yupididit said:
In reply to frenchyd :
Given that they seem to be similar to the XJS in price, weight, performance and weak aftermarket. If I were you, I'd suggest to Perry to give the car the same treatment you give your XJS to make it race ready. Gut it, suspension mods, good set of pads and run it! If he wants 650hp, throw a pair of turbos on it.
From what I read the 928 isn't that heavy. It's 900 pounds lighter than mine. A decent set of camshafts. (Overhead cams are a breeze to swap compared to Chevy's ) a couple of smaller turbo's. Some E85. And he should be there. Probably only has a 3-3&1/2 stroke 10 psi so no real pressure on the head gaskets.
I don't know where he could hide the turbo's but if they are small enough. It should be doable.
In reply to frenchyd :
So why does he need 650hp?
Your friend will need to break the car down into systems and see where he will run into roadblocks based on the car or the rule book. Example:
Chassis and Suspension: Are parts readily available or shared with other platforms? Is there an off the shelf coil over, cost? Any known weaknesses in control arms or mounting points?
Engine: Who makes race cams, timing components, intakes, oil pumps, dry sump, etc?
Do vintage rules limit upgrades to the fuel injection system? This is the scary one for me. It's obsolete, with old wiring and electronics. Can it be converted to something newer, aftermarket, carburetor?
Brakes: Do later 911, Cayenne, etc... brakes fit? What is legal in vintage? Any peculiar parts? Are aftermarket parts allowed?
Wheels and tires: Sized appropriately for the racing class and to fit over the brakes. Are they available or custom$$$?
... you get the idea. Your buddy will need to read the rules for the class he wants to race and then determine what modifications fit the rules and what parts are available. Then he will need to create a budget based on cost of the parts and estimated labor and make sure this makes sense versus buying someone else's already completed race car. It might make sense; it might not.
Jaguar, $8,000 worth of Engine parts would make the same 650 horsepower just as reliable.
Care to share your recipe for an $8k 650hp Jag V12? A friend has a couple of XJS and for that hp/price I'd probably be inclined to go get one.
In reply to frenchyd :
Curious as to how turbos are vintage eligible (kind of goes with my early question on configuration). I would think you'd need to show some precedence that they were used back in the day...
In reply to yupididit :
That's what the Camaro's and Corvettes are making. If he wants to be at the pointy end of the pack. That's what is needed.
650hp twin turbo 928 racecar sounds like a great plan for a guy with tons of 928 experience, unlimited budget and unlimited time for wrenching
In reply to Racingsnake :
Not a street car recipe. Stock it has 262 DIN net hp. A 454 post 1973 has 230 net Hp In England without the pollution stuff we have ( and 12.5-1 compression instead of our 11.5-1 compression. it's 299 There is an easy 80 horsepower on top of that basically for pocket change*
If you buy a 6.0 and tune it to British spec's you're at 346 DIN net with the same 80 horsepower gain potential.
The first change is camshafts. The British Piper & ( I forget) have some very good ones that are worth +150 hp. ( stock it's only 3/8ths lift at the valve with really short duration.) Isky and Crower* (Crower did all of Group 44's racing camshafts and port work) will regrind your camshafts and get you closer to the Chevy lift and duration. But only give you about 100 horsepower.
* realize the Jaguar was designed and tuned for ride comfort and quietness. ( and improved fuel mileage) To impress Royalty and VIP's rather than hot rodders / racers.
Up until now the engine hasn't been taken apart. Swapping cams on overhead valves can be done in 1/2 the time it takes to do a Chevy. Basically pop the valve covers off and unbolt them.
In a stock body it still won't feel thst exciting. The XJS weighs 46xx pounds. ( up there with a Cadillac). And it will do an actual 150 mph. Because it has a 2:88 final drive. Dana 44.
To smoke the tires. Swap rear ends with the later 1993-97 rear ends. 3:54 Dana 44. Unless you like going 150 mph on the street.
