The best rallyX car is a rental.
The best rallyX car is a rental.
irish44j wrote: Still thinking on the Isuzu Stylus (sooo light, high-revving engine, but hard as hell to get parts and mods for)
The Stylus XS/RS isn't particularly light, especially if you add the turbo and AWD drivetrain. The Impulse RS weighs nearly as much as a Impreza 2.5RS. I think I'd go with a Subaru, maybe a 2.2L AWD Impreza L sedan?
irish44j wrote: In reply to Mezzanine: trust me, I was just re-looking at the GRM issues where they rallied the Saab, and admiring it. IDK why I'm scared of Saabs.....but if it looks like the one you posted the pic of, I could get over it fast :)
Dont be scared Irish... I'll admit, I am a SAAB guy, so I am biased, but I honestly think they are great cars to work on. There is lots of fastener standardization, no tool entrapment, and they are just plain easy to work on. The transmissions can be a sensitive point if you are in the habit of thrashing, but if you can drive it with some consideration, it will hold together just fine. The rest of the car, however, you can beat on with everything you have. Go to http://saabrally.com/forums/ to learn more.
That, or do like scardeal says: get a rental. 
scardeal wrote: The best rallyX car is a rental.
Drive a car you didn't build? What fun is that?
In reply to Knurled:
Also a car you don't have to repair.
The current target is a starter rallycrosser for me:
'85 BMW 318i.
Once you stop laughing about the total lack of power, I'll note why it's a good deal IMO. 1. in good shape, running condition, little to no rust, and very cheap 2. a few minor issues, but mostly with the gauge cluster and window motors (will switch them to manual anyhow) 3. has an LSD (probably a 3.91 out of a newer 325is) 4. comes with a spare M10 motor and spare 5speed tranny, as well as a second set of wheels (BBS style) and a few other OEM spare wheels, and a bunch of other parts (aftermarket and OEM). 5. can (and will) be powerd up eventually with an M40 :) 6. can (and will) be registered vintage...so no inspection, no emissions. 7. lots of cheapish parts (used and aftermarket) out there,unlike several other cars I've considered.
I know, not that exciting, especially with an M10. But I think it will be a good starter build, with room to upgrade. The car has been weighed at 2300lbs, so with a bit more power it should be fun. And the added bonus is I get to beat up on a BMW, which will make me smile.
Another plus is that the wife considers an e30 to be "acceptable" to be parked in the driveway (something I cannot say about alot of cars that I have mentioned to her, lol).
and I can cross e30 off my bucket list of cars I need to own.
So we'll see. For $1k or so I get a running, street-legal car with alot of spares to go beat up on and save my DD wrx for a while. Going to see it Sunday.
flame away.
eh, sounds reasonable. 
loving the irony of wrx dd and bmw rallyx beater. 
Geekspeed wrote:Maroon92 wrote: Stock or Prepared Front - Saturn SL2 or Dodge Neon Stock or Prepared Rear - Toyota MR2 Stock or Prepared All - Any cheap Scoobaru. A decent driver should be able to trophy nationally in any of these picks. That is what I love about Rallycross.I vote no on the Saturn. I rallycrossed a 95 SL2 one time. I bent one of the front suspension arms. If you look at them, they appear to be pretty weak. Also, the chaissis is pretty flexy, so be prepared to have dirt and grime get under the doors.
imo just about every single thing about those saturns is pretty weak.
familytruckster wrote: In reply to Knurled: Also a car you don't have to repair.
Bah. That's the fun of Modified. Breaking is an opportunity to make it stronger. Stronger means you lift less. Lifting less means you go faster. And then break more stuff.
This is why RWD with solid axle is the best grassroots rallycross car. AWD is always some combination of heavy, slow, fragile. FWD is always some combination of breaking differentials or breaking axles. RWD, you can have light, fast, and strong, and no CV joints to break and you can almost always run a decent differential that isn't an explode-o-matic. It's not always the fastest way around the course, but a competent and resourceful DIY'er can put together a real anvil.
bluej wrote: loving the irony of wrx dd and bmw rallyx beater.
For most of this year I DD a WRX and rallycrossed my Miata
bluej wrote: loving the irony of wrx dd and bmw rallyx beater.
the irony is not lost on me, lol.
But with a $1k budget for a running car, there's no chance of finding a subaru for this. At least not a subaru that would be fun to drive. And the WRX is far from being paid off, so it's not gonna get beat on :)
Looks like an interesting choice. I just like seeing more RWD cars out there. They are a lot more fun than driving a saturn.
There is a group of guys locally that have been running an 87 325E BMW in rallyx starting last year.
irish44j wrote:bluej wrote: loving the irony of wrx dd and bmw rallyx beater.the irony is not lost on me, lol. But with a $1k budget for a running car, there's no chance of finding a subaru for this. At least not a subaru that would be fun to drive. And the WRX is far from being paid off, so it's not gonna get beat on :)
Keep looking
Bought for $495 - on the road with $150 worth of parts. Not the fastest thing but the outback suspensions really sucks up the bumps. I also picked up a 1/4" aluminum skidplate for $50
In reply to Knurled:
True, kinda gives more cred to my Crown Vic suggestion...
Yup, the viscous cycle of modification. But there comes a time when it's just too much money to mod to keep from breaking stuff....Like the fact I need a full floating 9" in my wagon....Sucks spending a grand on upgrading an 8.8 to wipe it out in one weekend. 
