Subaru clutches are irritating

The first clutch in my dads 96 legacy lasted over 300k before it starts to slip too bad to drive anymore. We had the local napa resurface the flywheel and put a new sachs clutch kit in, and the clutch chattered so bad it was miserable to drive. After about 30k miles the clutch fork pivot punched though the clutch fork, so we changed the clutch again, this time with a replacement flywheel from carquest, another of the same sachs clutch kit, and a new factory fork and clutch cable. This time the clutch didnt chatter, but the clutch cable wouldn't stay adjusted long because the locknuts would vibrate loose on the cable. In the last week or two the clutch engagement point has moved from near the floor toward the top of the pedal travel, and now even though the clutch cable is actually a little loose the clutch is slipping because it wont engage all the way anymore. So, time to pull the engine again, probably buy another new clutch kit, and put it back together again. Does anyone have any idea what might have broken or come apart this time? The only things I can think of are that the pressure plate is coming loose from the flywheel, or that part of it is broken. I would never own another subaru, its fairly easy to work on, but parts are really expensive(almost $500 in parts for a timing belt change, wtf?), and nothing that you fix stays fixed, the same stuff ended up breaking again several times.

Wow, I don't know where you're getting your parts, but I've never spent more than $200 on timing belt replacement stuff...also, think about your statement. The original clutch lasted over 300k. Ever since you replaced it multiple times, it has not worked right. Logic would indicate that you're not doing something right, not that the car is out to get you. It sounds like the clutch was improperly broken in the first time if it was really chattery. Could also be a bad pressure plate.

...now even though the clutch cable is actually a little loose the clutch is slipping because it wont engage all the way anymore

You just came up with the solution yourself. Tighten the clutch cable. It should never be "a little loose." If it is loose it will slip. Make sure your nuts are TIGHT against each other and put a dab of Loctite on when you have the adjustment set up to your preference.

I understand that you are ranting a bit. But you need to adjust the clutch and tighten the lock nuts with some threadlocker. As far as the clutch I suppose other people could possibly had some luck with the Sachs clutch kit, but in my personal experience the Exedy(oem) is the only way to go.

Unless you are including the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, idlers, tensioners, all filters, spark plugs, all the gaskets, and all hoses on the 2.2 engine in that $500 then you overpaid for the timing belt parts. If you are replacing all of that stuff on any motor then you are going to spend at least that much and probably more. A more common price for the Gates timing belt kit with belt, tensioners, idlers, and Water pump is $200. And you could pay less if you shop around.

Ojala wrote: As far as the clutch I suppose other people could possibly had some luck with the Sachs clutch kit, but in my personal experience the Exedy(oem) is the only way to go.

+1, forgot to mention that Exedy is the way to go whenever possible.

You do know that the chattering issue is most likely caused bu the input shaft having a groove worn in it, right? There are fixes to this, which also make the clutch in a Subaru feel like a real clutch (Subaru clutch feel downright sucks).

http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1793&idcategory=92#details

Also, maybe I am confused, but I swear that car should have a hydraulic clutch in it...

Hmm, I had never heard of the repair kit for the transmission, that's interesting. Otherwise I think that the first clutch chattering was due to the fact that the flywheel was not machined properly. Its a 96 so it has a cable clutch, and the sachs kit that i bought was the same as the clutch I took out which appeared to be original. Unless this car is totally different than any others I have worked on, the problem I was describing is the exact opposite of a loose clutch cable. My understanding of a loose clutch cable is that the clutch won't disengage all the way so it will crunch when you shift, engage too low, etc. In this case, the clutch wont grab all the way, like it would when the disc is totally worn out, except this clutch doesn't even have 10k miles on it. I agree I am probably doing something wrong, but if I can change the clutch on my old turbo dodge, b13 sentra, my sisters Jetta, and my Milano without any trouble, the fact that I can't seem to get this one to work still makes me annoyed with the car. lol

The prices I have seen on timing belt kits were ~$150 for everything but the idlers, and about another $300 for those (dealer a little more, napa auto parts a little less). On an MK2 VW timing belt and tensioner is about $40, and on my alfa it was under $200 for the belt, water pump, tensioner bearing and all the seals if I remember right. so IMO thats pretty expensive.

$150 for everything but the idlers... so is that $150 for a timing belt? Because if I recall, the timing belt is like, $50 maybe.

Also, how was the flywheel machined?

If it was cut with a lathe, then it wouldn't get the hardened spots left from the slipping clutch. It should be ground on a milling machine or not cut at all. Also some flywheels have a particular spec for refinishing.

+1 to tightening your nuts following the factory specs with loctite. :))

First, calm down and breathe a little. Its just a car, they are just parts and they need to installed properly and broken in properly.