The stock transmission is a GM turbo 400 ( with Jaguar bolt pattern). As you know that's a pretty good transmission.
But it's really simple to swap to a Chevy bell housing if you want a manual transmission. ( which really improved the car). At this point you're at about 530 horsepower with simple work. You have only spent about $1000 to get here. Plus whatever you pay for the 6.0
Ask again if you want to get to 650+
tester (Forum Supporter) said:
Your friend will need to break the car down into systems and see where he will run into roadblocks based on the car or the rule book. Example:
Chassis and Suspension: Are parts readily available or shared with other platforms? Is there an off the shelf coil over, cost? Any known weaknesses in control arms or mounting points?
Engine: Who makes race cams, timing components, intakes, oil pumps, dry sump, etc?
Do vintage rules limit upgrades to the fuel injection system? This is the scary one for me. It's obsolete, with old wiring and electronics. Can it be converted to something newer, aftermarket, carburetor?
Brakes: Do later 911, Cayenne, etc... brakes fit? What is legal in vintage? Any peculiar parts? Are aftermarket parts allowed?
Wheels and tires: Sized appropriately for the racing class and to fit over the brakes. Are they available or custom$$$?
... you get the idea. Your buddy will need to read the rules for the class he wants to race and then determine what modifications fit the rules and what parts are available. Then he will need to create a budget based on cost of the parts and estimated labor and make sure this makes sense versus buying someone else's already completed race car. It might make sense; it might not.
The rules don't help. If the Chevy's were built using the 1972 and earlier parts they wouldn't be at 650 horsepower. At least not for long.
So cheating seems to be OK. At least with some clubs. If you want the invite to Laguna Seca you better be legal.
As far as the rest of it goes. I can't advise him because it seems Porsche started building them in 1977 and continued up through 95? SOHC, DOHC 4 valve. Variety of engine sizes horsepower, wheels etc. he hasn't gotten back to me. So I don't know what he's working with.
That may be my fault ( family issues last night) or he may have second thoughts.
Regarding EFI? Yes like the Jaguar it's an old system that does not adjust. So aftermarket with mega squirt or Maxx etc. I'm working my way through that now. Based on what I've found. If it isn't new stuff. There isn't much help out there. The most help I've gotten has been on this site. Maybe there are plug and play guys but I don't know of any.
I was hoping he and I could have some fun together but he has 16" wheels of various widths and I can can use 15" inch rims.
15" keeps me in group 6 His 16's put him up in group 12. That group goes all the way to 2018
Suspension, chances are like me he'll cut coils and stick with modest prices shocks. I'll show him how to get perfect sway bars very much on the cheap. I'm not one of those guys who buys that sort of thing. Same with bushings etc. it's so cheap and easy to make your own.
Ability to weld, tubing bender, use a lathe, vertical mill, etc. changes everything from a buy to, where is that plate of aluminum I had.
No amature can ever compete with the factory's resources. But the factory isn't involved in Vintage racing. ( well the Aston Martin factory did one time but that's another story.
An interesting part of the 928 v8 is that it has the same bore spacing and length as a big block Chevy and apparently the 928 heads can be made to fit on a big block.
Lof8 - Andy said:
650hp twin turbo 928 racecar sounds like a great plan for a guy with tons of 928 experience, unlimited budget and unlimited time for wrenching
Depending on who is doing it, you are right or wrong.
If you've followed the Nelsons you know how modest a budget they work with.
They took a SUV motor that hadn't been turbocharged and now they are going to go for an 8 second 1/4 mile time.
If you'd followed me back in the 70's through early 2000's I think you'd be impressed too.
It's hard work and doing it on a tiny budget you have to be very careful.
But it can be done.
MotorsportsGordon said:
An interesting part of the 928 v8 is that it has the same bore spacing and length as a big block Chevy and apparently the 928 heads can be made to fit on a big block.