NGTD wrote:irish44j wrote:Keep looking Bought for $495 - on the road with $150 worth of parts. Not the fastest thing but the outback suspensions really sucks up the bumps. I also picked up a 1/4" aluminum skidplate for $50bluej wrote: loving the irony of wrx dd and bmw rallyx beater.the irony is not lost on me, lol. But with a $1k budget for a running car, there's no chance of finding a subaru for this. At least not a subaru that would be fun to drive. And the WRX is far from being paid off, so it's not gonna get beat on :)
yeah, there are alot of Outbacks out there for cheap, but I'm just not interested in them. No offense, they're nice cars, but I want something lighter, older, and smaller than my wrx....eg a GC impreza or an early legacy if I was going with Subaru...or a Justy :) None of those are easy to find in running condition for under $1k though. I was really looking out for an Outback Sport Impreza, but they're not easy to find cheap.
I already have a 4Runner and a WRX, so buying a car that basically falls right between those two isn't really the answer I'm looking for. And I long for a car that is sub-2500lbs in these days of automotive bloat.
irish44j wrote: The current target is a starter rallycrosser for me: '85 BMW 318i. ... flame away.
No flames from me. Just make sure the engine and transmission mounts don't let anything important fall out
(Their transmission fell out)
How does this thread get 4 pages long and no one mentions the Merkur XR4TI? Especially given the history, documentation, and readily available parts? Must truly be the redheaded stepchild of the GRM world... it that's possible.
Anyway, for a fun, RWD, durable, inexpensive, decent power rally-x car, I can recommend the XR. The official Ford Motorsports Rally Prep manual is readily available, and there's even someone producing all the goodies to make a full-on legit rally XR. Here's mine and some friends:
Mine (your basic, mildly modified, daily driver gone rally-x'ing XR):
A friend's completely prep'd stage rally XR that competed in the Seattle leg of the GRC in 2wd category:
Another stage rally prep'd XR:
The obvious alternative would be a Volvo 240... same potential and history and parts availability, very durable, and cheap to buy as well.
In reply to darkbuddha:
Where did you get the Cosworth style whale tail? Me likey. 
darkbuddha wrote: How does this thread get 4 pages long and no one mentions the Merkur XR4TI? Especially given the history, documentation, and readily available parts?
There really aren't many readily available parts, and replacement wear items are freakin' expensive. $250 for a ball joint? No thanks!
There are admittedly some people who are working on adating transmissions from X, differentials from Y, suspensions from Z... but at that point, the car is just a container for custom everything, and any car can be a starting point for that. (I am planning on JVAB suspension this winter)
And 240? Those cars are great... for me to beat :)
There's a $1500. AMC Eagle in the classifieds.
N Sperlo wrote: In reply to darkbuddha: Where did you get the Cosworth style whale tail? Me likey.
They're out there... they show up on ebay or the forums semi-regularly. I got mine from an outfit in Canada that is now defunct.
In reply to Knurled:
$250 for ball joints isn't exactly accurate, now is it? Especially considering the ball joints aren't replaceable. Besides, where are you buying 'em? It should be under $200 (including shipping) for new arms that have new ball joints, which isn't completely unreasonable.
As for parts suppliers, there are several Merkur specialty places now that can get most general replacement stuff (MPM, MC2, Merkur Depot, Rapido, BAT, OPMD, JVAB). Besides, new axles, new arms, and a bunch of other general wear items are readily available from the big parts warehouse type places now too. And for more serious stuff, there are also a few different places, including JVAB of course. As for prices, they might be more expensive than more common vehicles, but they're not all that out of whack with any other 20+ year old European performance car. So I don't really see the issue with either supply or prices.
BTW, yeah, a lot of stuff is custom once you get kinda serious with an XR, but that's not too different than a lot of cars either. Any car can be a starting point, but the XR does start with some good stuff to build upon (decent turbo motor, good chassis balance, IRS, etc.), including the very valuable R&D done by Ford Motorsports when the cars were being built and raced. That shouldn't be discounted... if FMS has done all the work, why not take advantage?
BTW, that is exactly where John V. has been drawing from... copying FMS parts and putting tweaks on 'em. The front brakes on my XR are John's version of the Ford Motorsports WRC package using his custom 2 piece rotors and Wilwood calipers, and I'll tell ya... they freaking work! We learned a lot that long, cold, wet January day in Seattle when we installed them. I still get a feeling of dread when I think about it... 42 degrees, soaked to the bone, laying on my back in puddles in John's driveway. Uggghhhh! In any case, you won't be disappointed with his SooperBitchin'™ bouncifiers. When I get the coin, they're on my list... along with Sean M's adjustable arms with serviceable ball joints, beam reinforcement kit, some bits from TSSFAB, and...
914Driver wrote: There's a $1500. AMC Eagle in the classifieds.
I really like that idea. Always had a little weak spot for one.
What ever car you end up getting make sure you put huge mudflaps and lots of auxilliary lights even though you dont need them...
well, of course. And I won't forget a roof scoop either, lol.
IDK that I agree about mudflaps though. I have rally armors on my WRX and they have saved the sides of the car big-time from abuse, especially in winter with road salt..
Re XR4Ti...one of my favorite cars as a kid. Haven't seen on locally for sale in many years that I recall. I'm looking for a local buy....not going to canada or halfway across the country, lol.
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