Suggest me - cheapish, trackable car with decent resale value and easy prep

Too many seating mods. Multiple different race seats, multiple different sidemounts, too many co-spatial events between seat, rollbar and myself. Never a seating position that allowed me to stretch my leg just right.

Proper custom rollbar might be the only thing that would work for me but I'm not spending that sort of coin on the off chance that it might work.

So why not put the money into the MR2 and get it working properly?

docwyte wrote: So why not put the money into the MR2 and get it working properly?

Seems to be the logical answer

I was going to suggest improved touring or one of the other racing sites classified sections, as long as you are up for towing. Seems like you'll get a better deal that way.

If not, I'm thinking +1 on the E36. Get the best you're willing to pay for, spend a weekend going over it with a fine toothed comb. Order service/upgrade parts. Spend the next weekend installing them.

There were 3 1st gen RX7 race cars on the local SFBay CL for sub $2k. New tires, fresh fluids, fit the seat and good to go. I'm sure some of them are still available but the posting expired.

Open trailers can be had for under $2k used or ~$2,200 new: http://www.performancespecialty.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=28

Or 2nd gen RX7, add a seat, coilovers, camber plates, maintenance.

Or cheap, early RX8 add a seat, maintenance, some suspension work.

FWD sucks for track duty. Don't get that desparate or you'll find yourself at the start of this infinite loop you started.

BoxheadTim wrote: Too many seating mods. Multiple different race seats, multiple different sidemounts, too many co-spatial events between seat, rollbar and myself. Never a seating position that allowed me to stretch my leg just right. Proper custom rollbar might be the only thing that would work for me but I'm not spending that sort of coin on the off chance that it might work.

I'm racing at Sonoma this weekend. You're welcome to come by and sit in a few cars - Miatas and RX7s and BMWs will be in abundance.

In reply to amg_rx7:

Wait, what club is running at Sonoma this weekend?

Milanos show up occasionally, there is a nice one on SF bay right now but its an automatic. If you want a tdi Jetta, I know someone who regularly buys mk3s from copart and Craigslist, idk if he has any that aren't too nasty right now, but it shouldn't be hard to find one. They are pretty slow stock and take a lot of money to make fast though.

How is a TDi Jetta in any sort of even the remotest contention here as a track car?

Why not look for an old Baretta, or maybe just name some cars no car guy wants. How about an 85 Reliant K?

I have to go stab myself in the eyes with a fork. When I get back... there better be a reason why you haven't already acquired a $2500 E36 325i in light of other options presented here or I'm going to put a bag of kittens in the river.

ryanty22 wrote:

docwyte wrote: So why not put the money into the MR2 and get it working properly?

Seems to be the logical answer

I wondered the same thing.

accordionfolder wrote: In reply to amg_rx7: Wait, what club is running at Sonoma this weekend?

San Francisco region SCCA - http://www.sfrscca.org/

Should be a good set of races given the Nationals at Laguna in a few months. Come on down. Spectate, hang out, meet some racers, check out some cool cars.

z31maniac wrote:

ryanty22 wrote:

docwyte wrote: So why not put the money into the MR2 and get it working properly?

Seems to be the logical answer

I wondered the same thing.

Several reasons:

• I don't have the time to do the work until about late October. I have family coming over from Europe and need to finish the renovation on the guest rooms by then
• My preferred mechanic is in Japan at the moment, plus his new shop is unlikely to open until September/October
• The other preferred mechanic works in a shop where he can't have a car block his lift for a week, he's already got one like that. Plus, I'd have to pay main dealer rates.
• This car is an onion in the worst possible way - you peel something away, you find more. There is not much in the way of a guarantee that we'll be able to fix it in good time for the next track day even at $120/h.
• I'm already $10k into an $8k car. Paying a mechanic to do the work is very likely to turn it into a $15k car that's worth $8k. At some point the economist in me says that hemorrhaging must stop. The money pit part is also why I don't want to just bail, because as it is right now it's probably worth $3k, maybe $4k as it sits

Giant Purple Snorklewacker wrote: How is a TDi Jetta in any sort of even the remotest contention here as a track car?

That was a semi-joke, although at some point there was (is?) a spec series for them...

amg_rx7 wrote: There were 3 1st gen RX7 race cars on the local SFBay CL for sub $2k. New tires, fresh fluids, fit the seat and good to go. I'm sure some of them are still available but the posting expired.

Yeah, I just looked at lunchtime and they seem to have fallen off. Right on cue.

I've also seen a couple of cars that might be of interest in June's The Wheel and have a wanted ad out on the local SCCA forum.

amg_rx7 wrote: FWD sucks for track duty. Don't get that desparate or you'll find yourself at the start of this infinite loop you started.

Well, it is a measure of my desperation that I'm even considering a FWD track car...

In reply to BoxheadTim: If track time is your objective, You need to find a track prepped car to rent.

I think anything you buy in that price range you will find issues with that will suck up time and money before you are happy with it.

BoxheadTim wrote:

z31maniac wrote:

ryanty22 wrote:

docwyte wrote: So why not put the money into the MR2 and get it working properly?

Seems to be the logical answer

I wondered the same thing.