That is interesting. The 4 valve DOHC heads?
I know the 4 valve heads on the 4.0 will bolt right onto the V12. But when the factory did it there wasnt enough gain to offset the increased weight up high.
frenchyd said:
MotorsportsGordon said:
An interesting part of the 928 v8 is that it has the same bore spacing and length as a big block Chevy and apparently the 928 heads can be made to fit on a big block.
That is interesting. The 4 valve DOHC heads?
I know the 4 valve heads on the 4.0 will bolt right onto the V12. But when the factory did it there wasnt enough gain to offset the increased weight up high.
Yup indeed apparently guys have used the dohc ones. They are not particularly common heads to find which is why there isant many conversions.
frenchyd said:
In reply to Racingsnake :
Not a street car recipe. Stock it has 262 DIN net hp. A 454 post 1973 has 230 net Hp In England without the pollution stuff we have ( and 12.5-1 compression instead of our 11.5-1 compression. it's 299 There is an easy 80 horsepower on top of that basically for pocket change*
If you buy a 6.0 and tune it to British spec's you're at 346 DIN net with the same 80 horsepower gain potential.
The first change is camshafts. The British Piper & ( I forget) have some very good ones that are worth +150 hp. ( stock it's only 3/8ths lift at the valve with really short duration.) Isky and Crower* (Crower did all of Group 44's racing camshafts and port work) will regrind your camshafts and get you closer to the Chevy lift and duration. But only give you about 100 horsepower.
* realize the Jaguar was designed and tuned for ride comfort and quietness. ( and improved fuel mileage) To impress Royalty and VIP's rather than hot rodders / racers.
Up until now the engine hasn't been taken apart. Swapping cams on overhead valves can be done in 1/2 the time it takes to do a Chevy. Basically pop the valve covers off and unbolt them.
In a stock body it still won't feel thst exciting. The XJS weighs 46xx pounds. ( up there with a Cadillac). And it will do an actual 150 mph. Because it has a 2:88 final drive. Dana 44.
To smoke the tires. Swap rear ends with the later 1993-97 rear ends. 3:54 Dana 44. Unless you like going 150 mph on the street.
The stock transmission is a GM turbo 400 ( with Jaguar bolt pattern). As you know that's a pretty good transmission.
But it's really simple to swap to a Chevy bell housing if you want a manual transmission. ( which really improved the car). At this point you're at about 530 horsepower with simple work. You have only spent about $1000 to get here. Plus whatever you pay for the 6.0
Ask again if you want to get to 650+
How do you "just tune" a 6.0 to British specs?
Ontop of removing pollution control devices, the cams cost less than $1000?
So if I'm reading correctly:
Step 1 - Buy 6.0 and tune it (how) to British specs = 346 DIN Net horsepower (hp)
Step 2 - Remove anti-pollution device (which ones?) -> 346 DIN net hp + 80 DIN Net hp = 426 DIN Net hp
Step 3a - Buy Piper cams -> 426 DIN Net hp + 150 DIN Net hp = 576 DIN Net hp
or
Step 3b - Get Crower or Isky to regind cams to unknown specs -> 426 DIN Net hp + 100 DIN Net hp = 536 DIN Net hp
Sounds amazing and easy.
I looked up Piper cam offerings for the Jag v12 and I found a few sets for $550 for their mild/fast setup but they noted it would provide only 20-25 hp. Their custom cams were over $3k. How much does Crower or Isky charge to regrind the cams? What about the rest of the valvetrain?
For 650+ hp I'd imagine it has something to do with punching the V12 out to almost 7 liters using tools in your garage and maybe a set of Chevy piston?
In reply to nlevine :
I said this earlier, it really depends on the club. Those guys with the 650 hp engines aren't legal. Just glancing I can see several things illegal. However some groups turn a blind eye to those issues. The events by invitation don't allow those entrants to race. So don't cheat if you want to go to Laguna Seca.
