I'd make sure that whatever you end up using isn't going to interfere with the paint that goes on later.
One of the better way to hide imperfections is using semi-gloss or flat paint, that might be worth a consideration. I'd avoid black and very dark hues as they tend to show up imperfections.
What about using Plastidip?
In reply to Knurled:
If you say so. Since I have the actual car and can stare at it as much as I like in all lighting conditions, I might disagree with your opinion.
Orange peel (and other imperfections) are not generally about whether or not the material came out of a spray can. ANY paint can be put in a can- spray paint (in of itself) is not inferior.
Imperfections are more typically caused by preparation and application technique. Thickness, layers, sanding between, # coats, etc.
OP said he wanted to correct an eyesore. Doesn't sound like it needs to be Concours grade.
If the paint has similar ratios of pigments and solvents, it's the same paint, regardless of whether it has been applied with a spray can or industrial sprayer.
The reason spray cans are typically viewed as inferior are:
1) Cheap spray paint has less pigment and
2) People stink at proper lapping with a spray can, and maintaining good distances while remaining perpendicular to the surface.
These issues can exist just as easily with a spray rig.
In reply to BoxheadTim:
The Plastidipped car I recently bought looks horrible, even from 50'.
Maybe do all the disassembly, sanding, prep work and whatnot at home and then have MAACO or similar paint the car? I think several challenge entries have followed this formula in the past with great results. If you remove the stuff they normally put overspray all over and sand the old finish properly a cheap paint job can come out pretty nice.
DeadSkunk wrote: TSC sells their tractor paint in I-H white, $30/gallon.
Weren't there white ford tractors too? Not sure if that would effect the price...
XLR99 wrote:
My Dad told me he used to use a powder puff to paint the used cars on his lot in the 50's . He also used to assemble one Christmas tree out of several, so actual results may vary.
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