Several reasons: - I don't have the time to do the work until about late October. I have family coming over from Europe and need to finish the renovation on the guest rooms by then - My preferred mechanic is in Japan at the moment, plus his new shop is unlikely to open until September/October - The other preferred mechanic works in a shop where he can't have a car block his lift for a week, he's already got one like that. Plus, I'd have to pay main dealer rates. - This car is an onion in the worst possible way - you peel something away, you find more. There is not much in the way of a guarantee that we'll be able to fix it in good time for the next track day even at $120/h. - I'm already $10k into an $8k car. Paying a mechanic to do the work is very likely to turn it into a $15k car that's worth $8k. At some point the economist in me says that hemorrhaging must stop. The money pit part is also why I don't want to just bail, because as it is right now it's probably worth $3k, maybe $4k as it sits

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunk_costs

BoxheadTim wrote: Too many seating mods. Multiple different race seats, multiple different sidemounts, too many co-spatial events between seat, rollbar and myself. Never a seating position that allowed me to stretch my leg just right. Proper custom rollbar might be the only thing that would work for me but I'm not spending that sort of coin on the off chance that it might work.

As someone else mentioned before, did you break out the spot weld cutter and remove the rear seat mounts? In my experience that tends to make all the difference in getting your butt low enough and far enough back to give your legs some room. Side mounts with an FIA seat cannot always get you low enough which tends to exacerbate the leg/knee issue.

Find a prepped car with a cage, logbook, and get a tow vehicle. By the time you are done spending money on partially prepped vehicles you will have lost enough money to buy a cheap tow vehicle and trailer. A street driver/track car quickly becomes an untenable compromise when you want to keep those parts of the car that make it a street car like carpet and seat mounts etc, yet prepare it for the track. $8k would buy you a starter spec miata and trailer pretty much anywhere in the country and you wouldn't care about hacking up the floor to get the seat exactly where you want it. The best part about the starter car is you will lose very little money unless your roll it into a ball. Very little money is still defined as very little money 'for a race car' but street cars aren't saving you anything at this point.

Are LS1 Camaros just not competitive at all? They are so cheap around here and sure seem like if you need more interior room they have all the parts required to be a decent largish track car.

An early c5 with good tires, good brakes, and a race seat would be good.

Yes you have to borrow money but they have probably hit the bottom of their depreciation curve at least for the near future considering they are getting dangerously close to c4 prices. So you probably won't loose your ass on it.

Also they have enough power stock to be fun on track and not cause you to loose interest. Plus at stock power levels the drive train is dead nuts reliable.

The less you have to chop it up to make a race car the better your resale value.

HUge aftermarket, C6 stuff is really cheap and a good upgrade. Common swap is c6 z06 shocks and c6 z51 sways under 600 bucks from gm parts.

Also ls1s don't suffer from the same oiling issues the later model ls motors due.

But you do have to borrow money, but at 5k how much work will you have to put into something to make it decent on the track.

Sub 5k. 3rd or 4th Gen fbody, c4, new edge stang, aw11, rx7.

FWD. Focus, SVT suspension package is like 250. I think it's shocks and springs. Neon. I can't think of anything else because my brain is filled with an irrational hate of fwd.

Since you don't want to put much time or money into it and then resell at the end of the season I will throw out something different.

Chevy cobalt ss

Recent bad publicity has dropped values for these cars. A quick look on autotrader had several under 80k miles for under $7,000. Hit or miss on how much life on shocks but a set of decent brake pads on the factory Brembos and a track alignment and you should be alright.

Oddly enough, an Ion Redline is currently sitting in my CL favourites list.

Mind you, the Formula Vee that I looked at a couple of weeks ago is still available, well within budget (until the parts bill starts showing up of course) and might be an option.

BoxheadTim wrote: Oddly enough, an Ion Redline is currently sitting in my CL favourites list. Mind you, the Formula Vee that I looked at a couple of weeks ago is still available, well within budget (until the parts bill starts showing up of course) and might be an option.

The downside to an open wheel car is the more limited availability of track time.

If you've ruled out a Miata, then an E36 is the obvious next step. 74K and a salvage title on this one? http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4536794292.html

codrus wrote:

BoxheadTim wrote: Oddly enough, an Ion Redline is currently sitting in my CL favourites list. Mind you, the Formula Vee that I looked at a couple of weeks ago is still available, well within budget (until the parts bill starts showing up of course) and might be an option.

The downside to an open wheel car is the more limited availability of track time.

Which is why I haven't jumped on it yet.

codrus wrote: If you've ruled out a Miata, then an E36 is the obvious next step. 74K and a salvage title on this one? http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4536794292.html

Thanks. That looks pretty good actually.

Yeah, but now you're looking at another car in a low cost segment that's gonna be a $hitbox, break down on you and cost you a bunch of money and time. Haven't you already had enough experience dealing with those sorts of scenarios? Like the miata or the 325ix or now the MR2...

There's NO such thing as a cheap, performance, track car. Been there, done that, have all the broken parts and empty wallet to show for it. You gotta figure any $5000 car that's a decent track car will cost you another $5000 to truly get up to proper track condition, where it doesn't break something every time you go out there and pound on it.

Either sell the MR2 for whatever you can get for it now and then turn around and use that money plus whatever else you have to buy something that's actually in good shape and decently sorted, or knuckle under and pay someone to fix the MR2.

I have to agree with the good doc.