I know the tech inspectors see that but the protest has to be done by a competitor ( who in all probability is guilty of the same things) posting a bond covering the cost of a tear down.
If found guilty the penalty is fortiture of a trophy. See you at the next race.
This is a sport for gentlemen. One gentleman doesn't deliberately embarrass another. Instead the two meet and agree on what to do in the future. Often as not the "cheating" isn't about staying competitive. It's about reliability. The power achieved might be on the edge of failure so for the sake of reliability those aftermarket parts are allowed. So some things become de facto legal by private agreement.
Here is the exception. In 1986 the owner of Aston Martin had the factory freshen a very special version of the Aston Martin DBR2 . A meeting with with Henry Ford 2 regarding the sale of Aston Martin to Ford was set up in the Bahama's
The mechanics causally mentioned things they did. ( none of which would be considered proper ).
They also hired Sir Stirling Moss as a driver.
Steve Kline was there in his Devin Chevy ( called the Echidna ) wildly improved from its original 1958 condition. With two professional mechanics. Steve was a very good driver with years of SCCA Racing under his belt. As the owner of the only Chevy dealership in Minneapolis he had access to the best stuff Chevy had for racing. Well, watch the video.
frenchyd said:
In reply to yupididit :
That's what the Camaro's and Corvettes are making. If he wants to be at the pointy end of the pack. That's what is needed.
If he want's to be at the pointy end of the pack, the cheapest realistic way is to buy a car that is already at the pointy end of the pack. I don't care how cheap a 928 is, development is where the expense is. It's not the cheap or easy (or maybe even realistic) path.
yupididit said:
frenchyd said:
In reply to Racingsnake :
Not a street car recipe. Stock it has 262 DIN net hp. A 454 post 1973 has 230 net Hp In England without the pollution stuff we have ( and 12.5-1 compression instead of our 11.5-1 compression. it's 299 There is an easy 80 horsepower on top of that basically for pocket change*
If you buy a 6.0 and tune it to British spec's you're at 346 DIN net with the same 80 horsepower gain potential.
The first change is camshafts. The British Piper & ( I forget) have some very good ones that are worth +150 hp. ( stock it's only 3/8ths lift at the valve with really short duration.) Isky and Crower* (Crower did all of Group 44's racing camshafts and port work) will regrind your camshafts and get you closer to the Chevy lift and duration. But only give you about 100 horsepower.
* realize the Jaguar was designed and tuned for ride comfort and quietness. ( and improved fuel mileage) To impress Royalty and VIP's rather than hot rodders / racers.
Up until now the engine hasn't been taken apart. Swapping cams on overhead valves can be done in 1/2 the time it takes to do a Chevy. Basically pop the valve covers off and unbolt them.
In a stock body it still won't feel thst exciting. The XJS weighs 46xx pounds. ( up there with a Cadillac). And it will do an actual 150 mph. Because it has a 2:88 final drive. Dana 44.
To smoke the tires. Swap rear ends with the later 1993-97 rear ends. 3:54 Dana 44. Unless you like going 150 mph on the street.
The stock transmission is a GM turbo 400 ( with Jaguar bolt pattern). As you know that's a pretty good transmission.
But it's really simple to swap to a Chevy bell housing if you want a manual transmission. ( which really improved the car). At this point you're at about 530 horsepower with simple work. You have only spent about $1000 to get here. Plus whatever you pay for the 6.0
Ask again if you want to get to 650+
How do you "just tune" a 6.0 to British specs?
Ontop of removing pollution control devices, the cams cost less than $1000?
So if I'm reading correctly:
Step 1 - Buy 6.0 and tune it (how) to British specs = 346 DIN Net horsepower (hp)
Step 2 - Remove anti-pollution device (which ones?) -> 346 DIN net hp + 80 DIN Net hp = 426 DIN Net hp
Step 3a - Buy Piper cams -> 426 DIN Net hp + 150 DIN Net hp = 576 DIN Net hp
or
Step 3b - Get Crower or Isky to regind cams to unknown specs -> 426 DIN Net hp + 100 DIN Net hp = 536 DIN Net hp
Sounds amazing and easy.
