So I've been running the engine harder, but I can't shake the feeling that my engine is going to blow up. I know it's purely psychological. With that said I've installed some gauges to make sure that doesn't happen, these gauges have an alarm function. I'm not sure where they should be set.
I have an oil temp and a water temp. At that levels should I be worried and pulling back? I've got a Gen Coupe 2.0T, any guidelines would be great!
Being an aluminum engine, I'd start to back off when the water temps get to 220-ish, and I'd start to be concerned if they get to 230. Oil temps, if you're spending much time over 250, I'd want to add more cooling. I'd say 270 is probably the point where I'd start to back off to get the temps down.
Nis14 wrote: ...I've installed some gauges to make sure that doesn't happen...
It doesn't work that way, but at least now you'll get to watch in detail as it handgrenades!
Seriously, I agree with rslifkin on temps.
You do realize that your car was tested with much more abuse than you've thrown at it, right?
Seriously, ring the car's neck every once in a while, enjoy it. Its a depreciating asset, you'll never make money off of it and driving it like a grandma can do damage as much as driving it flat out all the time can. A little mechanical sympathy goes a long way, letting the car warm up before beating on it, letting it cool down a bit after being thrashed and generally keeping up on maintenance (oil and filter changes, keep the air filter clean, etc.) is all that is needed.
I'd worry about 250. Before that, some concern, but nothing to really get bothered over.
For most OEM's, the fan does not turn on to it's fullest until 220F. I just finished a test- most of the time, the engine was between 210 and 220. Which is probably never see in the real world.
I agree with everything said so far, and will add that you should add Redline water-wetter if you are seeing coolant temps above 220° often enough to make you nervous.
Don't forget, modern engines are designed to run with a hot combustion chamber, heat= power and thermal efficiency. As long as your A/F tuning is right it's all good.
A healthy engine can go to 240 for a while, but I wouldn't leave it there for long. Coolant pressure caps - the higher, the better. More pressure in your cooling system usually buys more time, but there is a limit. Oil pressure is important, too! 10 psi for every 1000 rpm is a rough guideline.
I also tend to limit coolant temp lower on aluminum engines (especially aluminum head / iron block combos) compared to an all cast iron engine due to aluminum expanding more with heat (too much expansion and you'll take out a head gasket).
Assuming you've tuned it, and added a significant dose of power, I can see where you would want to keep a eye on temps. Or for instance at a track day where the drivetrain will prolonged full throttle/ high RPM. If its still stock, or just daily driving with a flogging down the entrance ramp here and there, eh....no big deal, I wouldn't worry at all.
If you're seriously that worried about it, oil analysis. I don't mean the occasional sample sent to that black place. I mean serious, sampling every 3k miles getting yourself a baseline and monitoring that oil constantly.
Otherwise, drive it. Beat it. Abuse it. Just keep below 350whp on that stock bottom end. I beat my 2.4L Theta to within an inch of it's life. I've been doing that since I bought it (literally purchased to Auto-x and DD). Put 60k hard miles on this car, check the oil every5k. No wear. No abnormalities. HEll, I even decided to experiment with extended drain intervals with Walmart Syntech full synthetic. BTW, 10k miles is quite reasonable on that oil autoxing regularly.
You'll need to log in to post.
