I found a 99' Impreza recently that was in need of a clutch and scooped it up for use as a cheap rallycross car. This is the first car I've come across with a clutch so bad you could be in gear with the engine running and the clutch released but not move one bit! I finished pulling the engine this evening to inspect the damage and work on repairing this car and I have two questions for the minds of GRM.
When I was separating the engine and transmission I heard something hit the ground and found a small broken stud with a rounded tip. I'm not sure where this came from or if it needs replaced. There appears to be a threaded hole behind the clutch fork with the right threads but I don't see a broken piece inside the hole. Any ideas?
Broken Stud
Potential original location
And I'm curious if I should resurface this flywheel or just get a replacement. I haven't have one this heat checked before.
Just for fun, this is what the clutch looked like.
And the rally beater itself
Tk8398
HalfDork
6/2/21 12:33 a.m.
Not sure on the stud, but the extra hole doesn't have anything in it, that's where the pivot ball goes on one with a cable clutch. Definitely get a new flywheel, they are cheap on Amazon.
Many slave cylinders come with a plastic retaining clip that breaks the first time the clutch pedal is pressed. It allows you to install the slave cylinder in the retracted position. Maybe it was one of those?
That almost looks like the end of a cable.
Looks like the end of a plastic retaining clip to me.
Ugh that gives me flashbacks to my Subaru. Not sure what that little widget is. Plastic or metal?
I would replace the flywheel with an Exedy, ACT, or Fidanza. Whatever works well with your clutch.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I still haven't identified what the threaded stud is from, but everything else appears to be where it should. Parts arrive in a few days to get it all back together and I'll know if I made a mistake soon after.
As for the flywheel a local machine shop was able to resurface it for just $30. I picked it up on my way home from work today.
So I guess engine removal is the easiest path to a clutch job on a Subie? I may need to do one on my 2.5 RS in a year or so.
Tk8398
HalfDork
6/5/21 5:59 a.m.
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:
So I guess engine removal is the easiest path to a clutch job on a Subie? I may need to do one on my 2.5 RS in a year or so.
Yes, it's not too hard to do though.
Tk8398 said:
AnthonyGS (Forum Supporter) said:
So I guess engine removal is the easiest path to a clutch job on a Subie? I may need to do one on my 2.5 RS in a year or so.
Yes, it's not too hard to do though.
Almost everything can be accessed from above to yank the engine out, off the top of my head it's just draining the coolant, unbolting the exhaust and engine mounts from below.
In reply to adam525i :
Sounds like if I move to prepared class and do a header, I should just do the clutch at the same time. I could also do the short or long block and be rid of my oil consumption issue. But honestly other than driving it back from Arizona, the oil consumption isn't a problem on the 200ish mile round trip I take for rallycross.
I found advice online showing both options, pulling the engine or transmission out. The engine looked like the easier path for me working from above the car, avoiding rusty exhaust bolts, and pressing my engine hoist into use for a few days. I also plan to do the timing belt and water pump as well while access is good.
Pulling the trans is a huge pain in the ass because you have to deal with the differential flange shield that usually will break all the bolts off when you try to remove it.
It's also way easier to line the engine and trans up when you are working with an engine hoist and not trying to use a trans jack or floor jack under a 160lb trans with no good way to keep it stable because of how it's a clamshell design.
I appreciate the comments. I will be able to use this info soon myself. I learned bleeding the clutch is a pain. Thank goodness the slave cylinder is in a convenient location.