I looked up Piper cam offerings for the Jag v12 and I found a few sets for $550 for their mild/fast setup but they noted it would provide only 20-25 hp. Their custom cams were over $3k. How much does Crower or Isky charge to regrind the cams? What about the rest of the valvetrain?
For 650+ hp I'd imagine it has something to do with punching the V12 out to almost 7 liters using tools in your garage and maybe a set of Chevy piston?
You didn't answer the question. What is your goal? Street or racing?
If you want 650 horsepower Ill assume it's for racing.
If you want simple I'll assume it's for street.
If Piper wants that much and you only gain 20-25 horsepower all they are doing is regrinding probably to something less than Isky's XM 2 grind.
So shipping them to England and paying import duty when they arrive isn't what I would do. The mildest. Cams I ever got are the XM3 and that was back when I knew nothing. The nice thing about a grind that mild is you are still inside the factory's shim sizes. Off the top of my head the factory goes up to .120. Which means the most lift you'd have would probably be about .380. Stock is .375
For performance gain you need to be in the .440 area. Plus a lot of duration. That means the shims you use probably should come from moss motors. I think, ( I'm in the bus right now) Moss sells up to .190 shim which means the lift would gain almost .100 with attending increase in duration.
Call Crower and see what they offer and how much they charge. I haven't talked to them in a while. But like I said they did the cams and port work for Group 44 so they probably have it down cold.
OK how do you tune a 6.0 ? Chassis Dyno.
But the stock EFI isn't adjustable. You'll need to go aftermarket. Micro squirt, mega squirt Maxx etc. and you'll need to change the fuel pump. ( external so it's easy). You'll want a Pump capable of 60 psi. Maybe a little more. Because you'll want bigger injectors capable of dealing with E85.
If like me you hate the British method of tucking the rubber hose into the fuel rail. Go to a junk yard and get a pair of Trailblazer/ Envoy fuel rails off the Atlas 4.2 , while you're there grab the throttle bodies. That way you can use Chevy injectors and just click everything together.
I'm a cheapskate I'll grab 2 sets of used injectors for a flex fuel V8. Preferably the 6.2 but it depends on your horsepower goal. If you've got one of those Cheap Chinese injector testers/ cleaners you can test, clean, them yourself. Or bring them over to a friends and have him clean and test them.
Rock Auto periodically has a sale on injectors and new ones aren't that much more but be sure you test them. They aren't GM.
Tyler H said:
frenchyd said:
In reply to yupididit :
That's what the Camaro's and Corvettes are making. If he wants to be at the pointy end of the pack. That's what is needed.
If he want's to be at the pointy end of the pack, the cheapest realistic way is to buy a car that is already at the pointy end of the pack. I don't care how cheap a 928 is, development is where the expense is. It's not the cheap or easy (or maybe even realistic) path.
Maybe you'd do it that way. And your whole generation. Then once you're up to speed with the pack you'll somehow figure out how to get to the pointy end?
That assumes you have the money.
The way my generation did things is they took what they had. Used it to learn the how's and why's of racing. And by the time they did that they knew how get up up to the front.
See, it's the spacer between the steering wheel and the seat that needs the most work.
Buying a go fast car and expecting to go fast in it is what happens to a lot of racers. Oh, they have mechanics for that stuff.
When you're underneath the car adjusting your own sway bars based on what you think. You'll probably get it right.
But the mechanic doesn't have the feeling you got. If the last time you Hollered at him for not adjusting it enough. This time he won't make that mistake••••••.
While you're under there you might raise the ride height a touch in front and open up the toe in.
You can do all that because you built it yourself. And know the nuts on the sway bar is a 1/2 12 point and the weight jacker is 7/8" plus better grab the 5/8ths for the steering arm
In reply to yupididit :
Well there is the cheap way and the expensive way.
The expensive way is to bring the crankshaft in to a crankshaft grinder who understands the crank he is working on is made of EN 40 B forging. That has been hardened after the machining was done. Have him offset grind the crankshaft from 2.300 down to 2.100. Then reharden the crank when finished
Then buy 12 ( if they are on sale buy 2 sets of racing Chevy connecting rods. 6" long. (stock is 5.7" 6" is commonly available.
Since I have several engines I'll pull the set of pistons from the early 1975-1980 v12 with the 7.8-1 compression pistons. If you move the pistons up the .200 and mill ( I think it's .112) off the top then you have to fly cut for the valves. My wood holder does that but you can give the piston MFG those numbers. If you're buying expensive new pistons.
Your compression is now 13-1 Oh
I neglected to tell you the big ends of the rods need to be narrowed but I forget just how much.
If you are having custom pistons made you can go from 3&1/2" bore to 3& 3/4 bore
But you'll need a bowl in the piston top I forget how many CC's I've got it at home But the bore will be 3.750 and the stroke is 2.950
The cheap way to get to the same power is put a pair of cheap turbo's on a stock 5.3 engine with waste gates set to 11 pounds
TR7
Reader
2/15/23 3:47 p.m.
dculberson said:
Several have raced Lemons over the years and they've been well above average reliability. The transmission is stout and the engines are well engineered. They hold up well to abuse but when things do break they're complex to repair. The "not mechanically inclined" caveat for your friend concerns me on that front. But if he can follow directions he can figure it out, it's just a machine.
They're not as cheap as they used to be for sure. Who knows if we'll see them at Lemons again??
I have never ran one, but have run with a couple on track. They do seem to hold up well, keep up with the pack, and sound glroius while doing it. At least one of the lemons 928s ran the auto and still got a good hustle out of it. Seemed like a lot of fun, I wouldnt turn one down if a deal fell into my lap (I also have 944 experience and no longer fear the demons of Porsche repair).
In reply to frenchyd :
I want the $8,000 650 hp Jaguar v12 formula. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
I listed what I understood to be the 500+ hp v12 for $1000. Though after you explained that I'll need to run a megasquirt or similar + the true cost of cams, it looks closer to $5k. $5k is still pretty good if your power figures are indeed verifiable.
I know someone with a Jag XJS v12 pushing almost 600 hp with a t56 behind it. It started as a 5.3. His price point was pretty high, way higher than you're telling us. He did most of it himself. His ls3 XJS is still faster and 2.5 times cheaper.
I just berkeleyed around and bought a m275 for $800. 5.5 v12 with 2 turbos; at least 510 hp and about 600 torques out the box. Hopefully in the next few years and $7-8k of money it'll be alive in my car. The right tune, fuel and cooling should get the torque above 800. It'll probably break my w108 in half though.
yupididit said:
In reply to frenchyd :
I want the $8,000 650 hp Jaguar v12 formula.
Exactly what I was looking for too. This would be for track days so it doesn't need to fit any class and doesn't have to be streetable so that should make things easier.
yupididit said:
In reply to frenchyd :
I want the $8,000 650 hp Jaguar v12 formula. Sorry if I wasn't clear.
I listed what I understood to be the 500+ hp v12 for $1000. Though after you explained that I'll need to run a megasquirt or similar + the true cost of cams, it looks closer to $5k. $5k is still pretty good if your power figures are indeed verifiable.
I know someone with a Jag XJS v12 pushing almost 600 hp with a t56 behind it. It started as a 5.3. His price point was pretty high, way higher than you're telling us. He did most of it himself. His ls3 XJS is still faster and 2.5 times cheaper.
I just berkeleyed around and bought a m275 for $800. 5.5 v12 with 2 turbos; at least 510 hp and about 600 torques out the box. Hopefully in the next few years and $7-8k of money it'll be alive in my car. The right tune, fuel and cooling should get the torque above 800. It'll probably break my w108 in half though.
Good for you. You've got a working formula. Anything you don't know you can learn. I know nothing about Mercedes except they are insanely expensive wildly complex and far past my understanding.
Except they aren't are they? There are great deals out there and if you want you can have that 800 horsepower car to have fun with. At a very low price point. Knowledge is power. The W 108 is probably a lot better than you think. Do you know how to measure things like torsional rigidity? Basically trying to twist the car and measure how stiff it is. Frankly I don't think you have to. Those German engineers took great pride in building strong cars. I think a w108 with that engine, a stout rollcage
Time spent trying to sort the suspension and brakes out I know you can make a fast powerful Mercedes cheaply.
Just like I can with Jaguars. Big engine, small light chassis. The formula has been around since I was a kid.
I'll stick with Jaguars over BMW, Benz, or whatever. Two reasons. 1 knowledge, connections.
As for the guy who has a lot more in his car than I'll have in mine? That's always going to happen. Different goals, different budget, different knowledge base. Plus how much did he buy and how much did he build?
Did you know that the early V12's had a 7.8-1 compression ratio? You can use those pistons in a 6.0 with the early heads to improve air flow and make more power?
That since 1975 until 1993 the 5.3 V12 had the same 262 DIN net power but compression varied from 7.8-1to 11.5-1 here in America. That every V12 camshaft from 1971. - 1997 has the same specs though they are listed differently. The similarities with the cast Iron 6 designed during WW2 fire watch camshafts are very similar. In fact cut a line off almost any Jaguar camshaft and it's the same. ( almost )
In the past I wanted to strip the EFI away. Now I'll use it. That's just knowledge. A lot I've learned right here. By asking questions, not listening to the neigh sayers. Reading, figuring things out. The more of that you do yourself the lower your costs will be
In reply to frenchyd :
He was a retired machine shop owner in the northern Dallas area. He did most of the work homself, including the sleeve work. He's close to your age and very experience with the jag v12. I've seen y'all interact in the jag xjs forums
nlevine said:
In reply to frenchyd :
Curious as to how turbos are vintage eligible (kind of goes with my early question on configuration). I would think you'd need to show some precedence that they were used back in the day...
Phew. Have you ever got the wrong idea. When the race is over everybody is busy loading up and going home. A lot of the trophy's aren't even picked up. There is no news conference or interviews.
Tech inspector has probably left. If he's hanging around he might be 3 sheets to the wind.
The cash bond posted for a protest is what it costs in time and parts to take it apart , and put it back together. That is the prime incentive to play nice.
I'm not saying it never happens but it's rare enough I've never seen it. 40 years I've never seen or heard of a protest. If it did? remove what offends and see you at the next event.
Usually what happens is two guys meet privately and say, hey Joe I don't think that XXXXX of yours is in the spirit of the rules. Here's why it should be and here's why it shouldn't. Some parts just aren't available anymore. The originals have been pretty much all used up. Blah blah blah. If you know what to look for most cars really don't comply. Then there is the gray area. Tool room copies of some cars like Bugatti , Cobra's, etc etc exist. Or in my case a tribute car Painted the same colors and with the same flairs etc. but EFI instead of Webers. Etc.
Then there are the never were's They are out on the race track but never were in their past. Just an old sports car used to enjoy racing with other old race cars
If I tuck away a couple of turbo's instead of spending a lot of money? Well, I'd be careful not to win. Not to offend those properly following the spirit of the rules. Drop out a lap before the checker. Heck it would be bad form to deny someone who does follow the rules their moment.
This is a sport for gentlemen. No prize money, no glory. The right crowd and no crowding.
Now I'll never get an invite to Laguna Seca or Goodwood. But as long as I play nice. They'll let me play.
